A van’s water system is simpler than the electrical side: a pump, tanks, sink, some PEX. And it’s well worth the build, because running water (and optionally a hot shower) draws the line between “van camping” and “vanlife“! We’ve now built two vans:
FarOutVan 1
Super simple yet very functional
- Single fresh tank (interior)
- Portable grey tank (undersink)
- Sink (no hot water)
- Exterior hot shower (propane)
FarOutVan 2
All the amenities
- Dual fresh tanks (interior & exterior)
- Dual grey tanks (portable & exterior)
- Sink (with hot water)
- Interior hidden hot shower
- Electrical + coolant-fed water heater
This guide covers the design fundamentals that apply to both vans. The full installation walkthroughs live in the FarOutVan 1 Installation (bottom of this page) and our FarOutVan 2 water installation. Let’s build stuff!
Water System In A Nutshell
Main Components
Fresh Tank
Stores clean, potable water used for drinking, cooking, showering, and washing.
Fresh tanks are typically installed:
- Inside the van, in the garage: large tank (15-35 gallons), less subject to freezing than outside.
- Inside the van, below the sink: small portable water jugs – can be filled almost anywhere, but more often, are less subject to freezing than outside.
- Outside the van, under the floor: often installed in lieu of the spare tire – subject to freezing.
FarOutVan 1 had a single 25-gallon tank inside, above the wheel well. FarOutVan 2 has two: a wheel-well tank in the garage and a 24-gallon spare-tire tank under the floor.
Grey Tank
Collects relatively clean wastewater from the sinks and shower.
Typical grey tank installation:
- Small portable water jug under the sink: easy to empty, but more frequently – less subject to freezing than outside.
- Outside the van, under the floor: large tank more subject to freezing.
We’ve used a 4-gallon Aqua-Tainer under the sink in both vans, and FarOutVan 2 adds a 10-gallon tank under the floor.
Black Tank
Exclusively for toilet waste. It contains human waste and toilet paper, requiring specific chemical treatments.
We personally avoid black tanks in our vans, because we prefer to use composting toilets.
Water Pump
Maintain pressure in the system at all times.
We like to use a diaphragm water pump, because it’s pressure-activated; there is no ON/OFF switch. When the pressure drops (a faucet is opened), the pump senses it and starts pumping to restore pressure, continuing until the full pressure is restored. From a user perspective, it’s exactly like using water in a house.
Accumulator
(optional)
Creates a pressure buffer, thus reducing the pump’s cycling and pulsation.
An accumulator is optional with most modern diaphragm pumps, but we much prefer to use one because of the reduced cycling and pulsation.
Water Heater
(optional)
… heats… water… You guessed it!
In FarOutVan 1, we kept it simple with an instant-hot shower system outside, in the back of the van. Our sink didn’t have hot water at the faucet, so we heated water with a kettle on the stove. Simple, and we lived full-time like that for four years.
In FarOutVan 2 we have a “central” water heater, and each appliance is connected to it.
Simple Water System
FarOutVan 1
Sub-Systems:
- Water TankClass A Customs T-2500-SPAmazon
- Water PumpShurflo 4008-101-E65, 3.0 GPMAmazon
- AccumulatorShurflo 182-200, pre-pressurizedAmazon
- SinkDometic SNG 420, round, glass lidAmazon
- Bike WashAmazon
- Water HeaterCamplux AY132 portable tankless, 1.32 GPMAmazon
- Aqua-Tainer (7 Gal)Reliance Aqua-Tainer, pack of 2Amazon
Tank:
- Water TankClass A Customs T-2500-SPAmazon
- Hose Barb Adapter1/2"-14 NPT (M) to 3/8" hose barbAmazon
- Clear Vinyl Tubing3/8" clear vinyl tubingAmazon
- Test PlugAmazon
- PEX to MPT AdapterSUNGATOR 1/2" PEX x 1/2" MPT×2Amazon
- Ball ValveSharkBite 1/2" PEX barb x barbAmazon
- Hose Barb Swivel AdapterShurflo 1/2"-14 NPT (F) x 1/2" hose barbAmazon
- Braided Vinyl Tubing1/2" braided vinyl tubingAmazon
Pump:
- Pump Silencing KitShurflo 94-591-01Amazon
- StrainerShurflo 255-313 twist-on pipe strainerAmazon
- Water PumpShurflo 4008-101-E65, 3.0 GPMAmazon
- AccumulatorShurflo 182-200, pre-pressurizedAmazon
Main Line:
- Pump Silencing KitShurflo 94-591-01Amazon
- PEX to MPT AdapterSUNGATOR 1/2" PEX x 1/2" MPTAmazon
- PEX TeeSharkBite 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2"Amazon
- PEX TubingSharkBite 1/2" blue PEX-B, 100 ftAmazon
- PEX to FPT Swivel AdapterSharkBite 1/2" PEX x 1/2" FPTAmazon
- End CapOrbit 1/2" FPT capAmazon
- SinkDometic SNG 420, round, glass lidAmazon
- Ball ValveSharkBite 1/2" PEX barb x barbAmazon
Bike Wash:
- PEX TeeSharkBite 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2"Amazon
- PEX TubingSharkBite 1/2" blue PEX-B, 100 ftAmazon
- Bend SupportXFITTING 1/2" PEX 90-degree, with nail tab, pack of 2Amazon
- PEX to FPT Swivel AdapterSharkBite 1/2" PEX x 1/2" FPTAmazon
- End CapOrbit 1/2" FPT capAmazon
- Bike WashAmazon
Water Heater:
- PEX TeeSharkBite 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2"Amazon
- PEX TubingSharkBite 1/2" blue PEX-B, 100 ftAmazon
- PEX ElbowSharkBite 1/2" x 1/2"×2Amazon
- Ball ValveSharkBite 1/2" PEX barb x barbAmazon
- PEX to FPT Swivel ElbowSharkBite 1/2" PEX x 1/2" FPTAmazon
- Water HeaterCamplux AY132 portable tankless, 1.32 GPMAmazon
Gray Water:
- Sink StrainerJR Products 9490-215-022Amazon
- Sink Drain HoseCamco flexible drain connectionAmazon
- Y Valve2-way garden hose splitterAmazon
- Quick-Connect FittingHQMPC brass, 3/4" GHT, 2 setsAmazon
- Hose (5/8" x 6')×2Amazon
- Aqua-Tainer (7 Gal)Reliance Aqua-Tainer, pack of 2Amazon
Shopping list
Complete Water System
FarOutVan 2
Sub-Systems:
- Main Tank (32 Gal)NW Conversions wheel well tankVanlife Outfitters
- Spare Tire Tank (24 Gal)NW Conversions spare tire tankVanlife Outfitters
- Water PumpShurflo 4008 RevolutionAmazon
- AccumulatorShurflo 182-200Amazon
- Water HeaterIsotemp Spa 15LVanlife Outfitters
- Exterior Gray Tank (10 Gal)Curious Campervans undermountCurious Campervans
- Interior Gray Tank (4 Gal)Reliance Aqua-TainerAmazon
- In-Floor Shower PanTecVan shower panTec Vanlife
- Sink & Pull-Out FaucetTecVan sink, 52″ faucetTec Vanlife
- Fill InletAquor RV city water inletAmazon
- Exterior Shower / Bike WashAquor RV City Inlet/OutletAmazon
- Shower ValveAmbassador hot/cold mixerAmazon
Main:
- Water PumpShurflo 4008 RevolutionAmazon
- AccumulatorShurflo 182-200Amazon
- Sink & Pull-Out FaucetTecVan sink, 52″ faucetTec Vanlife
- 1/2" MPT x 1/2" PEX Adapter×2Amazon
- 1/2" Ball Valve×4Amazon
- 1/2" Tee PEX-B×5Amazon
- Elbow 1/2″ MNPT × 1/2″ barb×4Amazon
- Diverting ValveMcMaster-Carr
- 1/2″ braided PVC hose×2Amazon
- 1/2" MPT NippleAmazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – RedAmazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – BlueAmazon
Water Heater:
- Water HeaterIsotemp Spa 15LVanlife Outfitters
- 1/2" MPT x 1/2" PEX AdapterAmazon
- 1/2" MPT x 1/2" PEX ElbowAmazon
- Stainless Steel Supply Line, 6inAmazon
- Stainless Steel Supply Line, 12inAmazon
- See "Drain – System" sub-system
Tank Fill:
- Fill InletAquor RV city water inletAmazon
- 1/2" MPT x 3/4" PEX AdapterAmazon
- 1.5" MPT x 3/4" FPT ReducerAmazon
- 3/4" MPT x 3/4" PEX ElbowAmazon
- 3/4" PEX TubingAmazon
- Label for Aquor RV City Inlet/OutletFarOutRide
Vent/Overflow:
- 1/2" MPT x 3/4" PEX AdapterAmazon
- 3/4 PEX Elbow×3Amazon
- 1/2″ MPT × 1/2″ barbAmazon
- 1/2″ braided PVC hoseAmazon
- 3/4" PEX TubingAmazon
Drain – Tanks:
- Reducer – 1.5" MPT x 1" MPT×3Amazon
- 1" FPT Ball Valve×2Amazon
- 1" MPT x 1" Slip ElbowAmazon
- 1" MPT x 1" Barb AdapterAmazon
- 1" FPT x 1" Barb AdapterAmazon
- Pipe – 1" Dia x 5" LongMcMaster-Carr
- Hose – 1" PolyurethaneMcMaster-Carr
- 1" MPT x 1" FPT Elbow×2McMaster-Carr
Drain – System:
- 1/2" Female Swivel x 1/2" PEX ElbowAmazon
- 1/2" PEX Tubing – White×2Amazon
- 1/2" Tee PEX-B×2Amazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – BlueAmazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – RedAmazon
- 3/4" PEX-B Tubing – White×2Amazon
- 1/2" Elbow PEX-B×3Amazon
- 1/2" Ball Valve×2Amazon
- 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/4" Tee PEX-BAmazon
- 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Tee PEX-BAmazon
Interior Shower:
- Shower ValveAmbassador hot/cold mixerAmazon
- 1/2" MPT x 1/2" PEX Adapter×2Amazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – Red×2Amazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – Blue×2Amazon
- 3/8" PEX-B Tubing – White×2Amazon
- 3/8" Elbow PEX-B×2Amazon
- 1/2" x 3/8" Reducer PEX×4Amazon
- 1/2" Ball Valve×2Amazon
- 1/2" Tee PEX-B×2Amazon
Exterior Shower:
- Exterior Shower / Bike WashAquor RV City Inlet/OutletAmazon
- Exterior MixerAquor mixing valveAmazon
- 1/2" MPT x 1/2" PEX Adapter×2Amazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – RedAmazon
- 1/2" PEX-B Tubing – BlueAmazon
- Label for Aquor RV City Inlet/OutletFarOutRide
- 1/2" Tee PEX-B×2Amazon
Gray Water:
- In-Floor Shower PanTecVan shower panTec Vanlife
- Exterior Gray Tank (10 Gal)Curious Campervans undermountCurious Campervans
- Interior Gray Tank (4 Gal)Reliance Aqua-TainerAmazon
- KUS SSS S5U (7″)Marine Parts Source
- Sink Drain DiverterForespar Y-valve, 1″Forespar
- Gray Drain ValveU.S. Solid motorized, 3/4″Amazon
- Shower Drain Elbow Adapter 1.25" BSP x 1" barb3D Print FileFarOutRide
- Adapter for 1" Trident Hose x TecVan Sink Drain3D Print FileFarOutRide
- Elbow 1.25″ MNPT × 1″ barbAmazon
- Tee 1″ barbAmazon
- Elbow 3/4" MPTAmazon
- 1/2″ MPT × 1/2″ barbAmazon
- 1″ hose (Trident #100 Flex)Trident
Shopping list
Fresh Water Tank
Fill Port
Gravity Fill
Typically, fresh tanks in vans are unpressurized, meaning they are designed to store water but not hold pressure (e.g. pressurized city inlet). Therefore, gravity fill is recommended.
FarOutVan 1’s fresh tank is gravity-filled, and it couldn’t be simpler. We don’t want our van to look like an RV, so we didn’t install an exterior fill port.
We simply insert the hose in the fill port, and flow can be shut off with the Camco Shutoff Valve Add-On:
The fill port is closed using this test plug:
We carry a 50-foot hose (lead free and BPA free) to fill our fresh water tank. If we had to start over, we might consider carrying two 25-foot hoses, because 25 feet is what we need 95% of the time and using a longer hose slows down the process (more length adds flow restriction). So for the rare cases when we need over 25 feet, we could connect the two hoses together…
A gravity fill hatch inlet can also be installed to “relocate” the fill port:
Pressure Fill
Pressure fill is typically the “city water inlet” found on RVs. Once the tank is full, pressure will build inside the tank (assuming the overflow port doesn’t allow as much water OUT as water IN).
FarOutVan 2 utilizes the Aquor RV City Water Inlet. These inlets are popular for a reason: they feature a quick-connect with a valve that’s super easy to use. To minimize pressure buildup in the fresh tank, we used 3/4″ PEX tubing.
For FarOutVan 2, we found the neat Zero-G hose which is WAY more compact than FarOutVan 1’s Camco hose. We carry a 25-ft hose on the Rear Door MOLLE Panels for quick access (attached with a 3D Printed Holder for Zero-G Hose that we designed), and we have another 25-ft hose in the water cabinet in case we need 50-ft:
Water Pump Port
The outlet that feeds your water pump. It’s usually on the front or back of the tank, at the bottom edge.
Most tanks have 1/2″ NPT female outlet ports, so a 1/2″ NPT male fitting is required (check with your brand/model to make sure).
On FarOutVan 1, our tank’s pump port was at the rear; the tanks we suggest below have all their ports on the same side.
Drain Port
The outlet used to empty your tank (between trips, winterizing, etc.). It’s usually larger than the other ports, to allow more flow. In FarOutVan 2, the wheel-well tank drains into the spare-tire tank below, which has its own drain valve.
Vent Port
When pumping water out of the tank, or filling it, the water volume removed must be replaced with air (and when filling, the displaced air must escape). That’s the role of the vent port. To prevent water from coming out of the vent port (when braking or on steep or rough roads, for example), we connected a hose to the vent port and installed it about 15 inches above the tank.
The tanks we recommend (see “Water Tanks” table below) have 1/2″ NPT female vent ports (so a 1/2″ NPT male fitting is required).
See the Fill Port section above for a picture.
Fresh Tank Size
It totally depends on your usage and how many days of autonomy (without having to fill) you want. As a rough guideline and to help you make your calculations, here was our usage when we lived full-time in FarOutVan 1:
- One shower (one person) uses a little less than 3 gallons of water (that’s being very careful not to waste water, i.e. turning the shower off when soaping, etc.).
- We dumped 2-4 gallons of grey water from the sink every day (we cooked a lot, so we washed a lot of dishes; you might dump less than that).
That being said, we filled our 25 gallon tank every 4-5 days in summer (depending on showers). Every 7-10 days in winter (we showered in aquatic centers or gyms and tried to fill our 1L water bottles as often as we could in public places).
When choosing the size of your tank, remember that water is not a luxury, it’s essential! Having to search for water frequently is no fun, so make sure to select a tank that gives you plenty of autonomy!
Fresh Tank: Inside or Outside the Van?
By installing our tank and plumbing inside the van, we can use our system even during skiing season, nice! We tested it in temperatures as low as -24F (-31°C). Of course, having the tank inside occupies precious space in the garage, but that’s a compromise we are happy to make.
If we were to use the van exclusively in summer, we might consider installing our tank outside the van, underfloor. Installing the tank underfloor frees garage space AND improves the van handling because it lowers the center of gravity.
If we were to start over, now that we know that we use much less water in winter, we would consider installing a tank inside the van AND a tank outside the van. The idea is to maximize water capacity without occupying too much space in the garage:
- In summer, we would use both tanks (extra capacity for showers).
- In winter, we would winterize the outside tank and use only the inside tank.
- Remember, this extra precaution is because we use the van in below-freezing temperatures! If that’s not your case, there’s probably no point in doing this.
- That’s the setup we went with in FarOutVan 2: a wheel-well tank inside and a spare-tire tank outside (details below).
More water tanks here:
Wheel Well & Spare Tire Tanks
Wheel well & spare tire water tanks are a thing now, and we wish that option existed when we built FarOutVan 1! FarOutVan 2 has both: see how we installed them.
Space Optimization
Decrease the waste of space, increase the living/storage space. That’s the name of the game when building a van!
Lower Center of Gravity
The fresh water tank carries a significant weight; lowering the center of gravity will improve the handling of the van.
Simpler Installation
No need to build a raised shelf to clear the wheel well.
Models
There are also a few other interesting van-specific options:
Ford Transit
Sprinter
ProMaster
Grey Water Tank
Portable Interior Tank – FarOutVan 1 & 2
Pros
- Portable = Easy to dump
- Interior = less subject to freezing
- Simple installation
Cons
- Small-ish = Dump more frequently
- Collect water from sink only
- Occupy storage space
1. Aqua-Tainer
We use a 4 gallon Aqua-Tainer, but a 7 gallon works too.
2. Aqua-Tainer x Garden Hose Adapter
Aqua-Tainer threads are proprietary, and we couldn’t find a fitting for them, so we designed and 3D printed our own! Buy in our Store.
3. Garden Hose Quick-Connect
4. Camco Sink Drain
Easy flexible sink drain. Buy on Amazon.
5. 2-Way Valve (optional)
To divert water into the grey tank, or through the floor. Buy on Amazon.
6. Garden Hose
Through-floor drain. Buy on Amazon.
Permanent Exterior Tank – FarOutVan 2
Pros
- Large = Dump less frequently
- Collect water from sink + shower
Cons
- Exterior = subject to freezing
- Complex installation
The underfloor grey water tank installation is documented here:
Grey Tank Size
That depends on how often you don’t mind having to empty it. As a guideline, we empty our 4 gallon grey water tank almost every day:
- Washing dishes is what uses the most water. We cook a lot, so we wash a lot of dishes! You might get less grey water than we do.
- If we use our hole-in-the-floor, we don’t have to empty our grey water tank every day…
Grey Tank: Inside or Outside?
Because we use the van for skiing in winter, we had to install our grey water tank inside the van so it doesn’t freeze. It uses some space under the sink, but we’re happy that we can use our sink during winter!
The lowest temperature we have experienced so far is -31°C (-24F), and we could still use the water system! 🙂
Black Water Tank
We don’t have a black water tank and we don’t need to search for RV Dump Stations. Neat! How is that? Because we installed a Nature’s Head composting toilet. And we’re SO GLAD we did! We talk about our composting toilet here (how it works, how it’s emptied, what frequency, etc.):
Water Pump
Diaphragm Pump
A diaphragm pump keeps the water system pressurized at all times. It means having running water just like at home in a house.
The pump has no on/off switch. It starts automatically when the pressure drops, and it shuts off automatically when the appropriate pressure is reached. For example, using the sink (or shower, or whatever) creates a pressure drop; the pump senses it and runs until the pressure goes up again.
One of the most common and reliable diaphragm pumps out there is made by Shurflo. We’ve used the Revolution 4008 in both vans, each time with Shurflo’s silencing kit:
Shurflo Revolution 4008
- Shut-Off Pressure: 55 PSI
- Re-Start Pressure: 40 PSI
- Recommended Fuse: 10 amps
- Flow: 3 Gallons Per Minute
Connecting The Pump
The Shurflo Revolution 4008 has one 1/2″ NPS male inlet and one 1/2″ NPS male outlet. Because the pump produces quite a lot of vibration, it’s better to connect the pump using flexible pipes. We recommend using the Silencer Kit from Shurflo:
It’s also a good idea to install a strainer at the inlet port of the pump, so debris can’t find its way through the pump and damage it:
We connected the silencer to the strainer with this fitting (to save some space):
Electrical Wiring
By now, we understand that a diaphragm pump doesn’t require an ON/OFF switch… However, we recommend adding one to manually shut the pump off. It’ll prevent the pump from running indefinitely when the fresh water tank runs empty (it’ll happen!).
The pump has to be connected to the electrical system. Don’t worry, we also have a guide for that 🙂
Manual Pump
To keep things really simple and to save on electricity, a manual pump can be installed (we went with a pressurized system in both vans, so we haven’t used one ourselves):
Hand Pump
Foot Pump
Accumulator
If installing a diaphragm pump (like the Shurflo we recommend), you might consider adding an accumulator. The accumulator contributes to longer pump life, less noise, less amperage draw, and reduced water pulsation. It also reduces cycling (the pump starts less often), nice.
Per manufacturer: “The most efficient use of the accumulator occurs with the accumulator pressure set at the same pressure as the pump’s re-start setting.” (Hint: it’s 40 PSI for the Shurflo Revolution 4008 pump). We tested different pressures, and we prefer to set it to 30 PSI as the water volume capacity is greater at that pressure (therefore, the pump cycles less).
The pressure can be checked with a normal tire gauge (you have one in your glove compartment, right?) and adjusted with a bike pump (it’s a Schrader valve), it’s super easy. When checking or adjusting pressure, just remember to turn off the pump and to open the sink faucet (this is to read the static pressure). The accumulator comes unpressurized.
Shurflo Accumulator
Sink
For Pressurized System
Pretty much any sink will do. We have the Dometic VA7306AC sink in FarOutVan 1 because it’s compact, foldable and looks great. If your counter space is limited, it’s a great way to optimize it. The only downside we found is that the foldable faucet is in the way when washing/rinsing large items (such as full size plates or pots/pans); we wish it was located further back so we didn’t have to swing it around.
Edit: Looks like the Dometic sink we used is no longer sold. We installed the TecVan sink in FarOutVan 2:
Tec Vanlife
This is the sink we installed in FarOutVan 2. It looks super classy, functional, and also converts into a shower head!
- 52″ extra-long pull-out head (see demo in video).
- Made from 3mm stainless steel coated with a thick layer of oil-free nanotechnology coating resistant to staining.
- Removable cover (can be used as a cutting board!).
- Cold & hot water fittings: 1/2″ NPT.
- Drain size: 1-1/2″ fitting (strainer not included).
- Exterior dimensions: 450mm x 390mm (17.72″ x 15.35″).
- Interior dimensions: 380mm x 347mm (14.96″ x 13.66″).
- Cutout: 420mm x 360mm (16.54″ x 14.2″).
- Depth: 230mm (9″)
For Manual Pump
If going for a manual pump, keep things simple!
Spout
Sink
Hot Water
Nope: Just a Kettle
We didn’t have hot water at the sink in FarOutVan 1, and we were OK with it: we just used our kettle to heat water. That’s the most economical way (water and gas) for sure! The most annoying part was that it’s not really practical to rinse the dishes with the kettle, so we rinsed them with cold water, which made drying the dishes more difficult. For everything else, we didn’t mind.
Kettle With Thermometer
Electric
The Ariston Andris Mini Tank Water Heater is a simple electric option for a van. It comes in 2.5-gallon, 4-gallon, or 8-gallon tank capacity, plugs into a 120V AC outlet, and is rated for 1,400W (2.5-gallon) or 1,440W (4-gallon). We didn’t go this route: in FarOutVan 2, the Isotemp below covers the 120V side at 750W instead of ~1,400W.
Pros:
- Easy to install
- Affordable
Cons:
- Not designed for a mobile application (could get damaged by vibration)
- No drain valve (winterization)
- 1,440W heats fast, but can overload your electrical branch if used simultaneously with another 120V appliance.
Electric & Coolant (Hybrid)
The Isotemp Spa (by Indel Webasto) is a fantastic option. It comes in 4-gallon, 5.3-gallon, or 6.5-gallon. It works on 120V AC (750W), from the vehicle coolant (VERY efficient), or both. This is what we installed in FarOutVan 2 (Spa 15L): on 120V, heating the full tank took 1 h 21 min at 726 W average, and driving brings it back to temperature in roughly 20–30 minutes.
Pros:
- Easy to install (electric only)
- Designed for mobile applications (vibration, very robust)
- Features a drain valve (easy to winterize)
- Excellent tank insulation (will stay hot without a heat source for a long time)
- If connected to the vehicle coolant, VERY energy efficient (“free” heat while driving)
- 750W-rated = won’t overload the electric branch (can be used simultaneously with other appliances).
Cons:
- Higher cost upfront
- More complex installation if connected to the vehicle’s coolant.
Propane
Tankless (On-Demand)
As the name suggests, a tankless water heater has no tank. Water is heated instantly on-demand, so it can provide a continuous flow of hot water. It’s super-efficient since it doesn’t have to keep water hot all day.
This is what we used for the first 10 months in FarOutVan 1. But then we realized we don’t need to have a portable system. It is quite bulky and cannot be integrated into our water system. So we decided to try something else…
We used the Eccotemp in FarOutVan 1 from 2018 on, and we were super happy with it. It’s good, cheap, and easy to install. It can be integrated into a pressurized system, it’s not bulky, and the water is surprisingly HOT.
With Tank
Atwood (now part of Dometic) has a wide range of water heater models, but the one that catches our attention is the G6A-8E model:
- Tank Capacity: 6 gallons
- Water Temperature: 100F to 150F
- Energy: Propane
- Recovery: 11.6 gallons per hour
- Dimensions: 16″ high x 12.5″ wide x 18″ deep
The G6A-8E is no longer sold. The closest current model is the Dometic WH-6GA (6 gallons, propane). Check Dometic’s website for all their available models: Dometic RV heating solutions
Dometic WH-6GA Water Heater
Diesel
If budget is not an issue, you might consider the Webasto Dual Top Evo. It’s an air heater (similar to our Webasto air heater installation) AND water heater combined. It works with diesel and has an integrated 11 liter water tank. Fun fact: it’s over $7K…
Webasto Dual Top Evo
Bike Wash & Exterior Shower
FarOutVan 1: Spray Faucet
Washing a bike uses quite a lot of water, so we obviously don’t use it very frequently. But there are some occasions where the bike wash is a real life saver; removing a layer of mud from the down tube by hand is no fun!
Now, can someone explain why Antoine is CONSTANTLY walking in dog poo while Isabelle is not??! We’re thinking of renaming it the “Dog Poop Wash” as it has become the primary use…
Exterior Spray Faucet
FarOutVan 2: Aquor Inlet/Outlet & Mixing Valve
Like many of you, we installed Aquor inlets/outlets and a mixing valve at the back of the van:
Bike wash, exterior shower, and fresh tank fill: Aquor RV City Inlet. Mixing valve = Aquor Mixing Valve.
Under the hood (FarOutVan 2’s Water Cabinet):
Pipes & Fittings
Pipes
Let’s get straight to the point, PEX tubing is what you want. We plumbed both vans with 1/2″ PEX-B, plus 3/4″ PEX on FarOutVan 2’s fill and vent lines.
- PEX tubing has become the standard for houses and RVs.
- It’s cheap and readily available in any hardware or RV store.
- It comes in red/blue color to differentiate the hot/cold sides (both colors have the same properties).
- It resists freezing (but fittings might crack, don’t let it freeze!) and high temperatures.
- It’s easy to cut, easy to connect, and easy to route (flexibility: 5″ minimum radius for 1/2″ diameter PEX).
- It won’t corrode.
- Note that PEX is NOT UV resistant and should not be installed under constant sun exposure.
PEX Tubing
PEX tubing can be cut with a carpenter’s knife, but a PEX cutter will make your life easier:
PEX Cutter
Fittings
Clamping
This is the method we recommend for permanent, leak-free connections. It’s easy, fast, fun (yep!) and there is very little chance of error. It’s also good to know that a clamp tool can clamp any ring size (as opposed to crimp). Here is how it goes:
- Insert the clamp ring on the outside of the PEX tubing.
- Insert the barbed fitting into the PEX tubing.
- Using the Clamp Tool, compress the clamp ring. The clamp tool will not release from the clamp ring unless a properly-secured connection has been made; therefore, a GO/NO-GO gauge is not required!
PEX Clamp Tool
For 3/8″ up to 1″ Rings
PEX Clamp Rings
1/2″
Crimping
Crimping is very similar to Clamping; a crimp ring is used instead of a clamp ring. Both methods give equally good results, except a GO/NO-GO gauge has to be used for crimping to ensure the crimp ring was sufficiently deformed. Crimping is the cheapest method for large projects. We clamped everything in both vans, so we never needed the GO/NO-GO gauge.
PEX Crimp Tool
For 1/2″ Rings
PEX Crimp Rings
1/2″
Compression Fittings
The disadvantage with clamp/crimp is that it might be impossible to operate the tool in tight spaces. In that case, you could use Flair-it compression fittings as they require no tool for installation. We personally haven’t tried them, but they’re quite popular in the RV industry. Flair-It fittings come in a variety of shapes and functions:
Push-To-Connect Fittings
Push-to-Connect fittings are almost too good to be true. Just push the PEX tubing into the fitting and voilà! …In fact, maybe they are indeed too good to be true. We tried them and when we pressurized the system, many fittings had slow leaks.
- Slow leaks are the worst because they’re hard to notice and could create damage in the long run… Why did we have a slow leak? The Sea Tech fittings rely on an O-ring that goes on the outside of the PEX tubing (not inside); the surface of the PEX tubing must be scratch and damage free. These fittings are “reusable”, but the action of disconnecting creates scratches on the outside surface of the tubing…
- O-rings dry and lose efficiency in the long run.
- Some people reported having no issue at all after many years, but we think they are too sensitive to install, to outside tubing surface conditions and to O-ring deterioration. We’re not 100% confident, so we pass (we would be OK with them for temporary repair or outside installation).
Threaded Fittings
For all threaded plastic fittings:
- Avoid Teflon tape: it acts more like a lubricant than a sealant, which makes plastic fittings easy to over-tighten (= cracks = leaks).
- Don’t over-tighten: finger tighten plus one or two turns.
- Use non-hardening, plastic-safe, non-toxic thread sealant (not lubricant). It’s a paste that does not dry and can be removed easily (not permanent).
- We did not use thread sealant on the Shurflo fittings attached to Shurflo appliances (pump & accumulator).
Thread Sealant
We used Blue Monster on our plastic threaded fittings. Compatible with plastic fittings (PVC, CPVC, ABS, Nylon). Non-toxic (OK for potable water). Non-hardening. See product info (pdf).
Winter
To Winterize
When water turns from liquid into ice, its volume expands by approximately 9%; as a result, water trapped in a rigid component (pump, valves, fittings) can crack it when it freezes.
In an RV, it is almost impossible to completely drain the water from everything. The best way to achieve this would be to use an air compressor to blow out the system, but it’s not guaranteed to work… That’s why most people winterize their water system with antifreeze.
Our water system, however, is quite simple; there are few components, and these components are all accessible. So it can be winterized by draining all the water and without adding antifreeze. Empty the water tank completely and, with the pump activated, open each faucet independently (sink, hot shower, bike wash) for a rough “pre-drain”. Disconnect the water pump, the accumulator, the hot shower (Eccotemp), and the bike wash. Water will come out, so have a large bowl and some towels ready! If you can, take all these appliances inside your house for the winter (hey, the removal should only take a few minutes of your time, it’s not that bad!). If removing them is not possible, blow out with compressed air to drain them well. Be extra careful with the hot shower (Eccotemp), it’s much harder to drain because of the heat exchanger (we’d really take this one inside the house for the winter…).
Or To Not Winterize
In FarOutVan 1, all our components (pipes, water heater, fresh water tank, etc.) were inside (warm-side), so we could use our water system ALL YEAR, sweet! We even used it when it was -24F (-31°C). We only took the precaution of winterizing the bike wash / shower at the back of the van; that area could freeze occasionally (it’s far from any heat source), so we drained it to avoid any risk.
Hacks for Getting Water
Water Bandit
To increase our chance of finding water while we’re on the road, we carry a neat Water Bandit. It can be fitted on almost any tap (thanks to the rubber side), then a hose can be connected to it (thanks to the “garden-hose-fitting”) on the other side. We’re using it occasionally.
Sillcock Key
Following this post, many of you recommended we get a Sillcock Key. Apparently, this tool can open water supplies at some rest areas, campgrounds, corner stores, etc. After a few years on the road, we actually only used it once, but we’re happy we had it!
Monitoring Tank Levels
Keep It Simple!
For a majority of people, monitoring the level of the tanks just by looking through them does the job. That’s what we did for the first year or so we lived full-time in our van; it worked just fine, and it’s the cheaper solution.
Simarine Pico
After a year or so living full-time in our van, we decided to upgrade to a fancy monitoring system. The Simarine Pico is not only sexy, it is also packed with cool features: battery monitoring, tank level monitoring, temperature sensors, inclinometer, etc. We appreciate the tank level feature (fresh tank, grey tank & Nature’s Head liquid tank) and the low/high level alarm. It would be hard to go back after getting used to it…
How to Sanitize the Water System
When we lived full-time in FarOutVan 1, the water was constantly refreshed (we filled the tank about every 4 days), so we sanitized it every six months. If you must leave your van alone for a week or two without draining the system, consider sanitizing before using it (especially in a hot climate!).
1- Prepare a Bleach Solution
- Use 1/4 cup of bleach for every 16 gallons of water in your fresh tank.
- Dilute the bleach in at least 1 gallon of water.
- Do NOT add the bleach to the tank without diluting it first!
2- Sanitize
- Add the bleach solution to the fresh tank and fill with potable water.
- Circulate water through the entire water system for about a minute (by opening the sink and other devices).
- Let it sit for at least 4 hours (overnight is better!)
3- Rinse
- Drain the fresh water tank and re-fill with potable water.
- Circulate fresh water through the entire water system for a few minutes.
- Repeat once more (drain, re-fill, circulate, drain).
- That’s it!
Bleach for common tank sizes (1/4 cup per 16 gallons, about 1 mL per liter):
| TANK | BLEACH |
|---|---|
| 10 gal (38 L) | 2.5 tbsp (37 mL) |
| 16 gal (61 L) | 1/4 cup (59 mL) |
| 20 gal (76 L) | 5 tbsp (74 mL) |
| 25 gal (95 L) | 6¼ tbsp (92 mL) |
| 32 gal (121 L) | 1/2 cup (118 mL) |
| 40 gal (151 L) | 10 tbsp (148 mL) |
Installation – FarOutVan 1
Below is how we installed our water system in FarOutVan 1.
For FarOutVan 2: Water System Installation – FarOutVan 2
Tank Installation
The tank is installed above the wheel arch:
The tank is secured with BoatBuckle Kwik-Lok Tie Downs 2″x4′ (Buy on Amazon). They’re super strong and easy to install/remove. They are attached to Stainless Steel Tie-Down “D” Rings (Buy on Amazon):
When the tank is full, there is a noticeable “bow” on the unsupported side of the tank; we therefore added a wood support to counterbalance the bow (the straps alone won’t help). Note that the wood support must go across the entire height of the tank (from bottom to top) to be effective (otherwise the strap will flex):
Water Pump, Accumulator & Plumbing Installation
Water pump & accumulator:
We built a “shield” for the pump and accumulator and installed the switch on it:
It looks like this with the “shield” on:
This is the tubing near the pump and the accumulator:
- Our tank has a water pump port at the rear; unfortunately this tank is not made anymore… The tanks we suggest have all ports on the same side.
- To save space, we used a Shurflo 90° elbow adapter fitting between the strainer and the silencer kit.
And this is the tubing where it splits toward the bike wash / shower:
Sink and Grey Water Tank Installation
The sink installation into the cabinet is covered in our Sink & Stove Cabinet article.
This is our grey water tank:
Meanwhile in China:
Bike Wash Installation
Hot Shower Installation
To connect the cold water (blue PEX tubing), we used a swivel-elbow adapter followed by an elbow (per our water diagram); this way the valve (which acts as the shower handle) is easily accessible and is routed around the propane valve (see also following picture for a different view angle).
When not in use, the shower head is stored using a Quick Fist Clamp mini (Buy on Amazon):
The shower head temporarily mounts in the window using a suction cup adapter (Buy on Amazon):
And that’s our exterior shower setup. We documented how we built our exterior shower.
If you’d rather have an indoor setup, see our hidden shower with in-floor shower pan in Van #2.
On Second Thought…
- October 2017: One month living full-time in the van! We talk about the water system in our “First Month on the Road” article
- December 2017: We modified our grey water system so we can dump water directly through the floor (or in the grey water tank).
- June 2018: We traded the Mr Heater BOSS for an EccoTemp (see justifications above in this article). We also re-plumbed our system using PEX tubing instead of braided vinyl tubing (because that’s the proper way to do it).
Hi Antoine, maybe a stupid question… but for a Kuuma heater installation, is it in order: tank- pump-accumulator- heater. Or, tank- heater- pump- accumulator…. Keep up the fantastic work you do guys. Serge Montréal.
I’m not familiar with the Kuuma heater, so I cannot really advise, sorry.
All the best,
Antoine
Hi,
Just FYI, I got the Tec Vanlife sink and the drain is not 1.5″, it is 2″ with some weird threading. I haven’t been able to figure out how to make an adapter from that to the Camco drain. The installation kit that comes with the sink has its own drain, but a weird slip on connector piece for the end of the drain hose. I might abandon the grey water tank and send it through the floor, not sure yet. But it doesn’t go easily with the other parts you have listed here.
Hey there, nice build! After several years full-timing, I’ve decided it’s time to get me a proper fresh water tank. Can you clarify for me
(1) do you use a filter?
(2) how do you get the bleach water into the tank (I don’t see an access port)?
(3) how do/would you drain it fully (usually there would be an inch or so left over after running the pump)?
Thanks!
Hi!
1) We don’t feel the need for it, but many people do use this one: https://amzn.to/3OJvMAG
2) We use a funnel into the fill port: https://amzn.to/3UzIMfX
3) We park the van on an incline, or if we really need to completely drain the tank we remove it from the van.
Hope this helps 🙂
Hi Antoine and Isabelle,
Your Dura Faucet bike-wash water pipe male connectors are 1/2″ NPS but it seems like the female connectors from your PEX line is 1/2″ NPT. Did I misunderstand or does this seem to work OK?
It’s working fine! NPS and NPT threads engage togheter, and for proper seal we used thread sealant (such as https://amzn.to/3SqhWUB).
I assume that you plugged the vent hole on the back of the waste water container and therefore the air vents through the hose to “China”. How is that working? Does is slow down the water draining from the sink since the water and vent air are moving through the same hose? I’m debating purchasing the Reliance water tank adapter for the same use.
Thanks,
Mike
Actually we just screw the back vent half-way, so that air can pass through. We never had water overflow from it (as opposed to what we initially thought), so it’s good enough for us!
I purchased a Aqua-Tainer 7 gallon jug and the adapter/reducer that you sell. As I’m assembling this I’m thinking that if I could thread a nipple into the bottom of the jug and attach a valve with a hose for emptying the jug it would sure make life easier. I’ve met with success in a similar situation using a brass bulkhead fitting (Amazon) and epoxying it through the penetration. I’ll try it and let you know how it works out.
Let me know!
Far Out Ride / Antoine,
First your website, build instructions, suggested products is amazing. I recommend your site to anyone looking to build out a van.
Not sure if this is the best spot but looking to winterize our van for some time and we live where there is snow and the van will be outside in the driveway. Do you reccomend getting a cover for the van and/or covers for the tires. We see them on RVs around our location (CO), but wondering your thoughts?
Thanks as always,
Eric
Hello again 🙂
Do you not have an air hose on your grey water tank to balance the pressure as it fills? Is this not an issue? Just installing mine now and it would definitely be easier to not have to add one. Thought I would check with you all! Thanks!
We don’t have one, we simply leave the cap (of the air vent) half-screwed. Never had a spill..!
Any smells from dirty dishes? Thanks
No, all good! 🙂
Have you ever considered having a system where you could collect the grey water from your shower (as well as sink) and use it to wash your bikes? This way you’re not using so much of your fresh water and you don’t need to carry so much. Outline concept: portable shower tray connected to grey water tank with pump, so you could still have outdoor showers. As long as no chemicals get into your grey water, you should be good.
I wouldn’t want grey water on my bike to be honest (soap scum or other crap), personally I don’t think it’s worth the trouble and complexity. I’ve seen all kind of recycling-shower systems, and so far I don’t want to get into them! Finding water never really was an issue.
Thanks for the excellent website!
I was wondering how you installed your grey water draining pipe through the floor, did you simply drill a hole down through the vinyl, wood, insulation and metal, or did you plan it in advance? Wondering if I should plan my floor holes before installing the floor insulation.
It’s best to plan ahead to prevent drilling through something important, but that’s not always possible right?!
So we drilled after the fact, through the insulation and everything. It can be done.
Thanks for your website! On the faucet on the Domestic VA8005 (single lever/handle that turns up and down), which direction is to open to allow water to flow out of the faucet, up or down?
Would you be able to share how exactly you wired the switch for the shurflow water pump
Hi! I’m not the articles creator but might be able to help. Switches are wired essentially as a ‘break’ in the positive wire. So you’ll have the black wire connect directly from your bus bar (or whatever the charge source is) to the pump, and then you’ll have your positive wire go from the bus bar to the switch, and then from the switch to the pump. This was confusing for me at first too because Switches often have a red/black wire but they’re both positive!
Hi! I’m not the articles creator but might be able to help. Switches are wired essentially as a ‘break’ in the positive wire. So you’ll have the black wire connect directly from your bus bar (or whatever the charge source is) to the pump, and then you’ll have your positive wire go from the bus bar to the switch, and then from the switch to the pump. This was confusing for me at first too because Switches often have a red/black wire but they’re both positive!
Hello!
Your Amazon link for the Shurflo water pump sends you to Shurflo’s 115V pump – P/N: 4008-171-E65. Can you run this 115V pump directly off the 12V battery system? Shurflo has a 12V pump – P/N: 4008-101-A65, would this one be better to purchase? Thanks!
Hi,
Unfortunately the links change constantly on Amazon. I just went ahead and fixed it, thanks for the heads up.
You definitely want the 12V version for your 12V system: Shurflo 4008-101-E65 12V Water Pump
Hey you guys!! Your build inspired me to take the leap and build my own:) For that I will always be grateful!!! I have been traveling in my van now for two years, and am wondering how you manually clean the Camco section of your drain system? Do you remove the whole thing, clean it with a brush, and reattach? Any products you recommend that work well? Thank you so much in advance!!!! 🙂
Yep this one gets messy!
We remove it completely and clean it with hot water, dish soap, and a brush similar to this: https://amzn.to/46HQ3hm
Happy vanning!
Antoine 🙂
I mightve missed it, but how are you pumping the Grey water tank out through the floor drain hose? Not sure if there’s a piece of hose inside the tank to draw from the bottom? How does the pump switch to draw from the Grey water without pumping it back through the whole system? Thanks!
Our grey water tank (4 gal) is portable. We have to remove it to dump it, that’s why we use a quick-release as fitting. 🙂
Ah I understand, thanks! So you can drain grey water directly from the sink through the floor drain OR into the grey water tank using the two way valves.
Any reason you switched from the braided vinyl tubing you were initially using (as seen in some photos) to the Shurflow Silencer kit? Did the braided vinyl tubing not reduce noise, or did it leak? Just wondering if I should go with the silencer kit or if any old tubing would do. Thanks!
We switched when we went from braided vinyl to PEX tubing.
Braided vinyl was secured with worm gear clamps, which is not ideal for vibration. And turns out PEX was super easy to install!
So I’d recommend PEX, as well as the Shurflo silencer kit.
Hope this helps,
antoine
Salut,
Buvez-vous l’eau de votre réservoir d’eau claire?
Merci 🙂
Oui, c’est ce que l’on boit! 🙂
Hi Antoine and Isabelle!
we are a group of italian students studying at the “Politecnico di Milano”, one of the best design university in europe. First of all we want to let you know how astonished we are while reading how precise and clear your amazing website is, it really shows how you’re in love with each other and with the thrilling life you choose to live.
By the way, we need you help! For an university project we need to know more about vanlife and your needs. We have to design a “new product or system for water saving and water managment for a better life” (like filtration products, and stuff like that), and we were wondering if you had any advice for that, something you wish you had for improving the quality of your vanlife.
We would really appreciate if you’ll have the chance to help us.
Wish you the really best
Davide, Giulia, Tommaso
[email protected]
Thank you for all the knowledge you have shared!
Can you talk a little about the venting of your Ecotemp tankless water heater?
I like that you have it permanently mounted, I do understand the back door must be opened during use.
Just curious what concerns you might have or precautions that need to take place to ensure safe operation. Thank you very much!
Mike
We did a review a little while ago, that should answer your questions (if not let me know!): https://faroutride.com/eccotemp-l5-review/
antoine
what was the total cost of the whole water system bought installing and the product like a total receipt.
Hi!
We have a breakdown of all the costs here: https://faroutride.com/cost-and-labor/
🙂