Webasto Air Top 2000 Heater Installation

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final

Webasto Air Top 2000 Heater Installation

The Webasto Air Top 2000 heater, thermal insulation & Maxxair Fan are the key elements to make our DIY camper van conversion comfortable during winter. The van will be used as a winter splitboarding basecamp, therefore heat & humidity control is critical.

The Webasto Air Top 2000 ST/STC is fueled from the main vehicle tank. Fuel consumption is low (0.03 to 0.06 gal/h), electricity consumption is low as well (1.25A to 2.45A on average, more during startup) and there is no humidity added in the van resulting from the combustion as opposed to propane heaters such as the popular Mr. Heater Big Buddy (Buy on Amazon).

 

*****

Webasto AND Propex, are both really needed?!

We didn’t add the Propex heater (faroutride.com/propex-install) because we needed more heat (more BTU); we added the Propex because we had some issues with our Webasto and we wanted a SOLID backup plan in case the Webasto fails again. Since then, we took some corrective actions on the Webasto (faroutride.com/webasto-install-new-burner) and our issues are gone; we’re in love with our Webasto again and highly recommend it 🙂

*****

 

We chose to install the unit under the passenger seat.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final
Final result: Webasto Air Heater installed under the passenger seat

 

 

TIME SPENT ON THE JOB: 20-24 hours* (!!)

* Note on the time: The Webasto installation is not rocket science; this is probably doable in 8 hours (some have claim to have done it in about 4 hours). Despite a good planning, the installation process was painful… We do not have a lot of tool and hardware in hand, so we had to make several trips to Home Depot and the Auto Parts store. In addition, we spent at least 4 hours just planning the routing: since we installed our unit under the passenger seat, we had to go across the van exhaust which is a very hot area and it made the routing more challenging. Another contributor to the long hours was the fact that there is not much space under the passenger seat (under the van), so we had to make sure the hole pattern would not fall into a frame. And since the access under the seat is so bad, the installation of the 4 screws, air intake, air exhaust and fuel line was VERY time consuming. That being said, the installation is solid and clean; we’re very satisfied with the final result!

 

TOTAL COST : 1500$ USD

 


DISCLOSURE:

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Buying through our product links is the best way to say thanks if we were of any help for your conversion! Thanks for supporting us and for keeping this website alive 🙂

 

Alternatively, you can visit our Say Thanks! page.


 

 

MATERIAL:

  • One of the following heater:
    • GASOLINE Webasto Air Top 2000 STC with installation kit and Rheostat Control (Buy on Amazon)
    • DIESEL Webasto Air Top 2000 STC RV with installation kit (Buy on Amazon)
      • Optional (but recommended!) MultiControl HD (Buy on Amazon)
      • This is the “RV” model: It can be switched to high-altitude mode on the MultiControl HD (neat!), comes with silencers and no “special” harness is required to connect the MultiControl HD to it.
    • DIESEL Espar D2 with installation kit (Buy on Amazon)
  • 1x Aluminum sheet 0.062″ thick (to make a flat surface) (free if you get it from a friend)
  • 3x Cross Nut 1/4-20 (optional to avoid drilling new holes in the van structure) (Buy on Amazon)
  • 2x Bolt M8x1.25 30mm length (to use existing tapped hole in the van structure (Buy on Amazon)
  • 1x Ford Gasoline Auxiliary Fuel Port Kit (10$)
  • 3/8″ I.D. Fuel Line 8′-10′ length (check your installation for adequate length) (15$)
  • 5/16″ I.D. Fuel Line 1′ length (connect from Auxiliary Fuel Port to 1/4″ fuel line) (3$)
  • 1x Heat Shield Sleeve 1″ diameter (¾” diameter would probably work) 36″ length (Buy on Amazon)
  • Primer
  • Kleen-Flo RustProof
  • Thinsulate (Buy on Amazon)
  • We learned the Webasto creates a lot of noise! We strongly suggest to also get the material to reduce that noise. Look at THIS POST (Air Heater Noise Reduction) to learn more!
Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Material
Well, this is a bit intimidating

 

TOOLS:

  • Drill
    •  2-3/8″ hole saw to cut the hole for the hot air vent
    • 7/8″ hole saw to cut the holes for combustion air intake/exhaust
  • Jigsaw (if you need to fabricate a flat doubler)

 

RESOURCES:

 

HOW WE DID IT*

*Disclaimer: we’re good, but not that much. Use these instructions at your own risks!

 

First things first, there are a lot’s of do’s and don’ts so make sure to read the manual that comes with the unit (see “Resources” links above).

 

1- Fit the Webasto Air Heater unit to the van

The seat was removed.

Van Conversion Swivel, remove front screws

Van Conversion Swivel, rear screws

 

The jack will be relocated somewhere else. The bolt holding the jack was trimmed flush.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, jack bolt trim flush

 

We located the Air Heater unit: it must be positioned so it does not interfere with seat base and with the structure under the floor. There is not much room under the van… we used existing fasteners and holes to help us make the correspondence between above/below floor location.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, under the van
Viewing from under the van. Not much room here… (this photo was taken after unit’s holes were drilled)

 

The surface on which the unit is installed must be perfectly flat for the gasket to work; we had to fabricate an aluminum plate to fulfill this requirement.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, aluminum plate

 

There are drilling templates provided in the manual, use them! Do not use the rubber gasket as a template, it is not accurate…

(see template in previous picture)

 

We tripled-checked the location of the unit and proceeded with drilling. Before drilling, we punched the holes center so the drill bit would not slide off center. As usual, we coated the bare surfaces with primer/paint/clearcoat for corrosion protection.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, drilling holes

 

We then sealed the holes/aluminum doubler with Silicone. This is important to prevent gas fumes from entering inside the van.

 

The unit is fastened with 4 lock-washers and nuts under the floor. The access is VERY limited, so we had to use a gear wrench:

Gear Wrench
Gear wrench on Amazon. Needs as little as 5 degrees to move fastener VS 30 degrees for standard box end wrenches

 

After securing the 4 nuts, we applied Silicone under the floor.

 

2- Route the combustion air-exhaust

We routed it toward the rear of the van near the passenger side tire.

Notes:

1- We couldn’t avoid a “low-point” in the exhaust routing, so we drilled 3/16″ hole to drain the water formed by condensation (this is per manual. Condensation water trapped in the exhaust will restrict the air flow and the heater will most likely experience carbon buildup in a short period of time). So make sure to add a drain hole wherever there is a low point!

Webasto-Exhaust-Condensation-Drain-Hole
It took less than 48 hours at -5F (-20C) to form these beautiful stalagmites!

 

2- About silencers: they increase flow restriction in the exhaust and having some issues with carbon buildup in our unit, we decided to remove the silencer.

Webasto-Exhaust-Intake
The exhaust is routed so the gas are dumped OUTSIDE the van edge. This is to avoid carbon monoxide from pooling under the van AND to ensure the exhaust gas does not get sucked back into the intake! We install a silencer at the intake, this will act as a dust filter so that the combustion chamber does not block.

 

3- Route the combustion air-intake

See picture just above!

 

4- Route the fuel line and the fuel pump electrical wire

We used 3/8” rubber fuel line to protect the Webasto fuel line and an additional Heat Shield Sleeve (Buy on Amazon) near the van muffler.

The fuel pump electrical wire is routed along with the fuel line.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel line routing

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel line shield

 

We located the fuel pump near the fuel tank (as stated in the manual). The fuel pump was attached using a Cross Nut fitted in an existing hole

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Cross Nut Fuel Pump
Fitting the Cross Nut in the existing hole

 

Cross Nut: get some, they will be handy throughout the whole conversion (this is what we used to secure the interior cabinets and stuff). The 1\4-20 .280 grip prebulbed type will fit in the existing Transit factory holes found everywhere inside the cargo area. We made a specific post about Cross Nut here (selection chart, how to install & tips).

PlusNut, Pre-Bulbed
1\4-20 .280 grip prebulbed Cross Nut on Amazon.com

 

 

 

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel pump

 

To gain access to the auxiliary fuel port, the tank must be lowered.

We drove the van until about 10 miles to empty (the tank is surprisingly lightweight at this point). Then we put a toolbox under the tank and removed the 6 screws holding the tank. No need to detach the fuel lines (they are flexible). We lowered the tank until we were able to detach the protective fuel cap on the auxiliary fuel port.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, lower the fuel tank
The (emply) fuel tank is fairly light weight

 

The Ford Fuel Port Kit can be purchased from a Ford Dealer, it’s about 10$.

The fitting was pre-fitted with 5/16” fuel line, then 1/4”, then the Webasto fuel line

IMG_20160723_072344-2

 


Update 2018: 

The arrangement above (5/16″ to 1/4″) could create fuel delivery issues (air bubbles) and the gasoline model is quite sensitive to that (resulting in carbon buildup maybe?). Therefore, we recommend getting a proper fuel line reducer from Webasto:

Webasto-Fuel-Line-Reducer
Molded Hose With Reduction, Webasto Part Number 1319718A

 

Thanks to Andrew for the tip!


 

Then we installed the fitting on the tank and connected it to the fuel pump

 

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel pump

 

Then, we connected the fuel pump electrical wires to the Webasto unit (the wires that are hanging out from the Webasto unit combustion air intake). The fuel pump has no polarity! In other words, there is no positive or negative to follow when connecting the electrical wires.

 

5- Secure the combustion air-exhaust, combustion air-intake and the fuel line to the unit using the provided clamps

Van Conversion Webasto
Yes, it is possible to attach everything despite the tight space!

 

6- Route the cabin hot-air duct and install the fitting

 

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, duct fitting hole

 

7- Install the provided protective screen to the cabin cold-air intake (as stated in the manual)

 

8- Connect the electrical harness to the air heater unit

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, electrical harness connection

 

EDIT: Before re-installing the seat, we recommend to add Thinsulate (Buy on Amazon) all around the seat base. We found that it helps reducing the fan noise (don’t expect it to completely go away) and it helps with thermal insulation. If you do, MAKE SURE NOT COVER THE INTAKE OF THE WEBASTO!

 

9- Connect the Rotary Rheostat (or any Webasto controller) to the harness*

*Different controllers requires different harness! Ensure you have the appropriate one or it will not work…

Webasto MultiController vs Rheostat
Webasto Rotary Rheostat and MultiControl (7 days timer)

 

10- Connect the harness to the power supply (red wire is positive, brown is negative)

 

11- Before testing the setup, the van fuel tank must be filled or the air heater fuel pump will only pump air…

 

12- Turn it on!

The unit requires 3-4 starts for the fuel to get pumped all the way to the unit, so we got 3 faulty starts before it actually worked. Also, when ambient air temperature is above 77F, the unit starts then shutoff immediately for self-protection…

 

If using the MultiControl 7 Days Timer, the device must be programmed first following these instructions.

 

That’s it! In your face, winter.

 

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final
Tadam!

 

STC vs ST model

The following is the result of our own research (with some help). It is not official information, but good luck finding official information…

Availability and technical support:

  • ST: Worldwide
  • STC: Not in North-America… (for now, but it’s coming)

What’s different? Found here:

“This product is the further development of the Webasto Air Top 2000 ST and has the same dimensions and technical characteristics. It also runs under the same legal operating licence as the Webasto Air Top 2000 ST. It uses the standard fuel pump DP42 as used in the Webasto Air Top Evo 40/55 heaters. A change of the applications when using the new heater is not required except for using ta different metering pump ad harness. The Webasto Air Top 2000 STC will ensure full W-Bus compatibility and full operation with the NEW SmartControl and MultiControl without using the Unibox. Can be used in conjunctions with the Webasto ThermoCall TC4, this Can also be purchased on our online shop.”

STC: Features and Benefits

The STC can be controlled with the new MultiControl.

 

 

ON SECOND THOUGHT…

  • On second thought, we would still install the heater ourselves BUT we would buy the ST over the STC to get technical support (until the STC is supported in North-America)…

 

  • February 1st 2017 update: Our heater had carbon buildup, which caused the malfunction. Carbon buildup after only 200 hours of use is not normal. We had our heater checked by Mellor Online and, after cleaning the carbon, it is supposed to be 100% functional. So there must be something wrong with our installation. Now let’s see what are the possible causes for carbon buildup:
    1. Incomplete combustion caused by Fuel/Oxygen mix ratio too rich (not enough oxygen).
    2. Combustion intake dust ingestion.
    3. Voltage issue.
    4. Dirty fuel.
    5. Fuel pump installed at incorrect angle.
    6. Short run cycles (It is recommended to run the heater for at least 15 minutes before shutting down).

    What’s our plan for each points above?

    1. Re-route exhaust so it dumps the gas outside the van limits, further away. We think that the intake was sucking the exhaust gas back in (therefore there was a lack of oxygen).
    2. Add an intake silencer (acting as dust filter).
    3. Voltage was checked by Mellor Online and is suppose to be fine. Nothing to do here.
    4. Add the Webasto fuel filter just before the pump.
    5. Our pump is installed per manual. Nothing to do here.
    6. We did that already.

    Hopefully this solves the issue.

    We will report back with long term results.

 

  • October 2017 Update: Carbon buildup issues came back. This time we installed a new burner insert and adjusted the heater for high-altitude. Full write-up here:

Webasto Air Top 2000 – How To Install a New Burner Following Carbon Buildup

 

  • 2017/2018 Update: No issues! Yay, heater worked just fine all winter! 🙂
  • February 2019: Still running fine, no issues!

 

 

Noise. Here are the noise sources we identified:

  1. Fuel pump “ticking” (or “clicking”)
    • Heard mostly outside, but also inside the van
    • irregular frequency, so this is quite disturbing
  2. Exhaust pipe
    • Heard mostly outside the van
  3. Intake pipe
    • Heard mostly outside the van
  4. Fan
    • Heard inside the van
    • Regular noise, does not bother us

Fortunately, there are ways to reduce the noise to a more acceptable level. We cover the modifications in this post here:

Webasto Air Heater Noise Reduction

 

If using the Webasto / Espar at high altitudes (approx. 5000 feet and more), there are some modifications to perform in order to prevent malfunction or lost of performance. See our post here:

Webasto / Espar: High Altitudes Usage

 

 

 

 

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ABOUT US

Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017 we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers and moved into our self built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!

 

 

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112 thoughts on “Webasto Air Top 2000 Heater Installation”

  1. Hi Antoine,

    Trying to think ahead for the heater (we won’t do it until fall), but how did you route the power and the thermostat? Did I seen the thermostat back in the middle of the van?? Seems you could come under the floor between the two sets or come down the passenger seat belt column.

    • It’s routed underneath the cabin carpet (there’s a small gap under the passenger seat base, wires can actually run through this). Power and thermostat are then routed in the driver-side wall up to our electrical cabinet (power) and up the wall near the bed (thermostat) (I recall we had to buy an extension https://amzn.to/2Y11KPN).

      Hope that helps!

  2. Was wondering if you kept running the unit once per month during the non winter months?

    I was talking to a rep and he told me to run my unit 10 minutes per month in order to prevent buildup of materials in the tubes. Did you guys have to do that or was it run and done all the way until next winter?

  3. Still spring here and then summer comes, no need to heat yet, so this is a long way off.

    But. Did you ever consider using a separate tank for the Webasto? Next Q: how much gasoline does the Webasto use per month in the winter? A gallon or two? Or 10?

    Basically, not excited about moving my tank about to install and then always have to remember to keep it half full for the Webasto to work.

    Critiques?

    • We can’t really measure the actual consumption, but I would describe it as “negligible”. From specs: 0.03 to 0.06 gal/h

      I think the main advantage of the Webasto is the fact that you don’t have a separate source of fuel… it’s easier to keep the tank above 1/3 than having to fill a separate tank in our opinion. But I guess it’s a personal thing.

      Cheers!

  4. Received my Webasto STC Gas kit today, and sure enough it included a steel plate with the holes cut out! Super simple to install.

  5. Thanks for the VERY informative site! As far as the Webasto fan noise, I was thinking that perhaps instead of the Thinsulate that you could try the self adhesive sound deadening mat, aka Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener (Noico is one brand).. same as is often recommended for van walls as a 1st layer to deaden noise.

  6. Do you know if the STC model is supported in North America now? I was considering installing the webasto in my ford transit build. However, I’ve only been able to find the STC model readily available online.

  7. Your write up has been super helpful, thank you for posting it. I have a dumb question- the wires for the fuel pump are sticking out of the air intake hole on my heater, and there is a slot in that tube, which makes me think that it’s how it was designed, but I don’t see anything in the manual (or online) to confirm this. Is that how they are supposed to run? Out of the side of that tube?

  8. Hi Antoine,
    To Follow up on my comment on July 18, I was able to get the part from Webasto through a dealer in Missoula and…
    it worked! It is a 90 that goes from the aux port size to the tiny fuel line size. I was skeptical. Second try it worked. No need to drill tank! It was a 23$ part but a huge headache. The part like you made wouldn’t work for me due to the cavitation (my guess) because of the different sizes of hoses getting reduced in size. I will email you a copy of the photo of it and you can post it.
    Thanks again for all the help!
    Andrew

  9. Hi Isabelle and Antoine!
    Super fast question; you mentioned (in some post) that you have been in places with -25C degrees, and I was wondering: for the gas line (if I’m not mistaken, your ST is Diesel, correct?) no issues with the low temperature? I was wondering mainly because I have some issues with the car during winter (-10C) and when I see that little line under the VAN..
    Let me know! 🙂
    PS: I loved your site! will help me a lot to build my VAN! (some day..)

    • Hey!
      We have the gasoline model. I believe gasoline and diesel have additives to prevent freezing in the winter; we had no issue with gas freezing.

      Have a good one!

  10. Your link to the Ford auxiliary fuel port kit doesn’t work. Do you have a part number? Is using the auxiliary fuel port still the best way to do it?

    • Just fixed the link. Thanks for letting me know.
      Using the aux port is the easiest way for sure; I’m guessing using the Webasto fuel port would be better but the tank would have to be drilled.

      Cheers!

  11. Are you still running the STC or did you switch to the ST? I think you were running the STC, and that’s why the US technicians couldn’t diagnose the issue? Was your fix to redirect the exhaust to the side away from the intake?

  12. Thanks! Webasto tech help here in the U.S. has their own parts listed for the aux. port connection for Transits. They seem to think that is the problem, since with a gas can I can get the heater to work. Sounds like the gas versions are sensitive to any small air gaps. They list the part numbers but I have to order through a large truck dealer here in town I hope! Luckily, it’s about 90 here and I don’t need it yet but trying to work the kinks out before the winter sets in. I will repost as I get this worked out as your site has been so very helpful. Cheers and if you two end up in Missoula, MT, the riding is fantastic and craft beers are wonderful. We own a house and you are welcome to visit.
    Cheers
    Andrew

    • Thanks for the follow-up. I would really appreciate if you could snap a few pictures of the installation with a short description on how to install the Webasto aux port. I’m guessing you will have to drill to tank? Just curious. Thanks! 🙂

  13. Hi there. I’ve used nearly the exact same parts as you have but I cannot get fuel to ignite the heater. I’ve dropped the tank again to re-check and tighten fittings and still no fuel to the output side of the heater. Is there any way to help prime the lines? Your site has been awesome and so helpful!
    Thanks,
    Andrew

    • It takes 3 or 4 consecutive starts to prime the line. Reset the error code and try again 3 or 4 times.
      If it doesn’t work, I suggest to disconnect the fuel line from the pump (on the side of the heater, not the gas tank) and attempt to start; is there fuel pumping? Yes? Then disconnect the fuel line from the heater and attempt to start; is there fuel coming out of the line? If yes, the problem is probably from the ignition…

      Hope that helps!
      antoine

      • Interesting. We just got back from a trip and I was wondering how common the error codes are. We got the F1/F2 regularly but it eventually it lit. So that is normal?

  14. For the connection fitting, did you run the fuel line all the way through until the bottom of the tank? Or is the ford aux connection point enough, and you do not need to run a fuel iine into the tank?

    • We used the Ford aux port; the factory straw runs until about the 1/3 of the tank. In other words, if your tank is below 1/3 full your webasto will suck air. But that’s fine with us.

      antoine

      • Oh wow thats useful to know. I just did the same thing with the aux port, it was such a pain to get off! The button you need to press is wedged between this plastic bar so you cant use pliers.

        It was such a long process to install, but your guide helped so much! Thanks again for your help.

      • One more thing, since it will be spring time soon, and there is no need for a heater, how often do I need to run it to ensure that it doesn’t break for 8 months of non usage? I figured since you guys have had it for about a year now you would know.

  15. Hey Antoine,
    How did you manage to secure the aluminum template to the floor? Even after you do that, due to the divets and the valleys in the metal, there will still be gaps. Did you use silicone to cover that V shaped valley?

    Also why do you say the plastic seal template is no good? I lined it up to the bottom of my unit and it looks like it matches. But using the paper template could work too, its just that I dont want to make mistakes with the measurements

    • If I recall correctly, the aluminum template is sandwiched between the heater and the floor (the template is not secured itself). There is a gap between the floor and the template; I used some silicone but I didn’t totally filled the V.

      You will get better results using the paper template; as opposed to the rubber gasket, it’s not elastic so it’s more accurate.

      Good luck!

      • Thank you, makes sense! The hardest part for me so far has been drilling the holes into the van. Ford makes some sturdy cars lol

  16. Thanks. What size barb is it from the 1/4 to webasto line? Did u use barbs on the connections from the pump to the webasto line?

    • Hang on, I didn’t get you right. I meant to say we used Fuel Hose Clamps, not barb. You just push the webasto fuel line into the 1/4 fuel hose and then put a hose clamp.

      Sorry for the confusion.

      antoine

  17. Antoine..in your picture with the ford fuel connection do you have a barb from the 5/16 hose to the 1/4 hose then another barb from the 1/4 to the Webasto hose or are the hoses just pushed inside each other?

    • There is a barb at each connection; if not, fuel could leak or/and air bubbles make their way into the fuel line:
      No barb, just fuel hose clamps at each connection:
      fuel line webasto

  18. Yeah I’ve seen that switch but I am actually talking about a setting to enable it in the multicontrol controller. If you go into settings on the multi control there is an option called altitude correction. You can simply turn it on and off via the mult control.

    I should get by webasto stc in a few weeks so I hope this setting is enabled in my controller.

  19. Did your multi control have an option for altitude correction? I was looking at the multi control manual below and it has an setting option to turn on altitude correction on page 21. I ordered a STC with multi control and am crossing my fingers mine is enabled.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwj1xKqA2-jZAhVK7mMKHV42A50QFggsMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdealers.webasto.com%2Fservice%2Ffiles_content.aspx%3FFiles_FileId%3D21585&usg=AOvVaw30-pSlVHjs3_rk0vITMzTD

    • It’s possible to order a stand-alone switch for altitude mode, so I inquired about that. I was told the only model that is compatible with that switch is the DIESEL “RV” model… so i’m guessing that unless you ordered that model, the altitude mode won’t work; but please prove me wrong 🙂

      Let us know!

  20. I’m having never-ending battles with what seem like the most basic tasks…. How did you attach the resilient and un-compressable intake and exhaust tubes to the underside of the heater unit? I’ve tried hose clamps. Those blow out before there’s remotely enough pressure to hold the pipe in place.

    • We attached them with … hose clamp. I’m pretty sure the clamps were included in the installation kit. If I remember correctly, they looked more heavy-duty than regular clamps. Maybe an Auto Part Shop would have them?

      Good luck!

  21. This has been quite the adventure.
    I have the heater installed, and spliced the electrical wires to extend them so they were long enough to reach the fuel pump. I’m still not able to get the unit to start though.

    If I disconnect the fuel hose between the pump and the burner I don’t see visible dripping, but I do get diesel on my finger if I touch the nozzle (so there is a small amount of fuel going through from tank to pump). I haven’t had any success getting the burner to start yet though.

    • You should definitely see drips of diesel.
      Have you try 3-5 times to start it? It takes a few consecutive attempts to prime the line.
      Also, sorry to ask, are you sure your fuel tank is above 1/3 full? If not, the pump will suck air not fuel…

      Good luck.

      • Yeah, the tank is completely full. I wish it was something that simple.
        Today I took a sipon bulb and tried to pre prime the line.

        Through process of elimination I worked back to where the fuel line inserts into the tank. I.e. I’m not getting gas when I try to prime it from there fuel line between there and the pump.. looks like I’ll need to drop the tank again and investigate.

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