Vanlife Insulation Guide: Make an Educated Decision

Vanlife Insulation Guide: Make an Educated Decision

Van insulation... welcome to the most controversial topic since the creation of #Vanlife! After years of passionate debate, Internet experts still can't agree on what's the best insulation for DIY van conversions. Let's take a pause from this emotional debate and do it our way: with theoretical analysis and real-life follow up.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.

Portrait

1- Jumping to Conclusion

We’re not fans of shortcuts and hasty decisions, but there you have it. After 2 winters of full-time vanlife at temperatures as low as -22F (-30C) and up to 95F (35C), we recommend to insulate your van with:

Thinsulate

We personally used Thinsulate in our van. It kept us warm, no mold, no bugs, since 2017. It’s SO easy to work with and there are no chemicals added (as fire retardant or bug prevention). We and our van, love it.

*International Shipping (Outside USA): Order the Thinsulate from eBay rather than Amazon.

That being said: knowledge is power! Make your own conclusion about van conversion insulation by reading the whole thing below…  🙂

2- Theory

2.1- Heat Transfer 101

The goal of adding insulation is to combat heat loss. Heat loss happens because of heat transfert (a.k.a. heat flow). Heat is always transferred from warm to cool and continues as long as there is a temperature difference; a larger temperature difference means more heat transfer potential.  There are 3 heat transfer mechanisms: Conduction, Radiation & Convection.

Credit: machinedesign.com

Conduction

Examples:

HOW:

Energy is stored in the vibration of atoms. More heat = more energy = more vibrations. The collision of atoms between each others transfer heat.

Insulating for conduction:

The more dense a material, the closer the atoms are from each others and the more they transfer energy to their adjacent atoms (by physically colliding to each others). Therefore:

Less dense materials are better insulator for conduction.

Radiation

Examples:

HOW:

Any hot (or warm) object radiate electromagnetic waves and can heat up other objets at distance (and therefore loose heat themselves). Energy is transferred through the electromagnetic waves, therefore thermal radiation can propage through vacuum (without the presence of matter).

Insulating for radiation:

A white shiny surface is poor at absorbing and radiating heat. It is therefore a good radiant barrier.

Convection

Examples:

HOW:

Heat is “transported” from one part of a fluid (or gas) to another by the bulk movement of the fluid itself. Hot regions are less dense, so they tend to rise and are replaced by cooler fluid from above. 

Insulating for Convection:

Insulating hollow structure (i.e. frames) and eliminating air gaps minimizes air movement and reduces heat loss through convection.

While heat transfer can be separated in 3 separate mechanisms, heat loss normally implies all 3 of them together. For example, a hot cup of coffee:

  • Heat is transferred from the liquid to the cup surfaces (conduction + convection from the circulation),
  • From the cup to the air and objects nearby (convection+radiation), 
  • From the cup to the cold table underneath (conduction),
  • Blowing on coffee to cool it down (convection).
  • (Heat is also lost through evaporation -change of phase-, but that’s out of our scope)

2.2- R-Value

Insulation materials are good at resisting heat flow. To quantify how good is an insulating material and compare them between each others, a neat dude came up with R-value.

R-VALUE

R-value denotes the capacity of an insulating material to resist heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power. It is normally noted (for example) “6.5 per inch“; it means applying one inch thickness of the material will provide 6.5 R-value; applying two inches will provide 13.0 R-value; and so on. R-value takes into account all three heat transfer mechanisms (conduction, radiation, convection). R-value is determined with test ASTM C518 (“Standard Test Method for Steady-State Thermal Transmission Properties by Means of the Heat Flow Meter Apparatus”).

2.3- Condensation and Moisture Control

Vapor Barrier or not?

The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moist air (from inside the van) of migrating towards cold surfaces. The idea is that moist air from respiration, cooking, drying gear, etc. won’t reach cold surfaces and therefore that eliminates condensation issues. However if, for any reason, moist air makes its way past the vapor barrier, it would be very hard to dry that moist air because it would be sandwiched between two vapor barrier layers (remember that metal is a vapor barrier too).

Even if one could achieve the perfect vapor barrier (which is unlikely sorry), there are paths for outside air (charged with moisture) to infiltrate and there are potential leak points as well:

Therefore, we believe that moist air will inevitably come in contact with cold structure, so our approach is to let the insulation layers “breathe” (no vapor barrier).

Condensation and moisture is quite complex, there is much more to talk about… we think this article should help you understand the phenomenon and help you take a better informed decision about your insulation:

CONDENSATION AND MOISTURE IN A VAN | WHY IT HAPPENS AND HOW TO CONTROL IT

2.4- Thermal Bridges

A thermal bridge is a path of least resistance for heat transfer. In other words, it’s a path for heat to “cheat” your insulation and find a way around it. It normally occurs via conduction through a dense material (such as metal).

Take for example the following picture. We added Thinsulate pretty much everywhere, except on the frames and pillars where we will attach our structure (cabinets, etc). All the exposed metal is considered a thermal bridge and heat will flow through it around the Thinsulate.

To mitigate the thermal bridges, a thermal break is added. We added Low-E EZ-COOL since it pretty resistant to compression (applied by the structure attached to the van’s frames).

That’s important, especially if you’re using 80/20 aluminum extrusions for your build (structure, cabinets, etc). Indeed, attaching the 80/20 aluminum directly to the van metal creates excellent thermal bridges and as a result, the 80/20 inside your van will be almost as cold as the van metal!

2.5- Air Loops

Hot air is less dense, so it tend to rise and be replaced by cooler air from above. That’s called an air loop and it’s a phenomenon that happen in non-insulated hollow structure, such as in frames and in pillars. So, to the question “Is it worth shoving insulation inside frames, knowing heat will find a way around (thermal bridges)?”, we think it’s worth it. The total heat loss of your van is the sum of all the small pieces and bits… It all adds up! 

Air-Loop-Convection-Heat-Transfer
Van-Insulation-Convection-Hollow-Structure

3- Van Insulation Materials

At this point, we’re still on our quest to find THE BEST van insulation material… But in order to find out, let’s review our different options:

Thinsulate

PROS

CONS

Bottom word: it’s a popular tried-and-true product that gives a added value to higher-end builds.

Sheep Wool

Sheep wool is the new kid on the block and is quickly gaining momentum; we’re seeing more and more people using it in their van!

PROS

CONS

Polyiso Rigid Board

PROS

CONS

XPS Rigid Board

PROS

CONS

Spray Foam

PROS

CONS

Rockwool

PROS

CONS

Reflectix

Once upon a time, someone decided to insulate his van with Reflectix and blogged about it. Then everyone started using it. 

By now, we know Reflectix is a very poor insulator. And on top of that, it requires an air gap in order to be effective.

It’s a good option to make your own window covers (to reflect the sun), but we prefer EZ-COOL as it is more resistant to tear and doesn’t have that annoying foil noise.

Low-E (EZ-Cool)

PROS

Low-E insulation (formerly EZ-COOL) is sold as a “radiant-barrier”. It doesn’t have much R-Value, but it’s convenient to use as thermal break and for insulated window covers.

THINSULATE vs Sheep Wool

Sheep wool is gaining popularity in the van conversion world, so we ordered a sample to see for ourselves:

We ordered a small sample of Havelock Wool (picture above) that we will place into our headliner, side-to-side with the Thinsulate (picture below). We can’t really compare the insulation capacity (in theory both materials have very similar R-value), but we’ll be able to observe a critical properties: moisture management (keep reading…).

SOME THEORY:
– Thinsulate is an inorganic (synthetic) material, doesn’t off-gas and there are no chemical added to improve its properties.
– Sheep wool is an organic (natural) material, so has to be treated with boric acid as fire retardant and pesticide. Boric acid is NOT known to be harmful at lower concentration and is actually found in many other building materials (Roxul, denim, etc). It comes from Borates which can be found in nature, but it’s a misconception that everything that comes from nature is good for us; harmful chemicals are also found in nature! BOTTOM WORDS: Because of the low concentration we’re not concerned about it in the sheep wool (remember it’s common in many materials and products), but it’s been sugar-coated by some manufacturers so we just wanted to set the record straight.

FIRST OBSERVATIONS:
– The Thinsulate we had in the headliner (for the last two years) still looks like new (no mold, no bugs), yay!
– During the installation the Thinsulate does not easily release loose fibers, while the Sheep Wool releases quite a lot of them. (not really an issue, just an observation)
– The Thinsulate holds in place with 3M adhesive, which makes the installation simpler.
– Both materials are cut quite easily with good scissors.

FIRST THOUGHTS:
– Thinsulate has been good to us for the last 2 years… It was super easy and clean to install, it has kept us warm during skiing season (down to -22F/-30°C), and at last we got no molds or bugs in it.
– But if the “natural & sustainable” aspect of the sheep wool appeals to you, that’s a good enough reason to go for it! Let us know how it performs in the long run 🙂

From Heros to Zeros:

Van Insulation Recycled Denim

Recycled Denim

Why we don't recommend it

It’s hydrophilic: it absorbs and retains moisture. People sometimes attempt to enclose it in garbage bags, only to find out later that the bags are teared out and insulation is soaked or moldy.

Fiberglass

Why we don't recommend it

It’s hydrophilic: it absorbs and retains moisture. People sometimes attempt to enclose it in garbage bags, only to find out later that the bags are teared out and insulation is soaked or moldy.

Lizard Skin and other insulating Paint

Why we don't recommend it

By now we know that efficient insulation materials are low-density. A coat of paint is everything except low density…

The manufacturers don’t provide any data (i.e. R-value, etc.) to backup their claims; there’s probably a good reason why (it would be fairly easy to test and publish data).

According to this American Scientific Article, EPA does not recommend insulating paint: “We haven’t seen any independent studies that can verify their insulating qualities“. They noted some heat gain reduction on surfaces directly exposed to sun only, and that “the reflectivity of the painted surfaces decline considerably with time”. It’s all about reflectivity, not insulation capacity. Are you really gonna paint the exterior or your van with insulating paint..?

Until independent studies show a benefit of insulating paint through standardized test, save your money and your time.

4- Our Insulation Strategy

Going from theory to real-life implies making compromises; there is no perfect solution! The best vanlife insulation is not just about R-Value, it’s also about:

  • Ease of installation for the average DIYer
  • Risk of messing things up (i.e. warped van panels)
  • Condensation and moisture control
  • Conformity to curved and uneven surfaces
  • Material properties (i.e. maximum temperature, resistance to pressure)

With that in mind, here is how we insulated our campervan:

4.1- Floor

To be efficient, any compressible insulation material (thinsulate, wool, etc.) must be fully expanded. As a result, they’re not ideal for floor insulation. On the other hand, XPS is an excellent insulator, provides a solid and flat fondation for our floor, it’s quite cheap and readily available at your local hardware store.

So, does it work in real-life? Definitely! We installed our Webasto so it blows hot air in our living space near and parallel to our floor; as a result the floor is nice and warm, even in sub-freezing temperatures. But don’t get us wrong: the farther you go from the Webasto, the colder the floor gets. Cold air falls, remember? So even a perfectly insulated floor won’t be nice and warm all over, unless it’s heated somehow. No, we don’t think radiant heated floor is necessary (but could be a nice luxury); a pair of slippers is just fine and much more energy efficient!

We chose XPS Rigid Board C-200 to insulate our floor. The C-200 is rated 20PSI capable; human footprint = 16 PSI.

Here are our layers from bottom-up:

  • 1/2″ thick XPS (to fill the corrugations)
  • 1″ thick XPS
  • MLV -not show on the picture- (noise insulation, but we’d skip that layer if we had to start over)
  • 1/2″ thick Plywood
  • Vinyl Flooring -not shown on the picture-

We documented EVERYTHING about our floor installation here (insulation, sealing, bonding, plywood, vinyl, etc.):

4.2- Walls, Ceiling, Overhead cabin & Sliding Door

Installing Thinsulate insulation to a DIY conversion is a piece of cake: there’s no mess, no risk of messing things up, it’s not permanent and it’s easy to work with. You’ll be all done in a weekend. Here is how it goes:

  1. Cut Thinsulate to size (using tailor scissors)
  2. Apply 3M 90 spray adhesive to the van wall and on the white face of the Thinsulate
  3. Wait 30-60 seconds for the adhesive to become tacky
  4. Press the Thinsulate against the wall
  5. That’s all!

How does it performs in real-life? Since we moved full-time in our van (2017), we had anything between -22F (-30C) and +95F (+35C) and we’re in a good position to say it’s a tried-and-true van insulation material. If we had to build another van, we’d use Thinsulate insulation again without any hesitation.

ford-transit-camper-van-thinsulate-installation-18
Walls
ford-transit-camper-van-thinsulate-installation-13
Overhead Cabin Storage
sliding-door-after-thinsulate
Sliding Door
Thinsulate installed
All done. That was easy!

We documented EVERYTHING about the installation of our Thinsulate insulation (walls, ceiling, overhead cabin storage, sliding door) in the following article:

We covered all the remaining exposed metal and about 50% of Thinsulate surfaces with EZ-COOL insulation; this is to create thermal breaks and add some radiant barrier. We didn’t completely covered the Thinsulate to let it “breathe” (the EZ-COOL act as a vapor barrier). As usual, we documented the whole thing:

4.3- Windows

You can spend a lot of money and time on the best insulation, but remember that glass is an excellent heat conductor (in other words, an horrible insulator). You can make cheap & dirty Reflectix covers to reflect the sun in summer, but if you are skiers like us you will want something that performs better… To minimize heat loss during winter, we made insulated window covers out of ez-cool + thinsulate + fabric. They make a HUGE difference in sub-freezing temperatures, and they’re plain essential below 5F (-15C). Here is how we made them:

5- On Second Thought

You can read our second thoughts in each respective installation article listed above. But to sum it up: we would choose exactly the same van insulation strategy if we had to start over! It has served us very well.

Want to know more about winter vanlife? Driving in snow, 4×4, FWD vs RWD, electricity, finding water, finding campspot, etc.? We wrote a debrief after our first winter full-time in the van (and plan on update it every winter):

 

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about us

Nice To Meet You.

Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017 we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers and moved into our self built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!

75 thoughts on “Vanlife Insulation Guide: Make an Educated Decision”

  1. Hi guys. Great article that I wish I’d found earlier. Question: I already have reflectix and polysio attached to some hollow areas and it aint coming off (used some pretty robust adhesive). In theory, could I put thinsulate over these sections and expect similar results? Or, will the excessive insulation just make things worse?

    Thanks!

    Reply
  2. Hello. Question. I want to not put the 1/2 insulation in the low spots on the floor to allow a little ventilation for when moisture somehow makes it’s way down there. Given that the xps foam will then just rest on the high spots and not be supported in the low spots, do you think i need to add a plywood layer so the xps does not compress on the ribs? Thanks in advance

    Reply
  3. Hi there, great site! I was wondering whether you would be so kind to share your thougts on the use of Armaflex for insulation. Here in Europe the most concensus is on the use of Armaflex turning every van inside deep black 🙂 Years ago we traveled the Panamericana with a Westfalia VW T4 syncro van without any additional insulation and even survived -23 celsius in Bolivia. Nevertheless in our new bus we like the best insulation. Happy trails ans thx for your time!

    Reply
  4. LOVE your site, what an incredible resource! I’ve just purchased a cargo van and am starting the build, so will be using/purchasing your various guides, plans and advice. For the flooring, Im having tough time locating local minicell closed foam retailers in Southern Cal (Home Depot has other brands, but hoping to stay the course with your recommendations where possible.

    Any advice on where to find/purchase?

    Reply
  5. Finally a site that makes sense 🙂 I’m embarking on my 1st build about to start with the floor, I have a transit custom, could suggest a way of insulating the floor without raising it so high?
    I don’t have a poptop and height is a premium.

    Thanks

    Reply
  6. Very interesting site
    Im in the process of insulating my van and im thinking about using sheep wool, acccording to comments its a bit difficult to set up, but i have got an idea of using steel wire mesh to sandwich in between two layers of the stuff which I will sew or glue on to , what is your prized opinion on this scheme

    Reply
  7. Love all the details and help and insight! I believe I read “somewhere” in your posts on insulation that more than 1 layer of Thinsulate is not helpful, and that you may have explained the rationale for why re leaving some dead air space between the Thinsulate and vapor barrier…but I can’t find that content any longer…can you point me to the page where that content is, or possibly give a quick reprise…it seems like several people have similar questions re the value of a second layer of Thinsulate in some of the deeper inset areas of the van.

    Thanks in advance!

    Reply
  8. It is obvious that your choices have been excellent for your lifestyle but just how necessary is the insulation for those of us who do not want to camp out in temperatures lower than (say) 10 degrees Celsius?

    Reply
  9. Hi Guys,
    I understand you did not use any other sound dampening besides Thinsulate. What about the interior of the wheel wells?

    Also, After trying this setup for several months, do you think EZ-Cool was a good choice or would you let that go in a future build?

    Thanks so much for all the valuable info.

    Reply
      • I am just starting my Van Build. I noticed while driving my van across the country after buying it that there were speeds and road surfaces that would create a loud hum on the sheet metal. I decided to use Kilmat sound deadening which is self adhering and you roll it to make it attach the best. Now my van does NOT hum. I can “knock” on the sheet metal where I have Kilmat and where I do not – big difference. You don’t have to cover the van, just 50% of each area of sheet metal that lacks support for more then a foot. Also I will do the wheel wells. when pebbles hot the wheel wells they sound like bullets now. I will add a bit to the ceiling and some to the doors.

        Reply
    • Hi,
      We covered the wheel well with Thinsulate as well (interior). Once the van is all insulated, finished and furnished, it is quiet. Our opinion is that adding sound dampening is not necessary; we wouldn’t do it if we had to start over.

      We’d probably do EZ-Cool again!

      Reply
  10. I cannot find the air bag disengage video. Could you please send a link?

    This site is the greatest and the word is being passed how great you guys are!

    Dave

    Reply
  11. My 144 feels warmer and cooler already. I still want to add rigid insulation under the floor and on the roof with a membrane type roofing material. I need all the height inside the coach

    Reply
  12. Hello! Incredible job with the build-out and with your documentation of the entire process. This has been a wonderful resource!

    Did you end up insultating the rear doors? Or just the window coverings?

    Many thanks… John

    Reply
    • Two years into our trip (after two winters), we finally trow some thinsulate in there. All we did is remove the plastic cover by pulling on it (with the speaker cutout) and add Thinsulate.

      Reply
  13. salut Ă  vous,
    je suis Ă  terminer l’isolation de mon transit (148 ext) avec 70 pieds de thinsulate et il va m’en manquer…
    Je n’ai aucune perte (environ 1 pied linĂ©aire) et il me manquera environ 10 pieds linĂ©aires minimum pour terminer le plafond et la porte coulissante et je n’ai mĂŞme pas fait l’intĂ©rieur du montant horizontal sur lequel est fixĂ©e la couette de fils qui se rend Ă  l’arrière. En plus j’ai 2 fenĂŞtres (coulissante et arrière conducteur) et 1 autre petite en arrière. Dans votre construction, aviez vous isolĂ© tout le bas incluant le garage? J’en suis Ă  me demander si j’ai bien reçu 70 pieds de thinsulate (Ă©videmment, je ne l’ai pas dĂ©roulĂ© pour le mesurer!). Votre avis? j’ai reçu le mauvais format ou c’est normal d’ĂŞtre short et je devrai m’acheter ce qu’il me manque? Merci Ă  vous et merci pour votre site qui est une mine d’or.

    Reply
  14. Hi Isabelle and Antoine!
    I’m new in this camper van genre and at the moment I’m doing research about insulation. I pretty much agree with your point of view and will mostly do our vans insulation as you have done yours. My only problem is that I can not get Thinsulate from Finland and at the moment the sheepwool is also not available. What I think is the closest product to them (that is available) is flax insulation so I would like to ask if you guys have ever thought that as an option and what is your opinion about it?
    Example of the product I could get is this http://www.isolina.com/gb/insulation.cfm

    I would really appreciate your opinion about flax and hope you have time to answer for me.

    Thanks!

    Reply
  15. Hi!

    Maybe you mentioned it and I missed it, but what size should I buy for my thinsulate if I have the same van size as you guys & I intend to do the windows too?

    Thank you 🙂

    Reply
  16. Wow thanks, I think you just saved me a big headache by switching to thinsulate over spray foam or foam board for my walls (mine are straight walls, cargo trailer).

    I never would have guessed one layer of thinsulate would be sufficient for subzero temps. You really wouldn’t recommend 2 layers then?

    Thanks!

    Reply
  17. Bonjour!

    Super site, je suis d’accord avec tous les concepts dans cette page. Je comprends que l’isolation au thinsulate s’est avĂ©rĂ© un bon choix pour vous puisque le concept fonctionne. Maintenant, je m’apprĂŞte Ă  faire une conversion et je lis plein de choses contre l’isolation Ă  l’urĂ©thane mais toujours basĂ© sur des hypothèses. Je me demandais si vous aviez rencontrĂ© (ou vu des tĂ©moignages vidĂ©os) de gens qui avaient rĂ©ellement vĂ©cu les problèmes dont tout le monde parle pour l’isolation Ă  l’urĂ©thane gyclĂ© (Rouille, dĂ©formation tĂ´le, etc)?

    Reply
    • Pour la dĂ©formation de tĂ´le, oui, on a rencontrĂ© des gens avec le problème. La dĂ©formation est quand mĂŞme subtile. On a aussi rencontrĂ© beaucoup de gens qui ont isolĂ© Ă  l’urĂ©thane sans problème…
      Pour la rouille, c’est un problème qui apparaĂ®t après de longues annĂ©es et il faudrait aussi que la personne enlève l’urĂ©thane pour aller constater les dĂ©gats, alors on a pas rencontrĂ© personne ayant rapportĂ© le problème. Par contre, on a rencontrĂ© plusieurs personnes ayant rapportĂ© des fuites mineures…

      Reply
  18. Maybe I am missing it, But what are you using for sound dampening, is it just the thinsulate ?

    Thanks for your blog here… very inspiring

    Reply
  19. Hi guys,

    Here admiring your masterpiece for a long time now and I am finally taking steps towards this dream.

    What is your best advice for insulating for hot weather? I keep reading that insulation for hot weather is futile as it is only delaying heating up of the interior by 1 or 2 hours in the afternoon and that is it. Any advice?

    Love and admiration..

    Reply
  20. Hey all,

    LOVE the site and purchased your electrical guides, etc a few weeks back and just got the handwritten envelope with stickers earlier this week! So kind.

    I am using a ton of your info for my build (and the affiliate links so you get compensated) and I’m leaning towards doing all of your insulations methed, except with Sheepswool in lieu of Thinsulate. Sounds like with Thinsulate that you use 3m tape, but curious about your recommendations on adhering sheepswool?

    Reply

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