Our DIY camper van conversion will be used as a winter splitboarding basecamp, so climate control is primordial. The thinsulate thermal insulation, the insulated window covers, the Webasto AirTop 2000 STC air heater and the Maxxair Fan are other key elements that make our campervan conversion comfortable during winter.
Choosing which type of insulation to use was one of the toughest decisions; there is no perfect solution; therefore, we went with the solution that was the best compromise for us.
The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) installation was performed progressively during the length of the conversion process as we were installing the wall and ceiling. Why? Because if we covered the walls and ceiling too soon, we would lose the location of the existing holes for Cross Nut installation.
What’s the point of the Low-E Insulation (EZ-Cool)?
We chose Thinsulate as our “main” thermal and noise insulation. To be effective, Thinsulate needs to be fully expanded: that’s almost 2 inches thick for SM600L Thinsulate. There are locations where we just don’t have that space to install Thinsulate (we rather keep that space as living area), so we installed Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool).
Is it redundant to install Thinsulate AND Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool)? NO! Metal is an excellent thermal conductor, therefore leaving some metal exposed is really bad for thermal loss. We experienced it during our conversion: while we were in the Chic-Chocs at -15F, the Thinsulate surfaces were warm to the touch as opposed to the bare metal surfaces that were freezing cold. We lost a lot of heat there. That was enough to convince us.
Why did we install Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) over the Thinsulate at some locations and not others? The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) acts as a vapor barrier. We did not want to sandwich the Thinsulate between the van metal and the Low-E (EZ-Cool) so it could “breathe”. We believe moisture will eventually get to the Thinsulate (vapor barrier or not), so we covered about 75% of the Thinsulate surface. This is a compromise: this way we get some radiant shield properties of the Low-E (EZ-Cool), and we let our Thinsulate breathe. You might be interested in this article:
TIME SPENT ON THE JOB
Really, it’s hard to tell because the Low-E (EZ-Cool) was installed as the conversion progressed. It’s fairly easy and fast to install, so let’s say 4 to 8 hours total.
TOTAL COST
$200 USD, more or less
MATERIAL
If you choose to only install the Low-E (EZ-Cool) on the remaining exposed metal (following the Thinsulate installation), 40 linear feet should be about right. If you choose to cover the remaining exposed metal AND to install on top of the Thinsulate, you should probably get 60 linear feet (we are also using Low-E (EZ-Cool) to make insulated window covers, so we went for 60 linear feet and we had to buy more later).
- Low-E Insulation (EZ-Cool) (Buy from eBay)
- 3M 90 Spray Adhesive (Buy from Amazon)
TOOLS
- Scissors
RESOURCES
- There’s nothing to see here.
PRE-REQUISITE
- Thinsulate Installation
- The Low-E (EZ-Cool) is installed as the conversion progresses…
HERE IS HOW IT GOES
It’s not very complicated, so we will keep this short and sweet.
Similar to Thinsulate, we used 3M 90 Spray Adhesive on metal surfaces. For installation over the Thinsulate, we used the aluminum tape included with the Low-E (EZ-Cool).
We really let go on the Low-E EZ-COOL pictures… here is what we have :
ON SECOND THOUGHT
On second thought, we should have taken more pictures of the Low-E (EZ-Cool) installation!!
(Very) Related Articles:
Hi, do you know if SmartShield is the same product family as Low-E / EZ-Cool? It looks the same, is easier to source and a little cheaper.
Thanks
It isn’t formerly EZ-Cool. That is the generic term for this material. Low-e is a trademark owned by one company. Others are using EZ-Cool, check Amazon.
I have a condensation question. I am in early build of my daily driven Astro. I have a vent fan that I leave running all day and night and I leave the windows cracked to allow air flow. I have removed the OEM headliner in preparation for a ceiling and now have only bare painted sheetmetal as a roof/ceiling. This morning (10:00 am), I drove to work and parked my vehicle. It just so happens that my windshield sun shades fit nicely between the roof ribs and I store them there when not in use. I pulled the shades down and covered my windshield and noticed a significant amount of condensation on the sheet metal, but only in the area between where the sun shades were stored and the roof. The rest of the roof was completely dry. Can you explain this? Thank you.
Why not use spray foam to insulate the areas you cant get insulation into?
I’ve heard it holds moisture to the metal and can cause rust on the van.
You mentioned in your window covering post that the EZ cool has some signal blocking issues. Do you think that is just over the windows or do you think it’s also hurting your signal because it’s on the walls of the van as well?
The metal blocks signal, so I don’t think the problem with the walls is the EZ cool, but the van (metal) itself.
First Time asking a question. I am a very happy builder doing exactly what you guys did (pretty much) and got your comprehensive package and REALLY enjoying your amazon links. Thank you for the time and effort you have done to help us and make yourself an income! I LOVE that! Is there a significant reason NOT to do this EZ cool step in one step and put all the rivets in prior to EZ cool installation? With the rivet holes marked on the EZ cool (or maybe even outside the EZ Cool holding it in place(so the rivets are on the outside)?)
I don’t see a problem, as long as the location of the crossnuts are clearly marked. If you want to add crossnuts later it might be an issue?
what did you do with the original lighting cables that the van came with? the cables that were affixed to the roof.
We disconnected them if I recall properly (there was quick disconnect somewhere). But we did NOT cut anything; we left it there if it couldn’t be disconnected.
Hi Antoine,
I have 2 questions if you don’t mind:
1. Why do you think EZ-Cool would not work when applied directly to the metal wall, as a thermal bridge? In my mind that would be the best way to “break” the cold metal & outside air from the warm inside of the van (and Thinsulate would then be attached to the EZ-Cool). What am I missing?
2. Dynamat actually makes a product meant for this type of application – Dynaliner. I know it’s expensive, but I don’t understand why I never heard of anyone using it to line their van metal walls with. Do you see any major issues with applying Dynaliner first, then Thinsulate and finally the wooden paneling at the end?
Thank you very much for your help and all the incredibly useful information you share on your site!!
-Felix
Hi Antoine & Isabelle!
Happy to share that my build is coming along great! Large in part to all of your guidance on this site and down here in the Q&A sections!
My question today is – would it be a good idea to put the EZ Cool on top of the furring strips to help create the air gap between the EZ cool and the van metal? So – metal, thinsulate, furring strips, ez cool, wall paneling. I feel like it would work really well but am curious how you think of that design (both in ease of working with & effectiveness)!
As always – thank you!
Best,
Rob H. – Denver
Most important to know how did you cover EZ-Cool on ceiling. I see on photos only exposed metal ribs covered but it’s not even close to 75%, Did you put more EZ-Cool between frame ribs? I finished half ceiling and now I confused, should I use more EZ-Cool or just on exposed ribs…
My understanding is you need an air gap for the Low-E to work as a radiant barrier and without that gap it just turns into a poor insulator (R-1) . If so, wouldn’t it be ineffective as a thermal break on the areas you put it directly in contact with the metal?
Hey Antoine, thanks for all of this. Do you have any thoughts on the #6 bulletpoint from this article? http://defyingnormal.com/2016/05/09/9-things/
Here they suggest that putting the EZ Cool directly on the metal actually makes the heat bridge problem worse. Did you experience this at all, even if you only applied the EZ Cool to frames?
Would love to have your thoughts on this as well.
I see they applied Low-E everywhere directly on the metal; I agree that’s not effective. We recommend Thinsulate on most surfaces (https://faroutride.com/thinsulate/), then Low-E only where you can’t have thick insulation (e.g. like on the frames for example). You can also add a layer of Low-E on top of the Thinsulate, but it’s probably not necessary.
More discussion about that here: https://faroutride.com/insulation/
Cheers!
Hi Antoine! Thank you so much for this amazing resource. It has shaved off hours and hours of planning time. One question we have is regarding the bed platform legs and the EZ cool. We made the be platform and installed the rivet nuts. We are wondering if you installed EZ cool in between the bed platform leg and the metal frame?
Thanks again!
Hi,
Quick question. How did you go about locating or marking the cross nuts under the EZ-Cool?
Awesome info and tutorial format! Thank you kindly!
You have to install the crossnut first, then install the EZ-COOL.
Hi – we are converting a small Ford Transit Connect. We are on a tight budget and we are looking for insulation that will be easy to install. Do you think we could get away with covering the walls with only EZ Cool and not Thinsulate? Will only Ez Cool insulate the van well?
Thanks for your help! Great website!
EZ cool alone won’t do much. Check out this article for a few alternatives: https://faroutride.com/insulation/
Good luck!
How would you compare EZ Cool with Reflectix? Could I use either for the same purpose?
Reflectix is more fragile, makes lot’s of noise and can’t really take pressure (when it’s layered). I’d stick with EZ-COOL.
I’ve seen people post about putting Ez-Cool on the metal walls, then install thinsulate and after that Reflectix. Is that a recommendation, as I noticed when reading your info that you rather installed thinsulate and ezcool over that, but that you did not use refldctix. Curious why and when you say an air gap, how do you create that if you apply thinsulate to the walls.
Hi John,
we discuss about that extensively here: https://faroutride.com/insulation/
Let me know if you still have questions after reading this! 🙂
Hi. I was wondering about putting ez cool under the factory floor for my build.
Figure it might give a bit of insulation to the floor. What are your thought for some insulation under the factory floor
Personally I’d go with:
1) Minicell
Minicell Insulation:
0.40″ thick, Ford Transit (eBay)
0.030″ thick, NCV3 Sprinter (eBay)
0.030″ thick, Ram ProMaster (eBay)
2) XPS Rigid Board (on top of the Minicell) if using your van in winter (skiing?)
As documented here: https://faroutride.com/floor-installation/
I think it’ll perform better than ez-cool alone.
Have a good one,
antoine