Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation

Last Updated: July 24, 2021

Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation

EZ-COOL-Van-Installation-Heading-1920px

Our DIY camper van conversion will be used as a winter splitboarding basecamp, so climate control is primordial. The thinsulate thermal insulation, the insulated window covers, the Webasto AirTop 2000 STC air heater and the Maxxair Fan are other key elements that make our campervan conversion comfortable during winter.

Choosing which type of insulation to use was one of the toughest decisions; there is no perfect solution; therefore, we went with the solution that was the best compromise for us.

The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) installation was performed progressively during the length of the conversion process as we were installing the wall and ceiling. Why? Because if we covered the walls and ceiling too soon, we would lose the location of the existing holes for Cross Nut installation.

 

What’s the point of the Low-E Insulation (EZ-Cool)?

We chose Thinsulate as our “main” thermal and noise insulation. To be effective, Thinsulate needs to be fully expanded: that’s almost 2 inches thick for SM600L Thinsulate. There are locations where we just don’t have that space to install Thinsulate (we rather keep that space as living area), so we installed Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool).

Is it redundant to install Thinsulate AND Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool)? NO! Metal is an excellent thermal conductor, therefore leaving some metal exposed is really bad for thermal loss. We experienced it during our conversion: while we were in the Chic-Chocs at -15F, the Thinsulate surfaces were warm to the touch as opposed to the bare metal surfaces that were freezing cold. We lost a lot of heat there. That was enough to convince us.




Why did we install Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) over the Thinsulate at some locations and not others? The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) acts as a vapor barrier. We did not want to sandwich the Thinsulate between the van metal and the Low-E (EZ-Cool) so it could “breathe”. We believe moisture will eventually get to the Thinsulate (vapor barrier or not), so we covered about 75% of the Thinsulate surface. This is a compromise: this way we get some radiant shield properties of the Low-E (EZ-Cool), and we let our Thinsulate breathe. You might be interested in this article:

 

 

TIME SPENT ON THE JOB

Really, it’s hard to tell because the Low-E (EZ-Cool) was installed as the conversion progressed. It’s fairly easy and fast to install, so let’s say 4 to 8 hours total.

 

TOTAL COST

$200 USD, more or less

 


DISCLOSURE: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc), we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.

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MATERIAL

If you choose to only install the Low-E (EZ-Cool) on the remaining exposed metal (following the Thinsulate installation), 40 linear feet should be about right. If you choose to cover the remaining exposed metal AND to install on top of the Thinsulate, you should probably get 60 linear feet (we are also using Low-E (EZ-Cool) to make insulated window covers, so we went for 60 linear feet and we had to buy more later).

 

EZ Cool
A nice roll of Low-E (EZ-Cool)

 

TOOLS

  • Scissors

 

RESOURCES

  • There’s nothing to see here.

 

PRE-REQUISITE




HERE IS HOW IT GOES

It’s not very complicated, so we will keep this short and sweet.

 

Similar to Thinsulate, we used 3M 90 Spray Adhesive on metal surfaces. For installation over the Thinsulate, we used the aluminum tape included with the Low-E (EZ-Cool).

 

We really let go on the Low-E EZ-COOL pictures… here is what we have :

 

 

ON SECOND THOUGHT

On second thought, we should have taken more pictures of the Low-E (EZ-Cool) installation!!

 

 

 

(Very) Related Articles:

 

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About-Us-Narrow

Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017, we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers, and moved into our self-built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then, and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams, and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!

25 thoughts on “Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation”

  1. You mentioned in your window covering post that the EZ cool has some signal blocking issues. Do you think that is just over the windows or do you think it’s also hurting your signal because it’s on the walls of the van as well?

    Reply
  2. First Time asking a question. I am a very happy builder doing exactly what you guys did (pretty much) and got your comprehensive package and REALLY enjoying your amazon links. Thank you for the time and effort you have done to help us and make yourself an income! I LOVE that! Is there a significant reason NOT to do this EZ cool step in one step and put all the rivets in prior to EZ cool installation? With the rivet holes marked on the EZ cool (or maybe even outside the EZ Cool holding it in place(so the rivets are on the outside)?)

    Reply
    • We disconnected them if I recall properly (there was quick disconnect somewhere). But we did NOT cut anything; we left it there if it couldn’t be disconnected.

      Reply
  3. Hi Antoine,

    I have 2 questions if you don’t mind:

    1. Why do you think EZ-Cool would not work when applied directly to the metal wall, as a thermal bridge? In my mind that would be the best way to “break” the cold metal & outside air from the warm inside of the van (and Thinsulate would then be attached to the EZ-Cool). What am I missing?
    2. Dynamat actually makes a product meant for this type of application – Dynaliner. I know it’s expensive, but I don’t understand why I never heard of anyone using it to line their van metal walls with. Do you see any major issues with applying Dynaliner first, then Thinsulate and finally the wooden paneling at the end?

    Thank you very much for your help and all the incredibly useful information you share on your site!!

    -Felix

    Reply
  4. Hi Antoine & Isabelle!

    Happy to share that my build is coming along great! Large in part to all of your guidance on this site and down here in the Q&A sections!

    My question today is – would it be a good idea to put the EZ Cool on top of the furring strips to help create the air gap between the EZ cool and the van metal? So – metal, thinsulate, furring strips, ez cool, wall paneling. I feel like it would work really well but am curious how you think of that design (both in ease of working with & effectiveness)!

    As always – thank you!

    Best,
    Rob H. – Denver

    Reply
  5. Most important to know how did you cover EZ-Cool on ceiling. I see on photos only exposed metal ribs covered but it’s not even close to 75%, Did you put more EZ-Cool between frame ribs? I finished half ceiling and now I confused, should I use more EZ-Cool or just on exposed ribs…

    Reply
  6. My understanding is you need an air gap for the Low-E to work as a radiant barrier and without that gap it just turns into a poor insulator (R-1) . If so, wouldn’t it be ineffective as a thermal break on the areas you put it directly in contact with the metal?

    Reply
  7. Hi Antoine! Thank you so much for this amazing resource. It has shaved off hours and hours of planning time. One question we have is regarding the bed platform legs and the EZ cool. We made the be platform and installed the rivet nuts. We are wondering if you installed EZ cool in between the bed platform leg and the metal frame?

    Thanks again!

    Reply
  8. Hi,

    Quick question. How did you go about locating or marking the cross nuts under the EZ-Cool?

    Awesome info and tutorial format! Thank you kindly!

    Reply
  9. Hi – we are converting a small Ford Transit Connect. We are on a tight budget and we are looking for insulation that will be easy to install. Do you think we could get away with covering the walls with only EZ Cool and not Thinsulate? Will only Ez Cool insulate the van well?

    Thanks for your help! Great website!

    Reply
  10. I’ve seen people post about putting Ez-Cool on the metal walls, then install thinsulate and after that Reflectix. Is that a recommendation, as I noticed when reading your info that you rather installed thinsulate and ezcool over that, but that you did not use refldctix. Curious why and when you say an air gap, how do you create that if you apply thinsulate to the walls.

    Reply
  11. Hi. I was wondering about putting ez cool under the factory floor for my build.
    Figure it might give a bit of insulation to the floor. What are your thought for some insulation under the factory floor

    Reply

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