Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation


Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation

Our DIY camper van conversion will be used as a winter splitboarding basecamp, so climate control is primordial. The thinsulate thermal insulation, the insulated window covers, the Webasto AirTop 2000 STC air heater and the Maxxair Fan are other key elements to make our campervan conversion comfortable during winter.

Choosing which type of insulation to use was one of the toughest decision; there is no perfect solution, therefore we went with the solution that was the best compromise for us.

The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) installation was performed progressively during the length of the conversion process, as we were installing the wall and ceiling. Why? Because if we covered the walls and ceiling too soon, we would loose the location of the existing holes for Cross Nut installation.


What’s the point of the Low-E Insulation (EZ-Cool)?

We chose Thinsulate (check it on Amazon) as our “main” thermal and noise insulation. To be effective, Thinsulate requires to be fully expanded: that’s almost 2 inches thick for SM600L Thinsulate. There are locations where we just don’t have that space to install Thinsulate (we rather keep that space as living area), so we installed Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool).

Is it redundant to install Thinsulate AND Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool)? NO! Metal is an excellent thermal conductor, therefore leaving some metal exposed is really bad for thermal loss. We experienced it during our conversion: while we were in the Chic-Chocs at -15F, the Thinsulate surfaces were warm to the touch as opposed to the bare metal surfaces that were freezing cold. We lost a lot of heat there. That was enough to convince us.

Why did we install Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) over the Thinsulate at some locations and some other not? The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) acts as a vapor barrier. We did not want to sandwich the Thinsulate between the van metal and the Low-E (EZ-Cool), to let it “breath”. We believe moisture will eventually get to Thinsulate (vapor barrier or not) so we covered about 75% of the Thinsulate surface. This is a compromise: this way we get some radiant shield properties of the Low-E (EZ-Cool) and we let breath our Thinsulate. You might be interested in this article:




Really, it’s hard to tell because the Low-E (EZ-Cool) was installed as the conversion progressed. It’s fairly easy and fast to install, so let’s say 4 to 8 hours total.



200$ USD, more or less


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If you choose to only install the Low-E (EZ-Cool) on the remaining exposed metal (following the Thinsulate installation), 40 linear feet should be about right. If you choose to cover the remaining exposed metal AND to install on top of the Thinsulate, you should probably get 60 linear feet (we are also using Low-E (EZ-Cool) to make insulated window covers, so we went for 60 linear feet and we had to buy more later).


EZ Cool
A nice roll of Low-E (EZ-Cool)



  • Scissors



  • There’s nothing to see here.




It’s not very complicated, so we will keep this short and sweet.


Similar to Thinsulate, we used 3M 90 Spray Adhesive on metal surfaces. For installation over the Thinsulate, we used the aluminum tape included with the Low-E (EZ-Cool).


We really let go on the Low-E EZ-COOL pictures… here is what we have :




On second thought, we should have take more pictures of the Low-E (EZ-Cool) installation!!




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Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017 we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers and moved into our self built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!




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28 thoughts on “Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation”

  1. Most important to know how did you cover EZ-Cool on ceiling. I see on photos only exposed metal ribs covered but it’s not even close to 75%, Did you put more EZ-Cool between frame ribs? I finished half ceiling and now I confused, should I use more EZ-Cool or just on exposed ribs…

  2. My understanding is you need an air gap for the Low-E to work as a radiant barrier and without that gap it just turns into a poor insulator (R-1) . If so, wouldn’t it be ineffective as a thermal break on the areas you put it directly in contact with the metal?

  3. Hi Antoine! Thank you so much for this amazing resource. It has shaved off hours and hours of planning time. One question we have is regarding the bed platform legs and the EZ cool. We made the be platform and installed the rivet nuts. We are wondering if you installed EZ cool in between the bed platform leg and the metal frame?

    Thanks again!

  4. Hi,

    Quick question. How did you go about locating or marking the cross nuts under the EZ-Cool?

    Awesome info and tutorial format! Thank you kindly!

  5. Hi – we are converting a small Ford Transit Connect. We are on a tight budget and we are looking for insulation that will be easy to install. Do you think we could get away with covering the walls with only EZ Cool and not Thinsulate? Will only Ez Cool insulate the van well?

    Thanks for your help! Great website!

  6. I’ve seen people post about putting Ez-Cool on the metal walls, then install thinsulate and after that Reflectix. Is that a recommendation, as I noticed when reading your info that you rather installed thinsulate and ezcool over that, but that you did not use refldctix. Curious why and when you say an air gap, how do you create that if you apply thinsulate to the walls.

  7. Hi. I was wondering about putting ez cool under the factory floor for my build.
    Figure it might give a bit of insulation to the floor. What are your thought for some insulation under the factory floor

  8. I noticed that on the ceiling you have some sections of EZ Cool taped directly to the Thinsulate…2 questions
    1) Why?
    2) Did you just use HVAC Foil Tape to secure it?

    Again, thank you for your time.:-)


    • 1) We didn’t want to completely cover the thinsulate (to let it “breath”), so we covered like 75% of its surface.
      2) We used the aluminum tape that came with the EZ COOL.

      Hope that helps 🙂

  9. Hi, thanks for sharing all your experience! I’m still not clear where you used EZ Cool. My understanding is that you used it to cover all the metal (ie, the ribs, the front face of the cavity walls, etc), essentially framing the cavities and the large cutouts that were already filled with Thinsulate. Is that correct? And you said you covered 75% of the Thinsulate. Did you actually cover up some of the cavities? Did you partially cover the large cutouts? We started to insulate with rigid foam panels but we’re having a hard time with it so we may switch to plan B, using something more flexible. Thanks!

    • 1- We used Thinsulate first, directly on the metal, everywhere we could (large “flat” surface, cavities, etc).
      2- Where metal was still exposed (no thinsulate) (frames, mostly) we covered it with EZ-Cool.
      3- Then we covered about 75% of the thinsulate surface with EZ-Cool.

      Hope that helps!

    • We still have metal exposed and it sure is a weak point. Covering it would be an improvement, but we managed to stay warm and comfortable anyway.

      have a good one!

  10. Salut, J’utilise beaucoup votre site comme reference. Je note que vous avez mis de l’isolant à l’intérieur de la porte coulissante. Je sais pas si vous êtes au courant mais l’eau entre et sort librement à l’intérieur des portières. L’eau entre essentiellement par les poignées et serrure et ressort par des trous de drainage dans le bas de la porte. Je faisais juste lever le flag au cas ou vous étiez pas au courant. Bonne continuité de voyage !

    • Salut,
      oui en effet on a mis de l’isolant. Le Thinsulate ne retient pas l’eau (c’est hydrophobique) et la laisse circuler librement (ou presque) et les trous ne sont pas bouchés!

      Merci tout-de-même pour l’observation et bonne journée 🙂

  11. Interesting. How does it perform after you screw wood panels over it tightly? Does the foam continue to collapse such that the screw are loose after it does? Wonder if I should put this under the logistic track. I’ll have loads of those for future rearranging.

  12. More questions as I research your great site! …
    * Did you apply EZ Cool to the inside of the van walls in the larger sections under the thinsulate?
    * What material and sizing did you use for your firing strips that are used to fasten your finished ceiling and wall to? Did you consider other methods besides the firing strips?
    * What tongue and groove material did you use for your finished ceiling and walls? How is it holding up? You see any buckling?
    * Overall are you happy with the thermal AND noise isolation of your insulation method? Do overs? e.g. In lieu of the vinyl sounds layer you put in your flooring build, did you consider first laying down EZ Cool as the first layer over the entire floor?

    Thanks a bunch for your great work!

    • 1) No EZ-Cool was applied under the Thinsulate. (see point 5 below)
      2) We used baltic birch plywood as firing strips. 1/2″ thick at ceiling, 3/8″ thick at most places, 1/4″ thick at a few places where we wanted a curvature in the wall.
      3) We used Knotty Pine Paneling from Home-Depot (5/16″ thick). It’s working great so far! No buckling. Some cracking sound, but not enough to bother us.
      4) We’re happy with our thermal isolation. We feel there is no need to put effort on noise insulation; the Thinsulate does the job. Next time, we would NOT use MLV layer on the floor. We feel it’s a waste of money and weight.
      5) EZ-Cool works best with an air gap, don’t waste money and time applying it directly on metal where you can have better (i.e. Thinsulate or foam). We applied EZ-COOL directly on metal only where we needed minimal insulation thickness, to break the thermal bridge between the metal and the interior finish.

      We will post more details on the Wood Paneling Blog Post, but we’re making slow progress as we’re busy selling the house, working on the van and distracted by the fact that mountain biking season has begun…


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