Accessing the alternator power on the Ford Transit is not rocket science, but there are a few key points to be aware of to ensure everything works correctly. We’ll cover the positive and negative connections using FarOutVan1 (2016 Transit) and FarOutVan2 (2021 Transit) as real-world examples. Hope this helps!
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.
1. Resources
How to tap into alternator power varies by brand, model, variant, and production year… It’s always a good idea to refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations. As such, all the information found on this page follows the recommendations of the Ford Transit BEMM:
Ford Transit BEMM
Body & Equipment Mounting Manual
Sprinter BEG
Body & Equipment Guideline
Ram ProMaster BBG
Body Builder’s Guide
2. The Not So Obvious
First, let’s address a few recurrent topics/questions!
2.1. Alternator Power Access
Let’s get it out of the way: to tap into the alternator power, we do not literally connect to the alternator (under the hood) 😉 Generally, there are connection points located in the vehicle for easy access 🙂 It’s often found in or near the driver seat pedestal. You can refer to the Equipment Guidelines (links above) to find out about your specific van!
2.2. Connecting Directly to the Battery
Connecting directly to the starter battery often seems like the obvious thing to do. However, in modern vehicles, this can lead to unforeseen consequences, such as disturbing or bypassing the Battery Management System (BMS). For example, here is an extract from the Ford Transit BEMM (section 4.5.3.):
High electrical loads should be grounded directly to the vehicle body and not the negative battery terminal. Connecting to the negative battery terminal will bypass the BMS and affect the correct assessment of the battery state of charge.
2.3. Create new chassis ground points
The vehicle’s body (or chassis) is like a giant negative bus bar. Before tapping into the chassis to create a new ground point, ensure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to avoid interfering with the vehicle’s electrical system (modern vehicles have finicky systems…).
For example, Ford recommends the following as ground points for the Transit (BEMM section 4.25):
The “problem” is that some of the recommended ground points are not suited for high current (DC-DC chargers draw quite a lot of current!).
That’s why, on FarOutVan2, we created a new ground point to connect our EcoFlow Power Kit (it can draw up to 100A, we need a solid ground point!). We found that the 2024 BEMM allows the creation of new ground points (BEMM section 4.25):
If a new grounding point is required, avoid placing it in a wet area, especially for high current grounds. Ground connections should be routed back close to the location of the +12V supply. This helps to reduce the electromagnetic field particularly generated by inrush current and improve electromagnetic compatibility.
2.4. Sheet Metal Screws
Creating a new chassis ground simply by using a terminal ring over a sheet metal screw is not sufficient. The problems:
- The threads alone provide a path for the current; the surface area is just too small for high-current loads (such as DC-DC chargers) and overheating may occurs.
- Corrosion may occur over time between the screw and the body, and as a result, the current’s path may be lost (permanent or intermittent problems).
The correct way to create a new chassis ground point for a high-current load is to use a larger stud and to remove paint, to allow full contact between the lug and the chassis. See section 4.2.
2.5. Charge while idling
Most alternators do not output current while idling. That means the energy transferred to the Power Kit’s battery is “borrowed” from the starter battery at idle. Charging while idling could deplete the starter battery if used for an extended period. In addition, long periods of idling can produce a build-up of fuel residue and cause engine damage and is not recommended in modern vehicles (even for warming up the engine in cold weather).
3. 2015-2019 Ford Transit
3.1. Positive Connection
To connect the Victron Orion XS on FarOutVan1 (2016 Ford Transit with dual AGM batteries), we followed the recommendations from Ford’s SVE Bulletin Q-226 (Accessing Battery Power on Transit 2015-2019). We connected the positive cable to the empty B+ battery post on the second AGM battery:
3.2. Negative Connection
For the negative connection, we used the BEMM’s recommended ground point between the passenger and driver seat:
4. 2020-Up Ford Transit
4.1. Positive Connection
Per BEMM section 4.5.3:
Any peripherals added to the power supply must be connected in one of the following ways:
- Up to 60A – across CCP1 and Camper 60A supply
- Up to 175A – CCP2 with twin-batteries
- Up to local fuse – Auxiliary Fuse Panel JZGAE
- Up to alternator limit – direct from battery, when controlled using load-shed signal and Third party switch
The CCP1 and CCP2 are located on the driver seat pedestal, near the driver door:
FarOutVan2 (2021 Transit) is equipped with CCP1 (up to 60A) and CCP2 (up to 175A). Since the EcoFlow Power Kit GEN2 can draw up to 100A, we connected it to the CCP2 like so:
We prewired the BlueSea 285 Breaker (120A):
We connected the wire to the Ford Transit CCP2 (M8 threads) and installed the breaker in its enclosure (secured to the seat pedestal with VHB tape):
4.2. Negative Connection
For the negative connection, we created a new grounding point behind the driver seat:
We drilled a hole and, using a wire brush, we removed the paint on the surface mating with the terminal lug (this is a high-current application, we want as much surface contact as possible; do NOT rely on bolt’s threads for conduction!):
We inserted a M8-1.25 x 16mm serrated flanged bolt (stainless), applied dielectric grease on the bare metal (to prevent corrosion), then added the ALT IN negative wire, and a M8 serrated nut (stainless). Do not use a washer between the van chassis and terminal lug:
With this configuration, the Power Kit charges at 100A, and the negative connection remains cool to the touch.
