Sink & Stove Cabinet

Last Updated: December 28, 2021

Sink & Stove Cabinet

Here is how we built our sink & stove cabinet for our Ford Transit DIY camper van conversion!

A while ago, we brainstormed about our living requirements; below are the requirements specific to this cabinet:

  • Propane range (stove/oven) will be used
  • Pressurized Sink
  • The cabinet must be easy & quick to remove (we never know)
  • Big enough for storage, but not that big so it does not use all the “living room” space

TIME SPENT ON THE JOB: ~40-60 hours (This is approximate. Time has become a vague concept at this point. This cabinet was easier & faster to build than the Overhead Storage Cabinet, because there is less funky shapes to deal with.)

TOTAL COST : $280 USD (approx. This exclude the sink and the propane range)


DISCLOSURE: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc), we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.

Portrait


 

MATERIAL:

TOOLS:

RESSOURCES:

PRE-REQUISITE:

Disclaimer

This is not a “How-To”.  This is a “how-we-did-it”, following our own requirements and using our own (limited) skills.

First of all, we modeled and located the sink & stove cabinet.

We used the cutout dimensions from the Atwood Range Manual:

Cutout dimensions (click to enlarge). This is extracted from the manual
This shows the Mr Heater BOSS portable propane shower and the Aquatainers for grey water and for winter water jug. The 3D interactive model can be seen and manipulated  here




Here we go!

We installed the bottom plywood panel. The wheel well & frame cutout was trimmed on the spot.

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion (1)




To join the frame, we used once again the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Mini as it makes the job easy and provide strong joints without fancy tools!

kreg-pocket-hole-mini-jig

kreg-pocket-hole-jig-mini
Buy it on Amazon
kreg-screw-chart-large
Choose the correct screw length. Click on image to enlarge.
  • The joints will be as straight as your cuts… our cuts were not perfect, but it’s OK; we straighten things up when we fastened the frame to the bottom & side panels.
And here is the frame!

We want the cabinet to be easy & quick to remove.

We located 2 existing holes in the van and we installed Cross Nut in them. The cabinet will be fastened with these 2 accessible Cross Nut (and 3 holes in the floor as well) through the back panel of the cabinet.

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion-(4)

Not familiar with Cross Nut? That’s O.K.! Make yourself comfortable and read our Cross Nut post:

Crossnut-Heading




Thinsulate is doing a great job at insulation, but we still have some metal exposed. This metal is very conductive thermally, therefore we covered it with Low-E EZ-COOL.

You can see the EZ-Cool in the back. Meanwhile, we also started to prepare the wall for wood paneling and added the back panel of the cabinet

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion (5)

There is a big gap between the back panel and the Cross Nut; we filled it with 1″ thick baltic birch plywood to avoid stressing the cabinet while torquing the bolt. Basically, this act as a big fat washer…

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion (4)

The frame is ready to receive the countertop!

We want a nice & clean cut, so we’re using our friend’s epic skills and epic tools…

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion

The countertop was then attached to the cabinet’s frame and the oven installed.

We were really into it, so we forgot to take pictures, but that’s pretty straightforward… we just screwed the countertop to the frame from below. Here is the result:

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion-(6-cropped)

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion-(6-cropped)

We then trimmed the countertop to receive the sink.

We wish the manufacturer instructions would include a 1:1 scale template of the cutout… the diagram is far from easy to understand, so we first made it in cardboard, tested it, then transferred the template to the countertop.

Dometic VA7306 Sink Install (14)
Slowly making my way through…
Dometic VA7306 Sink Install (15)
Yay!
We then added a “groove” around the cutout periphery

This is to ensure that the sink rest on its gasket (see a few pictures below) and is water-sealed.

Dometic VA7306 Sink Install (16)
Groovy!
We applied Minwax Polyurethane on trimmed edges (as for all the countertop trimmed edges) to protect from water infiltration. (Varnish could be used as well)
Minwax Polyurethane sealant
Buy on Amazon
Even with the template, it took some trial-and-error (a lot actually) to get the sink to sit perfectly…
We fixed the gasket around the sink periphery using vinyl adhesive strip (Buy on Amazon), then we applied GE Silicone II (Buy on Amazon) between the gasket and the countertop to seal the deal.

WARNING: Silicone is a MESS to work with, you might come up with a better solution. If not, ensure to have towels and soapy water at proximity…

Gasket
Gasket cross-section (refer to sink manual)
The sink is fastened with four screws:
The sink basket was then installed

There seems to be two schools of thought:

  1. Use Plumber’s Putty (Pro = easy to remove, Con = I don’t have that at home right now)
  2. Use Silicone II (Pro = Leak is less likely + I have some at home right now, Con = very hard to remove)

Well, it looks like we will use Silicone:

Dometic VA7306 Sink Install (21)

Dometic VA7306 Sink Install (22)
Then we added the plastic washer and the lock nut, and torqued.
Dometic VA7306 Sink Install (23)
After torquing, we wiped the excess of Silicone. HAVE SOME TOWELS AND WATER HANDY, BECAUSE SILICONE IS MESSY TO WORK WITH!
Dometic VA7306 Sink Install (12)
Tadam!
We then added cedar doors to the cabinet:

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion (10)

We used 1/4″ semi-wrap overlay hinges (Buy on Amazon):

  

We added some cedar finish as well on this side:

Sink-Stove-Cabinet-Van-Conversion (9)

We’re done, sweet!!

…actually, we still have to build storage (shelves, drawers, etc) but we will wait a bit later, until we really understand our needs and until we know exactly what will be stored in the cabinet.

The sink in action!

ON SECOND THOUGHT…

Again, we used cedar planks for finishing. We’re aware that this wood is VERY soft and will scratch very easily. Time will tell if we regret our decision!

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About-Us-Narrow

Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017, we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers, and moved into our self-built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then, and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams, and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!

17 thoughts on “Sink & Stove Cabinet”

  1. This is where we came into your website: Note: So much of what you reccomend is no longer available or too expensive…(a Dometic sink costs $350.00?) I was very tempted to buy your full plans….BUT….I wind up having to figure it all out on my own instead. I get that you are overwhelmed with (this)(these) (lol) comment’s, but in order to make this all fluid for the customer, you need to stay on top of Sinks that no longer exist…explain that the Camco Drain works in conjunction with the sink’s own drain…etc…

    You guys have accomplished a lot…A LOT! Job well done…but keep at it…keep refining it…Thanks. Brian

    Reply
    • I mixed water and vinegar with steel wool. Some mixes had more vinegar than other which made the cedar more or less “aged”.

      Reply
  2. Hi,
    you mention 3 holes in the floor for the cabinet..I assume you mean just the plywood floor!, not the van metal?

    Reply
  3. Would you buy the same sink if you were going to do it again. It appears Dometic is no longer producing this sink but I might be able to get one. What are it’s pros and cons? Thanks for all the info!

    Reply
    • Cons: It’s on the small side for washing full-size items (pots and pans) and the folding faucet is a bit in the way, other than that it’s great!

      Reply
  4. I must have missed something, how did you attach the range to the cabinet/frame? I can’t believe it would be safe just sitting there while driving. I’d be concerned about the gas line getting damaged if the range slid out some.
    Also what’s the depth of the finished cabinet?

    Reply
  5. Great info, your electrical write up was priceless for me. Well worth the fee. My stove question is did you add any insulation around the oven to reduce heat/burn transfer into the cabinet and wood surrounding the oven, have you had any problem with cabinet getting super hot when using oven – Thanks Kyrie

    Reply
  6. Just an FYI – when any propane appliance says it is not for indoors, it’s because propane appliance produce carbon monoxide when they operate; some produce more than others (I think it has to do with completeness of the burn, perhaps), so if it’s not rated for indoor use that’s because it produces too much carbon monoxide f0r safety reasons (short term over-exposure can be deadly; long-term exposure to smaller amounts can also be harmful).

    Reply
  7. How is the Ikea countertop holding up after a few years? I understand it’s a particle board core and they specifically mention not for damp environments.

    Reply

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