This write-up covers the water system installation in FarOutVan2, our second Ford Transit campervan conversion.
For a deep dive into the theory of designing a Water System, you can refer to our Water System Guide.
This is still a work in progress; we will add relevant sections as we progress!
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.
1. Diagram and Features
Fresh Water System
- Wheel Well Fresh Tank (33 Gallon).
Main 4-season tank (active at all times). Features the fill port, vent port, and water pump port. - Spare Tire Fresh Tank (24 Gallon).
Auxiliary 3-season tank (inactive during winter). This is not a standalone tank, it always acts as an extension of the main tank. It is filled and vented via the main tank. When active, water is pumped from this tank. - Shurflo Pump and Accumulator.
3 Gallon Per Minute. The pump keeps the fresh system pressurized at all times. The optional accumulator creates a pressure buffer and reduces the pump’s cycling. - Water Heater (Isotemp Spa 15L).
Can be connected to the vehicle’s coolant system for “free” hot water, and also features a 750W electrical heating element. It has an adjustable thermostatic valve, so the very hot water in the tank is mixed with cool water, resulting in “more” hot water than the tank contains. Also features a low-point drain valve (to empty the heater for winter and storage). - Sink (TecVan).
With 52″ pull-out faucet (can be used as a shower, or “spray gun”) and bamboo cover. - Hidden Shower with In-Floor Pan.
We have a separate write-up for the installation: faroutride.com/hidden-shower - Bike Wash (Spray Gun).
Gray Water System
- Passenger-Side Undermount Gray Tank (10 Gallon).
It collects gray water from the sink and shower. A motorized valve controlled remotely from inside the van activates the drain. - Aqua-Tainer Under-Sink Gray Tank (4 Gallon).
In winter, we can divert the gray water from the sink to this Aqua-Tainer, which is protected from freezing.
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We are currently working on a more detailed diagram and tutorial!
Wait for it!
🙂
2. Fresh Water System
2.1. Spare Tire Fresh Tank
Tank:
Fill Port:
- Straight Fitting (1.5″ MNPT x 1″ Barb).
- We couldn’t find this fitting initially, but we’d use it if we had to start over!
- 1″ Hose (NSF/ANSI 61).
Pump Port:
Drain Port:
- Reducer (1.5″ MNPT x 1.0″ MNPT).
- We couldn’t find this fitting initially, so we used a reducer + nipple instead (photo)!
- PVC Ball Valve (1″ FNPT).
- Elbow Fitting (1″ MNPT).
Level Sensor:
1. Remove and relocate the spare tire:
2. Remove the winch cable and tether of the spare tire carrier mechanism, or relocate them so that they’re out of the way:
3. We’re in luck! There is a threaded stud, on the driver-side, onto which the tether can be screwed, so that it’s out of the way:
4. Here is another angle. Note that we zip-tied the winch cable to the tether:
5. Remove the two rubber plugs circled in the previous photo; the L-Bolt will be secured in these holes. There is no easy way, you can poke through them and pull hard with pliers:
6. Here are the two holes without the rubber plugs (circled):
7. It’s easier to install the fittings before installing the tank. Here are ours (yours may be different):
8. We crimped the level sensor to 18/2 cable (exterior rated):
9. And sealed the deal with glue-lined heat shrink for a waterproof and permanent connection:
10. Raise the van with ramps (always use the parking brake AND wheel chocks), and we’re ready for action!
11. Side-view:
12. Raise the tank to its approximate final location using the precision-tools:
13. The L-bolts are steel, so we painted them to prevent corrosion:
14. Secure the tank with the included aluminum plates, L-bolts, washers, and nuts:
15. Protect the level sensor cable with split-loom tubing and route it inside the van (as marked in red):
16. Front view of the level sensor routing, with the 15A Noco D-Pillar Entry Box in the foreground:
Final Result:
(note: we cut the L-bolt shorter with a Dremel, so it doesn’t protrude as much)
2.2. Hidden Shower
Our hidden shower features an in-floor shower pan and an overhead shower cabinet. We do have a separate write-up for these components:
3. Gray Water System
3.1. Undermount Gray Tank
Tank:
Fill Port:
- Elbow Fitting (1.25″ MNPT x 1″ Barb).
- Tee Fitting (1″ Barb).
- 1″ Hose (Trident #100 Flex).
- 1″ Stainless Steel Worm Gear Clamps.
Vent Port:
- Straight Fitting (1/2″ MNPT x 1/2″ Barb).
- We used an elbow fitting initially, but had to swap for a straight fitting later for space considerations!
- 1/2″ PVC Hose.
Drain Port:
- Straight Nipple (3/4″ MNPT).
- Motorized Ball Valve (3/4″ FNPT).
- Elbow Fitting (3/4″ MNPT).
- 18/3 AWG Wire (Outdoor Rated).
Level Sensor:
We unfortunately don’t have the same level of details for this tank, I guess it was hard to focus with this guy hanging around…
1. Pre-install your fittings and get your straps/hardware ready:
2. We spent HOURS searching for a 1-1/4 BSP to 1″ Barb Elbow, but we couldn’t find one that fit in this tight space. So we went ahead and designed then 3D printed one:
3. Attach the 1″ hose to the shower drain fitting:
4. Put the tank in place and install the straps. It’s VERY tight, so having a flexible hose cut to the proper length is a MUST. It took us a few iterations to get it right!
5. The rear strap is attached to the running board stud (we reused the nut already present):
6. Near the exhaust, we added a rivet-nut (included with the tank) in an existing hole, and used a stainless bolt and washer (also included):
7. The front strap is attached to the running board stud (we reused the nut already present):
8. Near the exhaust, we reused a fastener already present:
9. Final result (the cables were routed a bit later, wait for it!):
On Second Thought…
Too soon!
I am excited to see the progress on this!
Are you thinking of connecting the hot water to the van radiator or do you think it is not worth it or necessary?
We don’t plan on connecting it to the radiator.
Everyone that done it LOVES it, but I’m too chicken and want to leave the van cooling system alone. I will revisit as needed down the road!
Is the external grey water tank the only one you’ll use? Any concern over it freezing in winter?
We will also have an Aqua-Tainer under the sink, for that purpose. It’s the blue thingy you can see in our Diagram.
But we still hope to use the shower during winter, we will either use antifreeze (preferred) or use a heat pad (if we really have to).
Nice! I’ve bought & hooked up the shurflo pump & accumulator just to see what it’d be like to plumb up a system like that. The accumulator makes a huge difference! Almost can’t tell the difference to regular household plumping. It was trivial to install, too. Pretty much just hook it up at nearly any place after the pump, does all the magic for you automagically.
Having a sprayer style faucet would seem to make a lot of sense for a van, easier to save water? Even for rinsing dishes and stuff, every second you don’t need water you just briefly let go of the trigger.
Slightly unrelated question: all the van folks seem to love Thinsulate SM600L for the walls but many use XPS for the floor. Is this just cause van walls are so weirdly shaped and Thinsulate adheres more easily?
If one were to insulate a box truck or other super boxy/easy to work with surface, it seems that on paper XPS has nearly 2x the insulation value per thickness. Are there any other reasons I’m missing to use Thinsulate on the walls?
Hey!
If I was to insulate a box with perfectly square and even surfaces, I’d use XPS. But for curved surfaces, with bumps, etc., Thinsulate is SO much easier. XPS would leave gaps here and there, and I’d be worried about squeaks.
For the floor, XPS provides a flat surface for the next layer (plywood) and has high compressive strength, so no need to frame!
Hope that makes sense,
Antoine
Great, thank you! Looking forward to the next post.