To secure the curtain, we bonded neodymium magnets around the outside of the shower pan (with ca-glue):

Lesson learned: Use another magnet to ensure the orientation is identical for all (to ensure polarity is oriented to attract, not repulse!)

To prevent squeaking, we bonded some black scrim around the pan (the black scrim was taken off some Thinsulate leftovers we had):

Insert the drain from the top:

And secure it with the brass nut underneath. The threads in the drain didn’t go all the way up, so we added a spacer (we 3D printed it, but maybe we could have found one at the hardware store):

Using an oscillating tool, we made “clearance slots” to add some room for the magnets:

All the clearance slots. Seal the bare wood edges with the product of your choice (we used Spar Varnish because we had it handy):

We CNC’d some Minicel on the Shapeoko to add as much insulation as possible between the shower pan and the van floor. We chose Mincel instead of XPS to prevent any squeak. Alternatively, you can use Thinsulate (no need to CNC anything 😉 ):

I could watch this all day 🙂

Insulation pad in place:

Add painter’s tape to protect the floor and the pan from oozing. Better safe than sorry!

Add Silicone II on the mating surfaces:

Drop the shower pan:

Here, I’m adding wood scraps to ensure the weight is concentrated at the edges of the pan, to make it as flush as possible with the floor:

And let the gravity do its work for about 24 hours:

The next day…

With the bamboo cover:

We couldn’t find a drain adapter small enough that would fit between the frame and the grey tank, so we designed and 3D printed one (Shower Drain Elbow Adapter | 1-1/4″ BSP to 1″ Barb):

At this point, we’re getting into plumbing territory… it’s time to pass the torch to Super Antonio Bros!

First, we made all the parts on the Shapeoko. Our CNC File or Paper Template are available:

We glued the bottom, top, rear, and front panels together. We used brad nails to hold the parts while the glue dries (clamps would work too!):

Here is what we have so far:

We then glued the hinge holders to the front and rear panels:

Because the frog hinges don’t have any adjustment, it’s easier to install the hinge before gluing the back panel! We located the door and secured it with clamps, then piloted the holes:

We installed the screws to get the location of the door dialed in, then removed the hinges from the carcass for the next steps:

It’s essential to install the hinges with the mechanism pointing down (see photos); otherwise, you won’t be able to install the rear hinge due to the mixer enclosure!

We glued the back panel to the assembly. Start with the front side (it’s chamfered), then work the rear side:

We used at least a dozen clamps to ensure a uniform and strong bong all along the edges (important!):

We glued the bottom & side panels of the mixer enclosure together (and let dry), then glued the mixer enclosure assembly to the cabinet:

The front panel is included for stability/integrity during the glue op, but do NOT glue it. This is a removable part!

The front panel is removed to continue:

We then installed the 3D printed hose retainer using a right-angle drill adapter (it would be easier to install it BEFORE gluing the enclosure to the cabinet! Next time…):

We installed the mixer to the front panel, and clipped the hose to the retainer:

Then we clipped the hot/cold hoses to the 3D printed retainer:

And pushed it into place (it snaps into the cutout):

We reinstalled the mixer enclosure’s front panel with the four screws:

• We didn’t glue the screw attachment (upper-right corner), but it should be done at this point!!
• Pre-drill the screw holes. Otherwise, the plywood will expand and delaminate while inserting the screws. Finish tightening the screws gently by hand to prevent damaging the fragile threads (screwing parallel to the plywood’s layers is not ideal…)