To secure the curtain, we bonded neodymium magnets around the outside of the shower pan (with ca-glue):

Lesson learned: Use another magnet to ensure the orientation is identical for all (to ensure polarity is oriented to attract, not repulse!)

To prevent squeaking, we bonded some black scrim around the pan (the black scrim was taken off some Thinsulate leftovers we had):

Insert the drain from the top:

And secure it with the brass nut underneath. The threads in the drain didn’t go all the way up, so we added a spacer (we 3D printed it, but maybe we could have found one at the hardware store):

Using an oscillating tool, we made “clearance slots” to add some room for the magnets:

All the clearance slots. Seal the bare wood edges with the product of your choice (we used Spar Varnish because we had it handy):

We CNC’d some Minicel on the Shapeoko to add as much insulation as possible between the shower pan and the van floor. We chose Mincel instead of XPS to prevent any squeak. Alternatively, you can use Thinsulate (no need to CNC anything 😉 ):

I could watch this all day 🙂

Insulation pad in place:

Add painter’s tape to protect the floor and the pan from oozing. Better safe than sorry!

Add Silicone II on the mating surfaces:

Drop the shower pan:

Here, I’m adding wood scraps to ensure the weight is concentrated at the edges of the pan, to make it as flush as possible with the floor:

And let the gravity do its work for about 24 hours:

The next day…

With the bamboo cover:

We couldn’t find a drain adapter small enough that would fit between the frame and the grey tank, so we designed and 3D printed one (Shower Drain Elbow Adapter | 1-1/4″ BSP to 1″ Barb):

The shower drain is plumbed to the grey tank with Trident #100 1″ flex hose. It has a 1.3″ bend radius compared to ~4″ bend radius for 1″ PVC hose. It’s VERY tight under the van, so a flexible hose is a must!

COMING SOON!