Welcome to our Propane System Design Guide! We personally decided to go with propane in our van because propane packs WAY more energy than a battery: for example, our BBQ tank gives us two months of cooking and hot showers before we have to refill it, while a battery would have to be recharged after only a few hours and would require costly upgrades just to make it work… For full-time vanlife like we’re doing, it’s a no-brainer. In the following guide, we will build our knowledge so we can design and build a safe propane system. Keep reading!
2026 update: our second build, FarOutVan 2, is propane-free! We explain why in Propane or All-Electric? just below.
Propane or All-Electric?
This guide was written while building FarOutVan 1, which runs on propane. Before you start buying fittings, though, a heads-up: our second build, FarOutVan 2, is 100% propane-free — we cook on an induction cooktop and an electric oven. Here is how we think about the decision, so you can make your own call.
First, let’s give propane its due: it stores a LOT of energy. A 20 lb BBQ bottle holds about 120 kWh of energy — roughly twelve times FarOutVan 2’s entire 10 kWh battery bank. In Van 1, that translated into about 2 months of daily cooking and hot showers per refill. Induction is more efficient at putting heat into the pan than an open flame, but not nearly enough to close a 12x gap. And that autonomy doesn’t depend on the weather or on how much you drive: for long stationary off-grid stays — winter especially, when solar produces next to nothing — propane is simply the better energy source.
So why did we ditch it for FarOutVan 2? Because the decision is about more than energy:
- One less system: no tank, no vented locker, no copper lines, no leak tests, no refill stops. Designing, building, and maintaining a propane system is real work — skipping it entirely simplifies the build.
- Certification & insurance: a DIY propane install can be tricky to get certified and insured; requirements vary by country, province, and insurer, so check before you build.
- Travel restrictions: propane on board is restricted (or must be declared and shut off) on some ferries and in some tunnels.
- Overseas travel: we plan on shipping the van to Europe, and refilling a North American propane system over there is a headache — most of Europe exchanges bottles rather than refilling them (and no exchange network takes a DOT tank), filling loose bottles at LPG car pumps is prohibited in many countries, fittings differ from country to country, and even the appliance pressure is different. One reader who did it reported getting kicked out of a couple of gas stations before finding one that would fill up their tank.
The flip side: going all-electric ties your autonomy to your battery bank and your charging habits (in our case: solar, shore power, and up to 100A of alternator charging — we drive often enough that it works for us). To put real numbers on it, we log our power consumption — induction cooking, oven, and all — on our power consumption data page, and the Electrical System Guide covers the design side.
Our verdict: if you plan on long off-grid stays (or just don’t want your dinner to depend on an inverter), propane remains an excellent choice — and the rest of this guide is exactly how we built and lived with ours. If simplicity wins for you like it did for us, go electric and skip this guide entirely. 🙂
Campervan Propane System In A Nutshell
The Atwood range, hot shower, and Propex heater are appliances that run on propane in FarOutVan 1:
Propane System Diagram
Sub-Systems:
- Propane Tank (20 lb)Flame King YSN230b, verticalAmazon
- Solenoid ValveAFC-151R propane solenoidAmazon
- RegulatorMarshall Excelsior MEGR-291, two-stageAmazon
- Pressure GaugeLow pressure, 0-15" WC, 1/4" NPT bottom mountAmazon
- RangeSuburban RR17, 17", 3 burners, piezoAmazon
- Propex HeaterPropex HS2000, 6,500 BTUPropex
- Water HeaterCamplux AY132 portable tankless, 1.32 GPMAmazon
- Have your system checked by a professional. We're not responsible for inaccurate information shown here.
Tank Locker:
- Propane Tank (20 lb)Flame King YSN230b, verticalAmazon
- Pigtail Hose12", Acme x 1/4" MPT, braided, pack of 2Amazon
- Street Elbow (1/4" NPT)90-degree, 1/4" NPT male x femaleAmazon
- Solenoid ValveAFC-151R propane solenoidAmazon
- RegulatorMarshall Excelsior MEGR-291, two-stageAmazon
- Flare Elbow90-degree, 3/8" flare x 3/8" NPT maleAmazon
- LP HoseMarshall Excelsior MER61312, 12" x 3/8"Amazon
- Bulkhead Union3/8" flare, through the locker walleBay
Camp Stove Hookup:
- Branch Tee1/4" FPT x MPT x FPTAmazon
- Cylinder Adapter1/4" MPT x 1"-20 throwaway cylinder threadAmazon
- High-Pressure HoseMr. Heater F273711Amazon
Manifold:
- Flare to MPT Adapter3/8" female flare x 1/4" MPT×2Amazon
- Gauge Tee1/4" NPT femaleAmazon
- Pressure GaugeLow pressure, 0-15" WC, 1/4" NPT bottom mountAmazon
- Flare Swivel3/8", instead of the gaugeAmazon
- Flare Cross3/8", SAE 45Amazon
Range:
- Flare Nut (3/8")×4Amazon
- Copper Tubing (3/8")Flexible, 20 ftAmazon
- Gas Ball Valve3/8" flare x flare, brassAmazon
- RangeSuburban RR17, 17", 3 burners, piezoAmazon
Heater:
- Flare Reducer1/4" male flare x 3/8" female flareAmazon
- Flare Nut (1/4")Amazon
- Copper Tubing (1/4")Flexible, 20 ftAmazon
- Propex HeaterPropex HS2000, 6,500 BTUPropex
Water Heater:
- Flare Nut (3/8")×2Amazon
- Copper Tubing (3/8")Flexible, 20 ftAmazon
- Gas Valve3/8" flare x 1/2" FIPAmazon
- Water HeaterCamplux AY132 portable tankless, 1.32 GPMAmazon
Shopping list
Propane Tank
What size?
Choosing the right propane tank size totally depends on what appliances you run and what autonomy you want (days/months with no refill). As a rough guideline, and to help you make a decision, here is our usage living full-time in the van:
- We don’t know the exact consumption of each appliance, but we know that using our Atwood Range every day (oven & stove) and using our Eccotemp shower every other day or so, our 20 pound propane tank lasts roughly 2 months.
- We don’t use our Propex heater much (we prefer to use our Webasto Air Top 2000), but the consumption is 1 pound of propane every 3 hours (remember it cycles though, it’s not running full-time). Our autonomy definitely shrinks a lot if we use the Propex.
Tank Types
3.2.1- Disposable bottle
The 1 pound disposable bottles are OK for occasional camping trips, but expensive and not environmentally friendly in the long run…
Here’s a tip: Any appliance that normally requires small camping propane bottles (camp stove, Mr. Heater Buddy, etc.) can be used with a larger tank (5, 11, 20 pound), thanks to the following adapter. One side connects directly to the propane tank, the other side connects directly to the appliance. No regulator needed. It’s much more economical!
3.2.2- Steel Propane Tank
Also known as a “BBQ Tank”… no explanation needed! OK, here’s a picture just in case…
They’re easy to find in 5, 11 or 20 pound (or more). Here are some common specifications:
* Note that tanks are not filled to their max capacity; this is to leave room for vapor expansion. For example, a 20 pound tank will generally be filled to approx 18 pounds.
** Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
3.2.3- Aluminum Propane Tank
“BBQ Tanks” are also available in aluminum with the following characteristics:
- Lighter than steel (approximately 3 pounds lighter for 2.6 gallon capacity, 5 pounds lighter for 4.6 gallon capacity)
- Does not rust
- Does not spark if ruptured
- Does not have to be painted
- More expensive
They’re easy to find in 10 or 20 pound. Here are some common specifications:
* Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
3.2.4- Composite (Fiberglass) Propane Tank
Here’s a fancy option to impress your neighbors:
- Lighter than steel and aluminum
- See-through (no guesswork to know when to refill)
- Does not rust
- DOT approved for US and Canada
- Must be re-certified every 5 years (from the date of manufacture, not from the purchase date)
- Because it’s not common, some people reported that it makes it harder to refill or re-certify.
They’re easy to find in 11, 17, or 22 pound. Here are some common specifications:
* Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
| Description | Capacity (lb) | Capacity (gal) | Diameter (in) | Height (in) | Empty Weight (lb) | Full Weight (lb) | Buy Link |
| 22 Pound Vertical | 22 | 5.24 | 12 | 22.5 | 12 | 33 | Amazon |
3.2.5- Underbody Propane Tank
- Underbody tanks are either built to the ASME or DOT standard. Tanks built to ASME specification don’t require re-certification, as opposed to DOT specs that require re-certification after 10 years initially and then every 5 years. Therefore, if we were to install an underbody tank, we would choose a tank built to the ASME standard…
- On a side note: portable tanks (such as BBQ tanks) are all built to the DOT standard because the ASME tanks are designed to be stationary and cannot be transported when full.
- Make sure to choose a size that will fit into an underbody cavity. Sorry we can’t help with that because we haven’t installed one ourselves, but here is a legit installation write-up on a Ford Transit: www.fordtransitusaforum.com/170338-post42.html
* ASME tanks don’t require to be re-certified (permanent).
Vented Tank Locker
The pressure inside a tank increases with higher temperature and/or elevation. Too much pressure can also be the result of overfilling the tank. If the pressure becomes too high for the tank’s capacity, excessive pressure will be released through the pressure relief valve. Note that even if the tank’s main valve is completely shut, the pressure relief valve can still release pressure.
Because of the greenhouse effect and because of the change in elevation (when driving), a tank located inside a van is subject to large pressure variation. That’s why we built a vented propane locker to store our propane tank in our van. If the tank was to release pressure, it would be evacuated outside the van!
What about the laws? When transporting a propane tank inside a vehicle, Canadian laws mention that it must be vented (cracked windows or partially opened trunk). We couldn’t find such mention in the USA laws, but there are rumors California laws mention it, too (please tell us if you know where to find such a mention). Law or not, for us it just made sense to build a vented propane locker!
A quick word about the locker access door:
- Propane is heavier than air and will “pool” (sink) to the bottom of the locker.
- It is REALLY HARD to make an access door that’s 100% sealed.
Because of A+B, the propane locker should be top loading. It’s an extra safety measure to minimize the risk. Indeed, if the access door leaks, propane will leak through the door instead of being evacuated through the vent! We see more and more side-loading propane lockers on YouTube and social networks, and that makes us a bit nervous. Even if it is more convenient, a side-loading propane locker is not ABYC compliant. Vans don’t actually need to comply with ABYC, but we see them as having THE highest safety standards; therefore, we like to stick to them.
Regulator
A tank delivers the propane at high pressure (from 100 up to 315 psi depending on temperature and elevation). However, most appliances require low pressure: 11″ Water Column (or 11″ W.C.) pressure is the norm in RV systems (11″ W.C. = 0.4 PSI). The role of the regulator is to deliver a stable 11″ W.C. pressure to the appliances.
Single Stage Regulator
A single stage regulator reduces the pressure to 11″ W.C. in one step. They’re more compact than two stage regulators, but not as accurate and usually not approved for use in RVs.
Two Stage Regulator
A two stage regulator reduces the pressure in two steps. Compared to one stage regulators, they are better at delivering constant 11″ W.C. pressure with temperature changes and as the tank pressure declines. Two stage regulators are not significantly more expensive than one stage and are approved for use in RVs, so that’s what we recommend:
- Marshall Excelsior MEGR-291 (vertical): Buy on Amazon
- Marshall Excelsior MEGR-295 (horizontal with removable POL adapter): Buy on Amazon
- Marshall Excelsior MEGR-298 (horizontal): Buy on Amazon
- Please AVOID Camco regulators, we had a lot of issues with them (and many people reported that as well)
High Pressure (No Regulator)
Appliances that use small 1 pound bottles have their own built-in regulator. Camping stoves, Mr. Heater Buddy heaters, Mr. Heater BOSS showers, among others, work with high pressure. They can be hooked to a full-size propane tank (5#, 11#, 20#, etc.) with an adapter:
Tubing
Tubing Material
Using flexible (rubber) hoses is not recommended as they are not approved for permanent interior installation (they are approved for marine applications, but that’s a different story). Don’t use them outside either as critters like to chew on them!
Use flexible copper tubing with flared fittings. It’s resistant to vibration and sharp edges, and it doesn’t deteriorate with time (as opposed to rubber hose).
Tubing Size
It’s important to select the correct tubing diameter to prevent pressure drop. The correct diameter depends on:
- Max Pressure Drop Acceptable (1/2 W.C. drop is the norm)
- System Pressure (hint: it’s 11″ W.C. for most RV appliances such as the Atwood Range, Propex Heater, Eccotemp Hot Shower, etc)
- Length of tubing (varies according to your installation)
- Capacity (BTU/hr)
Capacity (BTU/hr) as a function of Tubing Length and Outside Diameter for Flexible Copper Tubing at a pressure of 11 W.C:
| Copper Tubing O.D. (in) | Length of tubing between the regulator and the appliance (feet) | ||
| 10 | 20 | 30 | |
| 3/8 | 49,000 BTU/hr | 34,000 BTU/hr | 27,000 BTU/hr |
| 1/2 | 110,000 BTU/hr | 76,000 BTU/hr | 61,000 BTU/hr |
- The Atwood Range has a max of 32,000 BTU/hr (all 3 burners and oven working simultaneously), so we’re allowed 20 feet of 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
- The Eccotemp shower is rated 37,000 BTU/hr, so we’re allowed about 15 feet of 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
- Bottom line: we will use 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing all over! It should be alright for most van installations…
Bending Tubing
Bending the tubing by hand is “OK” (but not ideal) for light bends, but it will most likely create “kinks” for anything more than 45 degrees (kinks are bad because they restrict the flow of gas). It can be prevented, you guessed it, by using the proper tool for the job:
Leak-Free Connections
Flared connections
Flared connections are the preferred type, and they are standard in North America. Flared fittings have a 45 degree chamfer (male or female) that seals the deal. They do not require thread sealant or tape.
To make a flared connection with copper tubing:
1- Cut the copper tubing with a Tubing Cutter:
2- Insert the Flare Nut into the tubing:
Note: Select the appropriate flare nut according to the tubing O.D.; for example, use 3/8″ O.D. flare nut with 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
3- Form the flange using a Flaring Tool:
Note: First make sure the cut is deburred; any burrs that become compressed will leak.
4- Voilà!
It should look like this!
Pipe (NPT) connections
Some appliances or regulators come with NPT connections. NPT fittings don’t have a 45 degree chamfer (see “Not Flared” picture). They require thread sealant (aka “DOPE”, Buy on Amazon) or yellow tape (Buy on Amazon). Do NOT use white Teflon tape! It’s made for water systems, so it will leak gas as it’s not thick enough.
Compression fittings with olive
These are NOT common in North America and should be avoided! They’re mostly designed for liquid or compressed air (not gas). Note that the Propex HS2000 comes with this type of connection; that’s the only place we have one in our system…
Valve
Manual valve
For safety’s sake, we recommended installing a valve (easily accessible) every place the propane line splits to connect to an appliance.
Solenoid valve
A solenoid shut off valve can be added to the propane system, near the tank, to easily shut the propane OFF when not in use. The solenoid valve is OFF at all times (“normally closed”), but turns ON (open) when it’s energized with 12V. As soon as the 12V is removed, the valve shuts OFF. When energized (ON), a solenoid draws a current of about 1 amp (depending on brand/model). It’s the main inconvenience of the solenoid valve: you need constant electrical power to get propane. But it’s actually meant to be like that; in case of an accident, the electrical power would probably go OFF. It’s a safety feature.
Most solenoid valves are meant to be installed on the low pressure side of the propane system; that is after the regulator. We like Century Fuel’s AFC-151R solenoid shut off valve because it can take up to 312 PSI, so it can be installed on the high pressure side (before the regulator) as well, and its 1/4″ MPT port fits directly into the inlet of our propane regulator.
READ THIS:
- Solenoids need constant power to remain ON (open), and, therefore, they get really hot to the touch. They rely on propane flow to cool down, so leaving it ON without using propane will make them even hotter. We get a lot of emails about that… So yeah, it is normal for the solenoid to get very hot!
- Wiring: there is no polarity. In other words, you can connect the positive (+) and negative (-) to any wire of the solenoid.
Pressure Gauge
It’s not mandatory by any means, but a pressure gauge installed on the low pressure side(after the regulator) of the system can be a useful thing: you can quickly tell if your regulator is delivering the correct pressure. Indeed, we had a regulator that failed one day (Camco brand), and we spent hours and hours troubleshooting our Propex heater thinking it was faulty… we have installed that gauge since then:
Note:Always take a reading when at least one appliance is running (dynamic pressure)! Static pressure (no appliance running) will always read higher than 11 WC…
Safety
Checking for leaks
Propane manufacturers add a distinctive skunk or rotten egg smell to propane so you are able to detect right away if there is a major leak. That being said, after installing your propane system, you MUST validate that there are no leaks. To do so, pressurize your system (turn all the valves/solenoid ON) and apply soapy water to each fitting; in other words, on every connection in your system. If there is a leak, you will see bubbles forming.
Gas Detector
Because we turn ON our propane only temporarily for short periods of time (using our solenoid), we personally don’t have a gas detector. However, here’s an option if it makes you feel better:
- This is to detect un-burned gas/propane; in other words, to detect leaks in your system.
- Mount it near the floor (because gas/propane is heavier than air, it will collect near the floor).
Carbon monoxide alarm
We initially had a carbon monoxide alarm without a digital reading, so nothing was telling us that it actually worked… We upgraded to this one for peace of mind:
- This is to detect carbon monoxide (CO), resulting from propane combustion.
- Mount it near the ceiling or floor (because carbon monoxide is almost the same density as air, it will disperse evenly throughout the air in a room).
Smoke Detector
The First Alert P1010 smoke detector (no longer sold; First Alert’s current micro alarm is the SM210M) is tiny and blends perfectly with the decor in our van:
- Mount it near the ceiling.
Tank Level Monitoring
Wireless sensor for smartphone
Our propane tank is located inside the locker, so it’s not exactly convenient to check the propane level. Fortunately, we stumbled upon the Mopeka TankCheck Sensor (Buy on Amazon): this neat device allows us to monitor the level of propane from our smartphone. Nice!
Tank monitoring for Simarine Pico
We personally use the Simarine Pico to monitor the battery bank (%, solar input, etc.), tank level (fresh, grey, Nature’s Head) & temperatures (in, out, fridge, battery, etc.). It is possible to add the propane tank level with the appropriate sensors.
Sensor for vertical tank
Vertical tanks don’t have a provision to add a sensor, but this sensor attaches magnetically to the bottom of a steel tank and makes it possible to read the level of the tank. Note that you must purchase the sensor AND the pre-processor:
Sensor for underbody tank
The ASME Manchester tanks that we recommend have a provision for a level sensor. The sensor output is resistance (not voltage), which can be read by a Simarine module:
Installation
Vented Propane Locker Build
We mentioned earlier that propane might escape from the propane tank from the safety relief valve. This propane has to go somewhere: outside the van sounds about right. To achieve that, we built a sealed box that is vented through the floor with the lid on top (propane is heavier than air). We did not come up with this, this is what marine regulation calls for (some info here).
A quick word about the locker access door:
- Propane is heavier than air and will “pool” (sink) at the bottom of the locker.
- It is REALLY HARD to make an access door that’s 100% sealed.
Because of A+B, the propane locker should be top loading. It’s an extra safety measure to minimize the risk. Indeed, if the access door leaks, propane will leak through the door instead of being evacuated through the vent! We see more and more side-loading propane lockers on YouTube and social networks, and that makes us a bit nervous. Even if it is more convenient, a side-loading propane locker is not ABYC compliant. Vans don’t actually need to comply with ABYC, but we see them as having THE highest safety standards; therefore, we like to stick to them.
First of all, here are the dimensions for a few common propane tanks:
Source: Mission Gas (archived copy)
Propane Tank Dimensions
| DESCRIPTION | SIZE | DIAMETER | HEIGHT |
| WORTHINGTON TANK | |||
| Steel, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.25in | 17.75in |
| Aluminum, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.25in | 20.6in |
| MANCHESTER TANK | |||
| Steel, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.16in | 17.56in |
| Aluminum, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.28in | 20.7in |
And here are the interior dimensions of our propane locker:
We won’t go into the box fabrication details, but let’s just say that the cuts should be perfectly straight to have a good seal! All the edges of the box are glued together; this should seal the deal, but just to make sure, we also applied silicone on all edges inside the box:
We first checked that the propane locker would fit. To clear the aluminum nose stair, we raised the locker with 1/8″ thick MLV leftover we had handy:
We now have to make a hole in the floor. We want that hole to be sealed; if we ever have a water spill, we don’t want water to ingress in between the layers of our floor.
We drilled it using a 1″-5/8 diameter hole saw (Buy on Amazon):
As usual, we must now sand the bare metal edges and apply primer + paint + clearcoat; this is to prevent rust (we went to an auto parts shop, and they prepared paint that matches the color of our van). No picture sorry, so here is a dancing banana instead:
We then inserted a 1″ (inside diameter) PVC pipe in the hole:
And we applied Silicone II (Buy on Amazon) around the pipe inside and outside the van to ensure that no water can ingress in between the floor layers (do not use Silicone I on metal because it’s acidic and might promote rust, while Silicone II, on the other hand, is neutral and safe for metal)!
Marine regulations call for a minimum of ¾” (inside diameter) pipe to ensure proper venting, so we will use that. The ¾” PVC pipe fits very tightly into the locker; we had to use a hammer to put it in place, so it’s not moving from there.
Inside the locker, the ¾” PVC pipe protrude from above the surface (about ¼”) and silicone was applied to ensure a proper seal:
Here is the oddly satisfying part: the ¾” PVC Pipe (fixed to the locker) fit nicely inside the 1″ PVC pipe (fixed to the floor), so the propane locker can be removed/re-installed as needed!
We added a ¾” PVC elbow to prevent crap from entering the locker. It is simply press-fitted into the ¾” PVC pipe:
We’re not done with that box yet. We now have to add the bulkhead union fitting. As extra safety, the fitting should be installed near the TOP of the locker! Propane is heavier than air and will “sink” to the bottom…
Oops… we installed the fitting towards the center, and it’s in the way when we remove the tank! We relocated the bulkhead fitting towards the outside shortly after (not shown in the picture).
A rubber washer was installed outside & inside to ensure a good seal:
A self-adhesive neoprene seal (Buy on Amazon) was added on the cover to ensure sealing:
And finally, we added latches (Buy on Amazon) so the cover can be easily taken off:
Be aware that screwing parallel through the plywood’s layers is not ideal (the layers could separate under tension); but with the adjustable latches, we can fine-tune the tension to the minimum required. We also pre-drilled the screw holes to minimize the tension in the holes.
This is the assembly that’s inside the propane locker:
Solenoid Valve Installation
There is some propane and electrical work to do. It’s quite simple, let’s do it!
Propane.
The solenoid is installed directly into the regulator outlet; we installed a 90° fitting so our assembly fits into the propane locker. (Don’t forget to use yellow tape on the threads!)
Electrical.
We went for a push-button that illuminates when ON; this way, we can’t forget to turn the propane OFF when we’re not using it:
We located the push-button switch at a visible place and where it’s easy to turn it ON:
This is how to wire the switch in a way that the LED illuminates only when it’s ON:
We wish we could find a nice bulkhead fitting to go through the 1/2″ plywood, but we couldn’t, so we just routed the wire and added silicone to seal it…
We used quick-disconnects (Buy on Amazon) for when we need to refill the tank:
When the propane is OPEN, it draws 1.2A (solenoid and switch’s LED combined). For cooking or showering, the electrical power consumption is pretty negligible (around 1-2 Ah per day we’re guessing). When using the Propex heater, it’s a different story: if we ran the Propex all day, it would draw 29Ah daily (1.2A x 24h). That’s not negligible anymore, especially in winter when power is more scarce. In our case, we don’t use the Propex much as it is our backup plan (we prefer to use the gasoline Webasto).
On Second Thought…
- Overall: The design we came up with works as intended, awesome!
- Tank size: Our 20lb tank lasts 2 months on average (without using the Propex), that’s plenty!
- Regulator: We went through 2 Camco regulators, and after some research, we discovered others are having the same issue. This thing doesn’t last more than a year… So we switched to the Marshall regulator (amzn.to/2U2btBK), and it’s all good now 🙂
- FarOutVan 2: our second build is propane-free (full-electric) — not because propane let us down, but for the pros & cons discussed in Propane or All-Electric?.
- That’s it for now.
Are there regulations prohibiting running propane systems near ac/dc lines in a van? How far does the external propane vent need to be from the Van exhaust?
Hey there! Do you see any issues using an NTP bulkhead vs a flared? (Such as: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6NMMTD).
I prefer flared fittings, but if you use NPT make sure to use thread sealant as mentioned here: https://faroutride.com/propane-system/#npt
Hey there! I bought the 1 inch PVC pipe and 3/4 in pvc pipe and for some reason they arent fitting together! the 3/4 is too big to fit into the 1 in pipe. any ideas? thank you
Its 1 and 1/4 pvc.
-Hole saw 1.625
-Inside 1 inch pvc would be overall 1.315
-Inside 1 1/4 pvc would be overall 1.66
Or so i am guessing, did not do it yet.
So the locker box is not secured to the wall or the floor? What keeps it from moving around? Thank you.
We don’t want that box to move around 😉 It’s fixed to the floor with 4 screws.
Do you need a copper gasket where you have 2 brass flare fittings directly connected (ex bulkhead fitting to the hose inside the locker)? It seems like the brass would not compress as easily as the copper and may not make a great seal.
Thanks!
Flare fittings don’t require seal or thread sealant. As mentioned here: https://faroutride.com/propane-system/#flared
Cheers
Hey! Thank you so much for this detailed description. I have two dumb questions for you on the addition of high pressure for the replacement of 1lb tanks.
1. With the hose you have identified, how do you envision getting that in/out of the sealed locker since it has pre-assembled fittings on either end?
2. Do you need a shut-off valve at some point in that line? Or does it not release propane until connected to a stove/appliance?
Hope you all are well.
Can you tell me why you use a two-stage reg instead of a one-stage?
Two stage regulator are better at delivering a precise and constant pressure. Propex manual asks for a two-stage regulator. If you don’t have a Propex, a single stage might be alright.
Cheers
Awesome write up, Thank you!
Thanks for the article! Could you share a link to the Marshall regulator you got? My Camco just failed as well.
Sorry to hear that… here is the Marshall: https://amzn.to/2U2btBK
Hi! I am only using a camp chef oven with propane, and since it has a built in regulator I will just be using the flexible tubing. How would you go about installing the solenoid with flexible tubing?
Would it be OK to have the propane tank on a hitch carrier?
Do you fully remove the propane storage locker when you refill the tank? Or are you just removing the tank from the box?
We only remove the tank, no need to remove the entire locker 🙂
Very curious about the “cost of going all electric” section! Any idea on when it will be complete?
It’s still on our to-do list and don’t know exactly when it’s going to be completed.
Is there a reason your cross fitting is right at the locker? Have a propex heater, and a propane stove. Could I not run 3/8 all the way to the stove with the 1/4 on a T in the middle of the run going to the heater?
Our Propex is near the locker, that’s why we have our cross fitting there 🙂
Hi Isabelle and Antoine,
Thanks for the detailed and beautifully presented write up. We have just bought a Vanagon and the propane system (whilst much simpler than yours) needs some love. You have collected a bunch of useful information here that I could not find elsewhere. Thanks for sharing. Much appreciated.
Neil
Currently going through my design process and stuck on electrical vs gas. I hate the idea of having a huge propane tank in my van, for safety, but understand it has it’s pros. At the top it says you’re still working on that section. Would love to hear your two cents.
Thank you for that beautiful web site! When the section about propane vs all electric section will be up. I want to build in december so i have to decide what kind of power system I want ! 🙂 Have a nice day !
Using the same compressible rubber gasket encased in a plastic nut – the same ones that are used in the plastic RV roof flanges That you can run cables through – are really good solution to running your solenoid wire out from the box!
National Fire Protection Association has it covered on most safety related items on a RV Especially Propane tanks
https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=1192
Thank you for the useful propane system guide.
One minor detail: at https://faroutride.com/propane-system/ item 10.2- GAS DETECTOR it reads: “Mount it near the floor (because gas/propane is lighter than air, it will collect near the floor)”, but it should say “heavier than air” (that is the reason why gas/propane acumulates near the floor).
Best regards,
A/P Daniel F. Larrosa
Montevideo – Uruguay
Indeed…
Fixed. Thanks for the heads up! 🙂