Welcome to our Propane System Design Guide! We personally decided to go with propane in our van because propane packs WAY more energy than a battery: for example, our BBQ tank gives us two months of cooking and hot showers before we have to refill it, while a battery would have to be recharged after only a few hours and would require costly upgrades just to make it work… For full-time vanlife like we’re doing, it’s a no-brainer. In the following guide, we will build our knowledge so we can design and build a safe propane system. Keep reading!
2026 update: our second build, FarOutVan 2, is propane-free! We explain why in Propane or All-Electric? just below.
Propane or All-Electric?
This guide was written while building FarOutVan 1, which runs on propane. Before you start buying fittings, though, a heads-up: our second build, FarOutVan 2, is 100% propane-free — we cook on an induction cooktop and an electric oven. Here is how we think about the decision, so you can make your own call.
First, let’s give propane its due: it stores a LOT of energy. A 20 lb BBQ bottle holds about 120 kWh of energy — roughly twelve times FarOutVan 2’s entire 10 kWh battery bank. In Van 1, that translated into about 2 months of daily cooking and hot showers per refill. Induction is more efficient at putting heat into the pan than an open flame, but not nearly enough to close a 12x gap. And that autonomy doesn’t depend on the weather or on how much you drive: for long stationary off-grid stays — winter especially, when solar produces next to nothing — propane is simply the better energy source.
So why did we ditch it for FarOutVan 2? Because the decision is about more than energy:
- One less system: no tank, no vented locker, no copper lines, no leak tests, no refill stops. Designing, building, and maintaining a propane system is real work — skipping it entirely simplifies the build.
- Certification & insurance: a DIY propane install can be tricky to get certified and insured; requirements vary by country, province, and insurer, so check before you build.
- Travel restrictions: propane on board is restricted (or must be declared and shut off) on some ferries and in some tunnels.
- Overseas travel: we plan on shipping the van to Europe, and refilling a North American propane system over there is a headache — most of Europe exchanges bottles rather than refilling them (and no exchange network takes a DOT tank), filling loose bottles at LPG car pumps is prohibited in many countries, fittings differ from country to country, and even the appliance pressure is different. One reader who did it reported getting kicked out of a couple of gas stations before finding one that would fill up their tank.
The flip side: going all-electric ties your autonomy to your battery bank and your charging habits (in our case: solar, shore power, and up to 100A of alternator charging — we drive often enough that it works for us). To put real numbers on it, we log our power consumption — induction cooking, oven, and all — on our power consumption data page, and the Electrical System Guide covers the design side.
Our verdict: if you plan on long off-grid stays (or just don’t want your dinner to depend on an inverter), propane remains an excellent choice — and the rest of this guide is exactly how we built and lived with ours. If simplicity wins for you like it did for us, go electric and skip this guide entirely. 🙂
Campervan Propane System In A Nutshell
The Atwood range, hot shower, and Propex heater are appliances that run on propane in FarOutVan 1:
Propane System Diagram
Sub-Systems:
- Propane Tank (20 lb)Flame King YSN230b, verticalAmazon
- Solenoid ValveAFC-151R propane solenoidAmazon
- RegulatorMarshall Excelsior MEGR-291, two-stageAmazon
- Pressure GaugeLow pressure, 0-15" WC, 1/4" NPT bottom mountAmazon
- RangeSuburban RR17, 17", 3 burners, piezoAmazon
- Propex HeaterPropex HS2000, 6,500 BTUPropex
- Water HeaterCamplux AY132 portable tankless, 1.32 GPMAmazon
- Have your system checked by a professional. We're not responsible for inaccurate information shown here.
Tank Locker:
- Propane Tank (20 lb)Flame King YSN230b, verticalAmazon
- Pigtail Hose12", Acme x 1/4" MPT, braided, pack of 2Amazon
- Street Elbow (1/4" NPT)90-degree, 1/4" NPT male x femaleAmazon
- Solenoid ValveAFC-151R propane solenoidAmazon
- RegulatorMarshall Excelsior MEGR-291, two-stageAmazon
- Flare Elbow90-degree, 3/8" flare x 3/8" NPT maleAmazon
- LP HoseMarshall Excelsior MER61312, 12" x 3/8"Amazon
- Bulkhead Union3/8" flare, through the locker walleBay
Camp Stove Hookup:
- Branch Tee1/4" FPT x MPT x FPTAmazon
- Cylinder Adapter1/4" MPT x 1"-20 throwaway cylinder threadAmazon
- High-Pressure HoseMr. Heater F273711Amazon
Manifold:
- Flare to MPT Adapter3/8" female flare x 1/4" MPT×2Amazon
- Gauge Tee1/4" NPT femaleAmazon
- Pressure GaugeLow pressure, 0-15" WC, 1/4" NPT bottom mountAmazon
- Flare Swivel3/8", instead of the gaugeAmazon
- Flare Cross3/8", SAE 45Amazon
Range:
- Flare Nut (3/8")×4Amazon
- Copper Tubing (3/8")Flexible, 20 ftAmazon
- Gas Ball Valve3/8" flare x flare, brassAmazon
- RangeSuburban RR17, 17", 3 burners, piezoAmazon
Heater:
- Flare Reducer1/4" male flare x 3/8" female flareAmazon
- Flare Nut (1/4")Amazon
- Copper Tubing (1/4")Flexible, 20 ftAmazon
- Propex HeaterPropex HS2000, 6,500 BTUPropex
Water Heater:
- Flare Nut (3/8")×2Amazon
- Copper Tubing (3/8")Flexible, 20 ftAmazon
- Gas Valve3/8" flare x 1/2" FIPAmazon
- Water HeaterCamplux AY132 portable tankless, 1.32 GPMAmazon
Shopping list
Propane Tank
What size?
Choosing the right propane tank size totally depends on what appliances you run and what autonomy you want (days/months with no refill). As a rough guideline, and to help you make a decision, here is our usage living full-time in the van:
- We don’t know the exact consumption of each appliance, but we know that using our Atwood Range every day (oven & stove) and using our Eccotemp shower every other day or so, our 20 pound propane tank lasts roughly 2 months.
- We don’t use our Propex heater much (we prefer to use our Webasto Air Top 2000), but the consumption is 1 pound of propane every 3 hours (remember it cycles though, it’s not running full-time). Our autonomy definitely shrinks a lot if we use the Propex.
Tank Types
3.2.1- Disposable bottle
The 1 pound disposable bottles are OK for occasional camping trips, but expensive and not environmentally friendly in the long run…
Here’s a tip: Any appliance that normally requires small camping propane bottles (camp stove, Mr. Heater Buddy, etc.) can be used with a larger tank (5, 11, 20 pound), thanks to the following adapter. One side connects directly to the propane tank, the other side connects directly to the appliance. No regulator needed. It’s much more economical!
3.2.2- Steel Propane Tank
Also known as a “BBQ Tank”… no explanation needed! OK, here’s a picture just in case…
They’re easy to find in 5, 11 or 20 pound (or more). Here are some common specifications:
* Note that tanks are not filled to their max capacity; this is to leave room for vapor expansion. For example, a 20 pound tank will generally be filled to approx 18 pounds.
** Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
3.2.3- Aluminum Propane Tank
“BBQ Tanks” are also available in aluminum with the following characteristics:
- Lighter than steel (approximately 3 pounds lighter for 2.6 gallon capacity, 5 pounds lighter for 4.6 gallon capacity)
- Does not rust
- Does not spark if ruptured
- Does not have to be painted
- More expensive
They’re easy to find in 10 or 20 pound. Here are some common specifications:
* Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
3.2.4- Composite (Fiberglass) Propane Tank
Here’s a fancy option to impress your neighbors:
- Lighter than steel and aluminum
- See-through (no guesswork to know when to refill)
- Does not rust
- DOT approved for US and Canada
- Must be re-certified every 5 years (from the date of manufacture, not from the purchase date)
- Because it’s not common, some people reported that it makes it harder to refill or re-certify.
They’re easy to find in 11, 17, or 22 pound. Here are some common specifications:
* Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
| Description | Capacity (lb) | Capacity (gal) | Diameter (in) | Height (in) | Empty Weight (lb) | Full Weight (lb) | Buy Link |
| 22 Pound Vertical | 22 | 5.24 | 12 | 22.5 | 12 | 33 | Amazon |
3.2.5- Underbody Propane Tank
- Underbody tanks are either built to the ASME or DOT standard. Tanks built to ASME specification don’t require re-certification, as opposed to DOT specs that require re-certification after 10 years initially and then every 5 years. Therefore, if we were to install an underbody tank, we would choose a tank built to the ASME standard…
- On a side note: portable tanks (such as BBQ tanks) are all built to the DOT standard because the ASME tanks are designed to be stationary and cannot be transported when full.
- Make sure to choose a size that will fit into an underbody cavity. Sorry we can’t help with that because we haven’t installed one ourselves, but here is a legit installation write-up on a Ford Transit: www.fordtransitusaforum.com/170338-post42.html
* ASME tanks don’t require to be re-certified (permanent).
Vented Tank Locker
The pressure inside a tank increases with higher temperature and/or elevation. Too much pressure can also be the result of overfilling the tank. If the pressure becomes too high for the tank’s capacity, excessive pressure will be released through the pressure relief valve. Note that even if the tank’s main valve is completely shut, the pressure relief valve can still release pressure.
Because of the greenhouse effect and because of the change in elevation (when driving), a tank located inside a van is subject to large pressure variation. That’s why we built a vented propane locker to store our propane tank in our van. If the tank was to release pressure, it would be evacuated outside the van!
What about the laws? When transporting a propane tank inside a vehicle, Canadian laws mention that it must be vented (cracked windows or partially opened trunk). We couldn’t find such mention in the USA laws, but there are rumors California laws mention it, too (please tell us if you know where to find such a mention). Law or not, for us it just made sense to build a vented propane locker!
A quick word about the locker access door:
- Propane is heavier than air and will “pool” (sink) to the bottom of the locker.
- It is REALLY HARD to make an access door that’s 100% sealed.
Because of A+B, the propane locker should be top loading. It’s an extra safety measure to minimize the risk. Indeed, if the access door leaks, propane will leak through the door instead of being evacuated through the vent! We see more and more side-loading propane lockers on YouTube and social networks, and that makes us a bit nervous. Even if it is more convenient, a side-loading propane locker is not ABYC compliant. Vans don’t actually need to comply with ABYC, but we see them as having THE highest safety standards; therefore, we like to stick to them.
Regulator
A tank delivers the propane at high pressure (from 100 up to 315 psi depending on temperature and elevation). However, most appliances require low pressure: 11″ Water Column (or 11″ W.C.) pressure is the norm in RV systems (11″ W.C. = 0.4 PSI). The role of the regulator is to deliver a stable 11″ W.C. pressure to the appliances.
Single Stage Regulator
A single stage regulator reduces the pressure to 11″ W.C. in one step. They’re more compact than two stage regulators, but not as accurate and usually not approved for use in RVs.
Two Stage Regulator
A two stage regulator reduces the pressure in two steps. Compared to one stage regulators, they are better at delivering constant 11″ W.C. pressure with temperature changes and as the tank pressure declines. Two stage regulators are not significantly more expensive than one stage and are approved for use in RVs, so that’s what we recommend:
- Marshall Excelsior MEGR-291 (vertical): Buy on Amazon
- Marshall Excelsior MEGR-295 (horizontal with removable POL adapter): Buy on Amazon
- Marshall Excelsior MEGR-298 (horizontal): Buy on Amazon
- Please AVOID Camco regulators, we had a lot of issues with them (and many people reported that as well)
High Pressure (No Regulator)
Appliances that use small 1 pound bottles have their own built-in regulator. Camping stoves, Mr. Heater Buddy heaters, Mr. Heater BOSS showers, among others, work with high pressure. They can be hooked to a full-size propane tank (5#, 11#, 20#, etc.) with an adapter:
Tubing
Tubing Material
Using flexible (rubber) hoses is not recommended as they are not approved for permanent interior installation (they are approved for marine applications, but that’s a different story). Don’t use them outside either as critters like to chew on them!
Use flexible copper tubing with flared fittings. It’s resistant to vibration and sharp edges, and it doesn’t deteriorate with time (as opposed to rubber hose).
Tubing Size
It’s important to select the correct tubing diameter to prevent pressure drop. The correct diameter depends on:
- Max Pressure Drop Acceptable (1/2 W.C. drop is the norm)
- System Pressure (hint: it’s 11″ W.C. for most RV appliances such as the Atwood Range, Propex Heater, Eccotemp Hot Shower, etc)
- Length of tubing (varies according to your installation)
- Capacity (BTU/hr)
Capacity (BTU/hr) as a function of Tubing Length and Outside Diameter for Flexible Copper Tubing at a pressure of 11 W.C:
| Copper Tubing O.D. (in) | Length of tubing between the regulator and the appliance (feet) | ||
| 10 | 20 | 30 | |
| 3/8 | 49,000 BTU/hr | 34,000 BTU/hr | 27,000 BTU/hr |
| 1/2 | 110,000 BTU/hr | 76,000 BTU/hr | 61,000 BTU/hr |
- The Atwood Range has a max of 32,000 BTU/hr (all 3 burners and oven working simultaneously), so we’re allowed 20 feet of 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
- The Eccotemp shower is rated 37,000 BTU/hr, so we’re allowed about 15 feet of 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
- Bottom line: we will use 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing all over! It should be alright for most van installations…
Bending Tubing
Bending the tubing by hand is “OK” (but not ideal) for light bends, but it will most likely create “kinks” for anything more than 45 degrees (kinks are bad because they restrict the flow of gas). It can be prevented, you guessed it, by using the proper tool for the job:
Leak-Free Connections
Flared connections
Flared connections are the preferred type, and they are standard in North America. Flared fittings have a 45 degree chamfer (male or female) that seals the deal. They do not require thread sealant or tape.
To make a flared connection with copper tubing:
1- Cut the copper tubing with a Tubing Cutter:
2- Insert the Flare Nut into the tubing:
Note: Select the appropriate flare nut according to the tubing O.D.; for example, use 3/8″ O.D. flare nut with 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
3- Form the flange using a Flaring Tool:
Note: First make sure the cut is deburred; any burrs that become compressed will leak.
4- Voilà!
It should look like this!
Pipe (NPT) connections
Some appliances or regulators come with NPT connections. NPT fittings don’t have a 45 degree chamfer (see “Not Flared” picture). They require thread sealant (aka “DOPE”, Buy on Amazon) or yellow tape (Buy on Amazon). Do NOT use white Teflon tape! It’s made for water systems, so it will leak gas as it’s not thick enough.
Compression fittings with olive
These are NOT common in North America and should be avoided! They’re mostly designed for liquid or compressed air (not gas). Note that the Propex HS2000 comes with this type of connection; that’s the only place we have one in our system…
Valve
Manual valve
For safety’s sake, we recommended installing a valve (easily accessible) every place the propane line splits to connect to an appliance.
Solenoid valve
A solenoid shut off valve can be added to the propane system, near the tank, to easily shut the propane OFF when not in use. The solenoid valve is OFF at all times (“normally closed”), but turns ON (open) when it’s energized with 12V. As soon as the 12V is removed, the valve shuts OFF. When energized (ON), a solenoid draws a current of about 1 amp (depending on brand/model). It’s the main inconvenience of the solenoid valve: you need constant electrical power to get propane. But it’s actually meant to be like that; in case of an accident, the electrical power would probably go OFF. It’s a safety feature.
Most solenoid valves are meant to be installed on the low pressure side of the propane system; that is after the regulator. We like Century Fuel’s AFC-151R solenoid shut off valve because it can take up to 312 PSI, so it can be installed on the high pressure side (before the regulator) as well, and its 1/4″ MPT port fits directly into the inlet of our propane regulator.
READ THIS:
- Solenoids need constant power to remain ON (open), and, therefore, they get really hot to the touch. They rely on propane flow to cool down, so leaving it ON without using propane will make them even hotter. We get a lot of emails about that… So yeah, it is normal for the solenoid to get very hot!
- Wiring: there is no polarity. In other words, you can connect the positive (+) and negative (-) to any wire of the solenoid.
Pressure Gauge
It’s not mandatory by any means, but a pressure gauge installed on the low pressure side(after the regulator) of the system can be a useful thing: you can quickly tell if your regulator is delivering the correct pressure. Indeed, we had a regulator that failed one day (Camco brand), and we spent hours and hours troubleshooting our Propex heater thinking it was faulty… we have installed that gauge since then:
Note:Always take a reading when at least one appliance is running (dynamic pressure)! Static pressure (no appliance running) will always read higher than 11 WC…
Safety
Checking for leaks
Propane manufacturers add a distinctive skunk or rotten egg smell to propane so you are able to detect right away if there is a major leak. That being said, after installing your propane system, you MUST validate that there are no leaks. To do so, pressurize your system (turn all the valves/solenoid ON) and apply soapy water to each fitting; in other words, on every connection in your system. If there is a leak, you will see bubbles forming.
Gas Detector
Because we turn ON our propane only temporarily for short periods of time (using our solenoid), we personally don’t have a gas detector. However, here’s an option if it makes you feel better:
- This is to detect un-burned gas/propane; in other words, to detect leaks in your system.
- Mount it near the floor (because gas/propane is heavier than air, it will collect near the floor).
Carbon monoxide alarm
We initially had a carbon monoxide alarm without a digital reading, so nothing was telling us that it actually worked… We upgraded to this one for peace of mind:
- This is to detect carbon monoxide (CO), resulting from propane combustion.
- Mount it near the ceiling or floor (because carbon monoxide is almost the same density as air, it will disperse evenly throughout the air in a room).
Smoke Detector
The First Alert P1010 smoke detector (no longer sold; First Alert’s current micro alarm is the SM210M) is tiny and blends perfectly with the decor in our van:
- Mount it near the ceiling.
Tank Level Monitoring
Wireless sensor for smartphone
Our propane tank is located inside the locker, so it’s not exactly convenient to check the propane level. Fortunately, we stumbled upon the Mopeka TankCheck Sensor (Buy on Amazon): this neat device allows us to monitor the level of propane from our smartphone. Nice!
Tank monitoring for Simarine Pico
We personally use the Simarine Pico to monitor the battery bank (%, solar input, etc.), tank level (fresh, grey, Nature’s Head) & temperatures (in, out, fridge, battery, etc.). It is possible to add the propane tank level with the appropriate sensors.
Sensor for vertical tank
Vertical tanks don’t have a provision to add a sensor, but this sensor attaches magnetically to the bottom of a steel tank and makes it possible to read the level of the tank. Note that you must purchase the sensor AND the pre-processor:
Sensor for underbody tank
The ASME Manchester tanks that we recommend have a provision for a level sensor. The sensor output is resistance (not voltage), which can be read by a Simarine module:
Installation
Vented Propane Locker Build
We mentioned earlier that propane might escape from the propane tank from the safety relief valve. This propane has to go somewhere: outside the van sounds about right. To achieve that, we built a sealed box that is vented through the floor with the lid on top (propane is heavier than air). We did not come up with this, this is what marine regulation calls for (some info here).
A quick word about the locker access door:
- Propane is heavier than air and will “pool” (sink) at the bottom of the locker.
- It is REALLY HARD to make an access door that’s 100% sealed.
Because of A+B, the propane locker should be top loading. It’s an extra safety measure to minimize the risk. Indeed, if the access door leaks, propane will leak through the door instead of being evacuated through the vent! We see more and more side-loading propane lockers on YouTube and social networks, and that makes us a bit nervous. Even if it is more convenient, a side-loading propane locker is not ABYC compliant. Vans don’t actually need to comply with ABYC, but we see them as having THE highest safety standards; therefore, we like to stick to them.
First of all, here are the dimensions for a few common propane tanks:
Source: Mission Gas (archived copy)
Propane Tank Dimensions
| DESCRIPTION | SIZE | DIAMETER | HEIGHT |
| WORTHINGTON TANK | |||
| Steel, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.25in | 17.75in |
| Aluminum, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.25in | 20.6in |
| MANCHESTER TANK | |||
| Steel, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.16in | 17.56in |
| Aluminum, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.28in | 20.7in |
And here are the interior dimensions of our propane locker:
We won’t go into the box fabrication details, but let’s just say that the cuts should be perfectly straight to have a good seal! All the edges of the box are glued together; this should seal the deal, but just to make sure, we also applied silicone on all edges inside the box:
We first checked that the propane locker would fit. To clear the aluminum nose stair, we raised the locker with 1/8″ thick MLV leftover we had handy:
We now have to make a hole in the floor. We want that hole to be sealed; if we ever have a water spill, we don’t want water to ingress in between the layers of our floor.
We drilled it using a 1″-5/8 diameter hole saw (Buy on Amazon):
As usual, we must now sand the bare metal edges and apply primer + paint + clearcoat; this is to prevent rust (we went to an auto parts shop, and they prepared paint that matches the color of our van). No picture sorry, so here is a dancing banana instead:
We then inserted a 1″ (inside diameter) PVC pipe in the hole:
And we applied Silicone II (Buy on Amazon) around the pipe inside and outside the van to ensure that no water can ingress in between the floor layers (do not use Silicone I on metal because it’s acidic and might promote rust, while Silicone II, on the other hand, is neutral and safe for metal)!
Marine regulations call for a minimum of ¾” (inside diameter) pipe to ensure proper venting, so we will use that. The ¾” PVC pipe fits very tightly into the locker; we had to use a hammer to put it in place, so it’s not moving from there.
Inside the locker, the ¾” PVC pipe protrude from above the surface (about ¼”) and silicone was applied to ensure a proper seal:
Here is the oddly satisfying part: the ¾” PVC Pipe (fixed to the locker) fit nicely inside the 1″ PVC pipe (fixed to the floor), so the propane locker can be removed/re-installed as needed!
We added a ¾” PVC elbow to prevent crap from entering the locker. It is simply press-fitted into the ¾” PVC pipe:
We’re not done with that box yet. We now have to add the bulkhead union fitting. As extra safety, the fitting should be installed near the TOP of the locker! Propane is heavier than air and will “sink” to the bottom…
Oops… we installed the fitting towards the center, and it’s in the way when we remove the tank! We relocated the bulkhead fitting towards the outside shortly after (not shown in the picture).
A rubber washer was installed outside & inside to ensure a good seal:
A self-adhesive neoprene seal (Buy on Amazon) was added on the cover to ensure sealing:
And finally, we added latches (Buy on Amazon) so the cover can be easily taken off:
Be aware that screwing parallel through the plywood’s layers is not ideal (the layers could separate under tension); but with the adjustable latches, we can fine-tune the tension to the minimum required. We also pre-drilled the screw holes to minimize the tension in the holes.
This is the assembly that’s inside the propane locker:
Solenoid Valve Installation
There is some propane and electrical work to do. It’s quite simple, let’s do it!
Propane.
The solenoid is installed directly into the regulator outlet; we installed a 90° fitting so our assembly fits into the propane locker. (Don’t forget to use yellow tape on the threads!)
Electrical.
We went for a push-button that illuminates when ON; this way, we can’t forget to turn the propane OFF when we’re not using it:
We located the push-button switch at a visible place and where it’s easy to turn it ON:
This is how to wire the switch in a way that the LED illuminates only when it’s ON:
We wish we could find a nice bulkhead fitting to go through the 1/2″ plywood, but we couldn’t, so we just routed the wire and added silicone to seal it…
We used quick-disconnects (Buy on Amazon) for when we need to refill the tank:
When the propane is OPEN, it draws 1.2A (solenoid and switch’s LED combined). For cooking or showering, the electrical power consumption is pretty negligible (around 1-2 Ah per day we’re guessing). When using the Propex heater, it’s a different story: if we ran the Propex all day, it would draw 29Ah daily (1.2A x 24h). That’s not negligible anymore, especially in winter when power is more scarce. In our case, we don’t use the Propex much as it is our backup plan (we prefer to use the gasoline Webasto).
On Second Thought…
- Overall: The design we came up with works as intended, awesome!
- Tank size: Our 20lb tank lasts 2 months on average (without using the Propex), that’s plenty!
- Regulator: We went through 2 Camco regulators, and after some research, we discovered others are having the same issue. This thing doesn’t last more than a year… So we switched to the Marshall regulator (amzn.to/2U2btBK), and it’s all good now 🙂
- FarOutVan 2: our second build is propane-free (full-electric) — not because propane let us down, but for the pros & cons discussed in Propane or All-Electric?.
- That’s it for now.
Did you consider a solenoid switch with some sort of auto shut-off after a delay? I am sure I’d forget to turn the propane switch off at some point and aside from being less safe it would put extra load on the battery. I think it might be a good idea but can’t find any products that seem to do just this. A mechanical knob switch like some people have for bathroom fans might work but I like the rocker switch and light, and am also thinking there might be a reason this is not done.
Hi
I am building out a 2019 Ford Transit just like your unit. I have used your electrical diagram extensively as well as the propane diagram. I paid for both and have bought everything through the Amazon links. Thanks so much. You are a great resource. Did you use a 120 volt fuse block to distribute your power from the inverter to your receptacles/loads? If so can you give me a link? I have a 2200 watt inverter that powers a 1800 watt induction cooktop and a couple receptacles for the laptop and misc. small appliances? Thanks so much Tim
We only installed one 120V outlet, so we didn’t use a distribution panel; we kept things simple:
We bought an heavy-duty extension cord (such as https://amzn.to/2T86Bgf) and plugged it into the inverter outlet. Then we cut the other end of the extension cord and connected it to a 120V outlet (https://amzn.to/2XpFgoe). We didn’t add a fuse/breaker, as we rely on the one built-in inside the inverter. That’s it! If you do this, just make sure to choose an extension cable and an outlet that are rated for higher current than your inverter max current (10A vs 15A vs 20A, etc).
Have a good day!
Hey! Thanks again!..Wondering how you lined up the PVC pipe from the locker to the PVC pipe thru the floor? Dont want to wing it when cutting thru the floor haha
Ive followed your guide pretty much to the tee, other then some elbows.. ive bought the recommended solonoid, I bought the recommended 2 stage regulator, and I bought the recommended pressure gauge. I then cross branch off to an oven, a Girard water heater and a suburban furnace. I completed all of my connections and was in the stage of leak testing the system and noticed my pressure gauge was reading 15+” so I’m wondering how to test if my regulator is supplying too much propane, or if my gauge is mis reading. What do you suggest my next move is?
Is your ready static? It is normal to read 15+ when you’re not using any appliance. So make sure to run at least run something (like the furnace) and THEN take your reading.
Let me know,
antoine
I tried running my stove because it has an additional little regulator in it and I left like that would combat against too much pressure. The pressure gauge went from 1/4inch from the pin (past 15″) and when I opened up a burner and lit it, there was only a second of dropped pressure (still over 15″) but then went right back up to well over 15″. I tried this with one, then two, then all three burners and the same thing happened. I don’t want to test it on the furnace because it says on it 10WC and on my water heater it says 14WC MAX. Is there any potential that these appliances could be damaged but having this amount of pressure? Any suggestions? Is it the regulator? I bought the one you suggest in your blog post but other then it stating it’s “ideally suited for high demand RV, outdoor appliances, cabins, seasonal homes, gas fire places, water heaters, ranges or other moderate to low demand domestic home installations.” I don’t see it stating the WCs anywhere. What do you think?
This is the same model we personally use and we get around 11 WC. It is factory set to 11 W.C. but there could be some tolerance.
According to https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Two-Stage-End-Vent-Propane-Regulator-p/06-0449.htm:
“Output pressure is 11″ WC, adjustable from approx 9-13”
Could be the regulator, could be the pressure gauge… The only way to tell is to have them tested at a propane store, I’m thinking. Or get new ones from Amazon and have these one refunded…
Good luck!
have you heard of using a new gas flex connection kit for connect to propane tanks? I wondered if this was just as quality of an option as doing copper tubing.
Not heard of, sorry!
Antoine,
Thanks for your diagrams of which I have purchased three. I purchased a Propex HS 2211 and am studying your diagram as I prepare to install it. The HS 2211 (like the HS 2000) specifies a 5/16″ pipe but allows you to use 1/4″ “with an adaptor”. I am having troubling finding a 3/8″ to 5/16″ reducer so I will use a 1/4″ pipe as you did. Can you tell me what adaptor you had to use to connect the 1/4″ pipe into the Propex heater?
If you buy the Propex from a North-American supplier, the install kit should come with the adapter.
Thank you. I found the adapter.
Hi Antoine,
As always, I love your detailed post! I have a question…
I’m using a Camp Chef camping stove rated at max 40,000 BTU/hr. But it normally runs off of 1lb cylinders. I see you have an adapter hose that goes straight to the propane box, but that wouldn’t work in my setup because the propane is going to be stored too far away (I have a bus conversion, not a van conversion). Am I able to run high pressure propane through copper tubing to add a connection closer to my stove that I can connect to? And if so, does the formula for calculating what size tubing change if I’m using high pressure? If I can’t run high pressure through copper tubing, is there a safe way to get the propane to my stove, or do I need to rework my entire plan to get the propane locker closer to the stove? Also, why is a rubber tube acceptable when using an adapter, but not for everything else?
Thanks!
A tank normally contain about 145 PSI, but can go as high as 315 PSI if left in the sun (pressure increases with heat). On the other hand, copper tubing has working pressure at around 600/900 PSI, so you can use it for high pressure application. See copper tubing specifications here: https://www.lp-gasequipment.com/docs/Copper_Tubing_Ratings.pdf
I wouldn’t worry about pressure drop, as the built-in regulator in your stove will deliver the correct pressure.
Cheers
Hi Guys,
I am a little curious why you do not include or have a propane alarm. It’s pretty standard on RV insulations, and I don’t think it uses too much power, less than 100 mA or something like that. Would have warned you of your propane incident, where the knob was bumped.
Or is it in some other category and I just missed it!
You have power to that side one the van, you could just use the live lead for the propane solenoid. Actually, you could even control it with that switch, as the propane is unlikely to alarm when the tank is shut off.
The other thing, did you mention how you did your copper tubing bends? I am filling mine with salt…
Cheers,
Don
We don’t have an alarm, since we turn off the tank with the solenoid when we don’t need propane.
We bent the copper by hand… not ideal, but it works for mellow bends. I think next time we would get this tool: https://amzn.to/35zUFph
Addendum to previous post: If you are using the cool Ulincos switch that Antoine suggested, you need a larger amp bulb, like an old incandescent brake light or rear light bulb, which draw about 2 amps at a full 12V I think. The small amp bulbs won’t allow enuf current to activate the blue light in the Ulincos switch. (but if you wish to save your battery…)
The voltage drop over the brake light (in series with the solenoid) is about 2.5 V, so the real amps in this case is less than 0.5 A. And the voltage across the solenoid is about 9 or 10 volts, which is why it doesnt heat up.
Hey Don, do you have any advice for how to get one of these bulbs mounted and connected to the circuit? Are there some out there with spade connectors? Or do you have a stand-alone socket for one of these bulbs that can then be wired in? Thanks!
I found a single bulb holder for a normal old fashion 12V rear brake light.
Alas, I have not really been happy with any solution for covering bulb. It’s getting hard to find something what with LED everything taking over. Right now, the bulb sets in the little hole at the bottom of the back door frame, not really in the way of anything.
For all who worry about the solenoid getting warm or hot: put a 12 V incandescent light in series (not parallel!) with the solenoid, a little dash light is best. Incandescent lights have almost no resistance when cool, so when you flip on the solenoid, you have full voltage to pull the solenoid switch open. Then, when the light gets hot, the light becomes a resistor and the voltage to the solenoid is dropped; that’s okay, it doesn’t need full voltage to remain open. And your solenoid will stay cool as a cucumber.
In terms of power use, I think the light/solenoid uses less power than running the solenoid by itself. (Based on first principles; I haven’t actually checked.)
I put my light outside the locker at the back of the van so when I want to play with the propane, I can see if the switch is on or off.
Enjoy!
Thanks so much for this resource. But, I think it’s worth pointing out that the ABYC rules suggest the splits and pressure gauge should all be in the locker, not in the living space. One should have a single uninterrupted line from the locker to each appliance. http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Safe%20Boat%20propane%20Installation.htm. They also suggest the pressure gauge, for performing a leak test, should go upstream of the regulator.
Oops — just realized my comment should have been directed towards Hayden, not Richard!
To respond to Richard….
I found a really nice bulkhead fitting on Amazon that allows you to pass a hose through it: Trident Marine 1438-8439 L.P. Gas Straight Thru Fitting, 1/2″
Also, a question: I am routing my Propex heater duct through the kitchen cabinet, right alongside of my 10 gal plastic fresh water tank. Form your experience, does the duct get hot enough to warm up that cabinet enough to prevent my water from freezing? If not, what are you guys using to keep water from freezing?
Thanks again for all you’ve shared with everyone!
The duct get quite hot; so it should help.
In our case, we live full time in the van so we never let the temperature go below freezing!
Hi A,
I haven’t checked through the comments carefully, but I am pretty sure you used a 1 1/4″ pipe (ID) in the floor not a 1″. You haf to hammer a 3/4″ pipe into a 1″ and the 1″ pipe sometimes split. In any case, it does not go in easily. Furthermore, a 1″ pipe would fall right out of a 1 5/8″ hole, but you said you had to force it a little. A 1 1/4″ pipe has an OD of 1.66″, and that would sort of fit. You should measure it if it’s not too wet.
-d
PS, liked your new van drawings!
I just discovered the same issue. 1″ falls right through the 1 5/8″ hole I drilled. Tried all sorts of things to get it to stay but ended up with a giant mess.
Then to get 3/4″ through the 1″, in a test, I had to heat up the 1″ with a heat gun and then was able to slide it through.
Going to test the 1 1/4″ pipe and see how it goes.
I purchased the same solenoid. Does your solenoid get extremely warm/hot to the touch? I installed mine today and turned it on and within a minute it was really warm/hot. I’ve never done this before and just curious is this is normal. Thanks.
It’s normal. It relies on flow of propane to cool down, so it’s a good practice to turn it off when you’re not using propane.
I’ve been using a camping stove instead of an atwood range or similar. If I want to add the optional hose to replace disposable 1lb tanks, how would I get the hose out of the gas locker? Is there a second bulkhead missing from the diagram for this?
Because we used the high-pressure hose only for our showers (Mr. Heater aquacube at first, we then changed for the Eccotemp which is low-pressure), we just removed the locker cover when using it. Your situation is a bit different, I guess you need high-pressure at all time so removing the cover is not an option; I don’t know if there’s a bulkhead fitting that you can install… or maybe use copper tubing similar to the low-pressure?
I almost went with a propane tank mounted under my transit. (and may still have to). Reading your build of the propane locker with good venting and a well sealed box gave me pause to consider the same. The tank is definitely cheaper and the area where the undermount tank would have gone is still itching to have a grey water tank installed there instead. I am sold on its safety and it does make things a lot simpler. When you refill your tank do you have to remove it from the box each time? If so what do you think of those tank exchanges that stores like LOWES has? I am inclined to keep my own tank but was curious what you thought of those. ( Its quick, easy, and convenient but you keep getting a stranger’s tank…). Here is my special problem and I would value your opinion. I imagine you have to remove your tank for each refill. Although my garage is large enough to fit the propane locker, its not tall enough to lift out the tank. Where you have 40″ from floor to bed beam, I have 20″. My van is the medium high one. Obviously our bikes are not stored in the garage. Our garage height was determined by comfort in bed, ability to slip a kayak under the bed and what space we needed for battery bank, water tanks, ec. etc. So here is the dilemma. Instead of the propane locker having a removable top, mine would have to have a removable side. I would be able to slide the tank out for refilling. I would still have the adhesive neoprene seal, and four or six pull tight latches. So my question is: since propane is heavier than air, with your TOP being removable, were you confident with the neoprene seal because the propane would not build up there but would gather on the floor and out the vent? In my situation, (removable side piece) the neoprene seal would go down to the floor level. Is that seal good enough ? what do you think? My other options are back to the undermount propane tank, or fashioning a hatch cover under the mattress. Of course this means a not so convenient refilling situation (move bedding, mattress((we use a heavy futon)), hatch removal, all the disconnections etc etc.). So Antoine, Isabel, do have time to venture an opinion? Would love to hear it. Rich and Charlotte.
Hi Richard,
– Yes, we have to remove the tank each time (once every two month). We don’t mind it since is not frequent.
– Exchanging a bottle is generally much more expensive than a refill but it would work.
– I wouldn’t recommend a propane locker with a side-door, since it relies on a perfect seal. There’s a reason why all the marine propane locker have the door on top (propane is heavier than air and sink at the bottom)…
Good luck!
Antoine
Greetings! Thanks for the extensive write-up. I’m buying the propane diagram for sure?
I’m heavily modifying a Sprinter based motorhome (2006 Itaska Navion 23J) for international travel. Since I’ve eliminated some propane hogs (refrigerator, generator & furnace), I want to remove the existing LP system and install a simple, 20# bottle and system like you did. This mod will save weight and greatly facilitate LP procurement, since my current ACME 1 3/4″ fill valve isn’t common abroad. I still have a water heater, cooktop and outside grill quick connect hookup. I also have an LP conversion dual fuel kit on my Honda 2000 gas generator, but won’t be using that much.
Question: After being on the road 2 years, what would you do differently on propane design? Or, have you incorporated these thoughts into the diagram currently on the site? Thanks so much.
John
Hi John,
The solenoid is something we added later on and, as you know, we incorporated it to our diagram. So yeah, the diagram is how we would build our propane system if we had to start over.
The downside with our system is that the propane tank uses a considerable amount of space inside the van… there’s no perfect solution, it’s all about finding the best compromise 🙂
Hope that helps,
Antoine
Thanks Antoine,
Your comment does help. I’m a cold weather traveler. Locating the gas bottle/regulator inside the heated envelope is a benefit that partially offsets the downside of reduced storage. More and more and especially in South America, propane comes mixed with butane. Butane is no friend of cold temperatures, so I like the bottle and regulator inside.
Thanks and good luck.
John
Hi there! Just want to say thanks for all the awesome tutorials, I have learned so much from your posts! Quick question about the hose adapter. I am going to use a “bbq” propane tank for my camp stove and tankless water heater (similar to your water heater). Is it as simple as tank > hose > valve > water heater? Do I need a regulator? Thanks so much!
Robyn
You most likely need a regulator. Check the owner manual to find out what’s the pressure required for your water heater; if it’s 11WC, you need a regulator.
So it should look like: tank > regulator > hose > valve > water heater.
Good luck!
Wow. Awesome website and I visit it often. I’m currently working on my propane systems so, here I am tonight reading it for ideas. I also read some of the comments and wanted to share an article from the marine application regarding the solenoid placed inside the propane locker, https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Safe-Propane-Installations. I hope this helps others too who have valid concerns of where to place the solenoid and the issue of an electrical item inside the propane locker. Thanks for sharing your amazing website and content.