4.1.1. Slide the seat backward and remove the screw (7mm hex socket) to disconnect the electrical harness under the seat:

4.1.2. Pull the retaining clip down to detach the electrical harness from the seat (no tool required, it’s fairly easy):

4.1.3. Still with the seat backward, remove the 2 front screws (10mm hex socket):

4.1.4. Slide the seat forward and then remove the 2 back screws (10mm hex socket):

4.1.5. Put the seat aside, get into the seat base, and hand-pull the 2 clips to detach the electrical harness from the seat base. This is to give the electrical harness some slack during the rotation:

4.2.1. During the rotation, the seat rails may rub against the door (passenger or driver) and might eventually damage it. We didn’t do anything to mitigate that on our previous van, and we honestly don’t think it’s that big of a deal:

4.2.2. But if you’d rather do something to prevent damaging the door, now would be a good time to trim the rails. We trimmed only a small angle and that was enough to clear the door (don’t forget to touch up with paint):

Place the Scopema swivel on the seat base, route the electrical harness in the center, and install the 4 screws (5mm hex bit or 5mm Allen key). The holes might not be perfectly aligned, that’s OK. Start by installing each screw with just a few threads in, then once all 4 are fitted, torque them all the way in.

4.4.1. Place the seat on top of the Scopema swivel and route the harness behind the bar (towards the back of the van) so it doesn’t catch during the rotation:

4.4.2. Still with the seat forward, install the bolts, washers & screws (13mm hex socket on top, 13mm wrench/adjustable wrench at the bottom):

4.4.3. Slide the seat backward and install the bolts, washers & screws (13mm hex socket on top, 13mm wrench/adjustable wrench at the bottom):

FIY. This is the correct way of assembling the 13mm bolt, washer & 13mm nut at the seat/swivel interface (2 previous steps):

4.4.4. Reconnect the electrical harness (7mm hex socket):

4.5.1. We used a Dremel to trim the baby seat anchor, but we would recommend a mini hack saw instead. Sparks (tiny metal chips) can stick to surfaces and promote rust. Metal chips from a mini hack saw would be easier to catch!

4.5.2. Smooth the sharp edges (by sanding), clean & touch up the bare metal with corrosion-resistant paint. We used Rust-Oleum, but it’s a bit messy to spray so we first sprayed some in a small jug and applied it with a brush for a nice finish.

5.2.1. Drop the swivel in place and trace the center hole on the plastic cover (you’ll use this later!):

5.2.2. Now put the swivel adapter away and remove these two screws (8mm hex socket):

5.2.3. The electrical harness is secured to the metal plate with a rubber grommet and a clip. Remove them to free the harness:

5.2.4. Remove the metal plate and the battery box plastic cover, then reroute the electrical wiring harness as follows:

There is a pre-cut slot in the battery box (nice!). Route the harness through it and slide the rubber grommet in.

We secured the harness with a cable tie, otherwise it would chafe against the sharp edge of the battery terminal (vibration + chafing = danger).

Route the harness between the two batteries.

This is where the harness will exit the battery box (next steps).

5.2.5. Drill a hole (5/8″ drill bit or spade bit) where the harness will exit the cover and create a cutout (we used a Dremel) to slide the harness all the way to that hole:

5.2.6. Slide the electrical harness all the way to the hole, snap the plastic covers back in place, put back the metal plate with the two screws (8mm hex socket). Looking good!

6.1. Remove the 2 plastic covers by pulling them up:

6.2. Got it!

6.3. Here is the idea of this modification: we take the 3 existing attachment points (start of arrow) and re-locate them lower in other existing holes (end of arrow). Not clear? Keep reading!

6.4. To remove the metal plate, we need to remove these 2 screws:

6.5. All the batteries posts can be detached. The two batteries are “linked” together with this small tube (to locate in the picture, follow the arrow head). It looks like it is a venting tube. It can be detached (and re-attached later, no problem) to remove each battery individually (unless you’re much stronger than me).

6.6. The two batteries are located in a plastic basket. Remove it!

6.7. You can now remove the 3 screws that attach the e-brake from inside of the seat base (we have no picture, but you’ll see, it’s pretty obvious). The e-brake is not yet free! Remove the 4 nuts that attach the metal plate to the seat base and trim the plate as shown to be able to remove it:

6.8. Then, disconnect the e-brake electrical wire (at the red arrow).

6.9. The nut below is welded. We need to remove it, because we will use the hole that is under the nut.

6.10. The nut is gone! Sweet!

6.11. We’re about to lower the e-brake, but doing so makes the cable housing rub with the sheet metal. Indeed, it off-centers the cable housing through the cutout (the rubbing happens below the van, not shown here).

6.12. We must prepare a device to protect the cable housing from rubbing with the sheet metal. We kept the sheet metal that we trimmed when installing the Maxxair Fan! Neat!

6.13. We will now lower the e-brake. The back screw fits nicely, the front screw “fits” in the large cutout (where the e-brake switch wire grommet was). The cutout is way too big, but adding a fender washer will make everything secure! The third screw (the lower one) is no longer used… (but we feel that it is strong enough with only 2 screws):

6.14. We must now crawl under the van to install the part that will protect the cable housing from rubbing with the sheet metal. We fixed it with a worm-drive clamp:

6.15. We’re not done just yet! See, the airbag control module is located just forward of the e-brake. The metal bracket that we removed previously was acting as a shield, since the module is supposed to be pressure-sensitive.

6.16. We need to modify the metal bracket, and put it back in place.

6.17. Re-connect the e-brake electrical wire previously disconnected and put everything back in place!

Unfortunately, the two plastic parts that we first removed do not fit anymore, but this is only aesthetic. We still have to do something about that… trim them or something.