Bedroom Storage Cubbies – Driver Side

We loaded all the Roll-In T-Nuts into the bed platform’s cross-bars at their final locations, and added the transfer screws:

We then brought the bottom panel to its final location and applied pressure over each transfer screw to leave an impression:

The impression prevents the drill bit from roaming onto the surface, so it’s very precise:

We used the Kreg Pocket-Hole Jig, with the material depth set to 1/2″:

To prevent the screws from poking through the front of the face frame, we reduced the depth of the holes slightly:

Not super happy with the finish, but the holes will be mostly hidden behind the frame…

Because we reduced the depth of the holes, we had to “clean” them with a regular drill bit:

As usual, we use glue on all mating surfaces (including fingers) to add strength and prevent squeaks:

Adding a divider…

We learned it’s easier and faster to back-screw (with #4 screws) than to use clamps… For non-visible surfaces only:

Front panel, rear panel, and all dividers in place. As usual, Antoine makes the mess, and Isabelle cleans up after:

We then added the wall panel (mid):

All parts were cut on the CNC (bottom, top, divider x 6):

Each part features an alignment notch:

A 3D printed rectangular dowel is placed in the notch and ensures precise alignment:

We only have 2 long clamps, so we started by gluing the front and rear dividers:

After a few hours, we proceeded with the other dividers:

With all the parts bonded and sanded (220 grit with orbital sander), we masked the surfaces to be bonded with the structure, and applied tung oil with a rag:

We applied glue to all the mating surfaces, and then fastened the bamboo face frame to the dividers with the pocket screws:

Back side:

We used clamps to apply pressure in between screws:

Another angle:

To clear the foam from the holes, a hollow punch works great:

All wires labeled. It takes time, but the future you (and future owner of your van) will thank you. It’s amazing how fast you forget which wire is what!

The ultimate way to label is with clear heat-shrink tubing over a P-touch label. But it’s quite time-consuming, and it must be done before…

An easier and faster way I found is to use Nylon Zip Tie Tags with a 12 mm P-touch label. Also, notice the split loom tubing and rubber edge trims:

Another one, another one, another one…

I left the wire exposed and labeled, behind the access cutouts:

The wall panel (top piece) goes first, M6 flanged button head screws into the rivet nuts. It’s separate from the cabinet, so that we can install the cubbies “over” the wiring harness:

And there goes the cabinet:

That photo was taken before installing the front:

We used 5/16″-18 x 3/4″ stainless button head screws with washers to fasten the bottom to the 80/20 frames:

We had to grind (with a Dremel) at the front of the cabinet. Not pretty, but it’s out of sight:

It enters through a cutout at the front of the bedroom storage cabinet:

Each divider has a cutout in the back to route the wiring harness:

Front: