Upper Cabinet DIY Build (Driver Side) | Transit Van Conversion

Upper Cabinet DIY Build (Driver Side) | Transit Van Conversion

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Updated:

Let’s keep the van conversion going with the Driver-Side Upper Cabinet! It will store the kitchen’s stuff (dishes, pans, coffee maker, etc.). Below is an attempt at documenting the entire DIY fabrication/installation process 🙂

It’s still a work-in-progress, we will update as we progress!

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Portrait-FarOutRide-Van

Theory


Upper Cabinet Overview


For reference, this is how we built this cabinet in FarOutVan 1 🙂

A few differences on the new build:

  • Blum Aventos HK-S Lift (instead of hinges & gas strut);
  • Frameless (instead of frame);
  • Bamboo doors (instead of pine).

Soft vs “Hard” Cabinets


We did consider soft cabinets; the weight saving would be considerable. But we decided it’s not what we need for the “kitchen”. We feel a “hard” cabinet is more suitable to store dishes, coffee, gear, food, and such. But soft cabinets would work great in the bedroom, to store clothes and such… Personal preferences!


Fabrication


Time


TBD

Cost


TBD

Weight


TBD

Material


ITEMDESCRIPTIONQTYBUY
12mm (1/2″) Baltic Birch PlywoodFor all parts except the wall panel, top panel, and the doors.74″x38″Locally
6mm (1/4″) Baltic Birch PlywoodFor the wall panel and the top panel.74″x25″Locally
(Optional)
3mm (1/8″) Baltic Birch Plywood
For the top panel, instead of machining the top panel from 6mm Baltic Birch…74″x12.5″Locally
13mm (1/2″) Bamboo Ply For the doors, open-bay frame, and wire harness cover.75″x20″Locally
Blum Aventos HK-S LiftsWe used these instead of hinges/gas struts for a simple/elegant installation.3
6
Hinge System
Door Clip
Pull Latch, RoundFits into a 51mm round cutout.3Amazon
Shelf BracketsWe used the Powertec ones (pegs), but simple “L” brackets (screws) work too.1Amazon
LED StripWe chose COB LED strip for a more uniform light (more LEDs per feet).1Amazon
LED Aluminum ChannelTo house the LED strip.1Amazon
LED Continuous CoverThe aluminum channel includes covers, but we wanted a continuous cover (no seams).1Amazon
LED Switch/DimmerPush-button PWM dimmer (same brand as our ceiling puck lights).1Amazon

Box


Making it Strong

The wall panel is only 6mm (1/4″) thick. By itself, it is a bit flimsy. But we used eight screws to attach it to the wall; it is essentially making “one” with the van’s structure, so it’s super stiff once attached:

Each divider has “male” fingers that fit tightly into the wall panel’s “female” cutout. Even without glue, these fingers block the down/up/forward/back movement:

The bottom panel features slots for each divider which also increases the strength of the joints:

So far we created a super strong box, so we don’t need the top panel to play a significant structural role (especially since we’re using door lifts that are attached to the dividers, not the top):

All these “nice to have” fancy joints are enabled by the Shapeoko CNC, but they are not mandatory at all. We made a similar Upper Cabinet in FarOutVan1, with only basic tools, and it’s still holding strong!

We first cut all the parts (per CNC File or Paper Template). NOW is a good opportunity to sand everything as required (much easier than after assembly). OK, we’ve got 30 minutes working time with the glue, let’s think of a plan:

I first applied glue along the mating edges of the wall panel, bottom panels, and the first/second dividers. 30-minute countdown ON!

I fitted the first and second dividers into the back wall (with glue):

I then flipped the wall panel and the dividers onto the bottom panel (with glue):

I applied glue to the remaining dividers and fitted them in place (it’s important to glue ALL mating surfaces for strength, but also to prevent squeaking):

I used a whole bunch of brad nails to secure the wall panel with the bottom panel and the dividers. The brad nails don’t play a structural role; they allow to precisely and instantly align the parts and hold them in place while the glue cures:

Some of the dividers expanded slightly and wouldn’t fit all the way to the bottom of the slot, but clamps solved the issue (hammering them in did NOT work!). With all the super tight tolerances it wasn’t exactly easy to fit together, but now that it’s assembled it’s never going apart! I let the glue do its thing for 24 hours (don’t stress the joints!).

I came back 24h later to add the top panel. To get a perfect alignment at the front (which is visible), I aligned the top panel and the divider (1) with one brad nail (glue was applied prior). Then, I worked my way along the edge (2 -> 3 -> 4 -> 5 -> 6):

(this photo was taken a bit later… ignore the other nails at this point!)

I then nailed the remaining of the top panel to the dividers. I used about 6 nails per divider:

I added clamps between the dividers, to ensure contact between the top and wall panels (the 1/4″ wall panels is too thin to accept nails):

The mating surfaces between the wall and top panel are very narrow; I was a bit worried it could unglue in the long run, so I added a bead of PL Premium 3X along the edge in the back:

I also added a bead of PL Premium 3X along the edge inside the cabinet (I used painter’s tape to get a clean line). PL Premium has peanut butter consistency and doesn’t drip down:

I came back 24 hours later and removed the clamps. We’re done with the box!

Doors


We routed the doors (per CNC or Paper plan) and installed the latch on each door:

We then installed the hinge’s clips to the back of the doors:

The Blum Aventos HK-S has two indexing pins to locate them precisely without trial and error:

Three screws per hinge (screws are included and are the correct length for 12mm thick plywood):

I couldn’t use screws where there are two adjacent hinges, so I used M4 x 60mm bolts and nuts:

All the hinges installed!

Install the brackets for the latches with #6 x 3/8″ screws:

To install the doors, simply clip them to the hinge arms. Easy! And easy to remove as well:

Shelves


The shelves have about 1/8″ clearance all around and are fastened with these brackets. The “peg” is inserted into a 5mm diameter hole, and is screwed into the shelf (to prevent rattle on the road):

It’s in!

Recessed LED


The aluminum channel, LED strip, and diffuser are cut to length and inserted into the 17.1mm wide x 6.5mm deep slot in the bottom panel:

I added a #4 x 3/4″ screw into each divider to secure the channel (I can add CA glue later if the channel sags between the dividers…):

There is a cutout on the rear divider to let the wires through:

Wire Harness Cover


Coming soon!

Finish


We plan on finishing the upper cabinet a bit later, wait for it!


Installation


Material and Tools


ITEMDESCRIPTIONQTYBUY
M6 Rivet NutsFor a strong and reusable fastening point.8Amazon
M6 x 20mm Flange Button
Head Screws (Stainless)
To fasten the upper cabinet into the rivet nuts.8Amazon
Minicel
(1/8″ thick)
Thermal break between the upper cabinet and the van’s metal.
(Low-E EZ Cool works too!)
Rivet Nut Setter ToolMany types of tools are available, but this is the one we use personally.1Amazon

The upper cabinet is secured with eight M6 Flanged Button Head Stainless Steel screws, into M6 rivet nuts:

This is a work in progress… we will update this page as we progress!


On Second Thought…


Too soon!


Inspiration of the moment…


tbd.

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About us


NICE TO MEET YOU.

About-Us-Narrow

Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017, we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers, and moved into our self-built campervan. Every day is an opportunity for a new adventure... We’re chasing our dreams, and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!

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5 thoughts on “Upper Cabinet DIY Build (Driver Side) | Transit Van Conversion”

  1. Very nice. Maybe I am missing something, but the links for the templates are not active. Is that intentional and will they be active at a later time?
    ty and stay safe

    Reply
    • Indeed. I vastly underestimated the work required to make the files “sharable” (= provide clear instructions). Working on it now! It should be up in the next few days 🙂

      Reply

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