Speakers Upgrade

Speakers Upgrade

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After upgrading our radio unit, the next smart move was to upgrade our speakers. We ordered our Transit with the basic factory radio which includes 1 speaker in each front door; and they’re not that great… we’re not audiophile or something; in fact we’ve been using the same small portable stereo in our house for the last 10 years, but we quickly got bored of the flat sound of the Transit’s factory speakers.

Based on reviews and popularity, we chose the JBL GT7-6C speakers. The JBL GT7-6C includes 6.5″speakers (for bass and mids), tweeters (for highs) and crossover (the crossover sends the low frequencies to the 6.5″ speakers and the high frequencies to the tweeters). We also took this opportunity to install some Thinsulate in the front doors, because we’ll hit the Rocky Mountains in a few days and winter is imminent…

The upgrade is not difficult to perform, just follow our instructions below! Make sure to read “On Second Thought” at the bottom of this page for our review on this upgrade!


TOTAL COST : About $130 USD

DISCLOSURE: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc), we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.




  • JBL GT7-6C Speakers (Buy on Amazon)
  • Front Doors Ford Transit 5.625″ I.D. Adapters & 4 Linear Feet of Thinsulate Insulation (Buy on eBay)
  • 3M VHB 4991 Tape (Buy on Amazon)
  • Black and Red AWG 14 wires, approximately 5 feet each (Buy on Amazon)
  • Quick Disconnect Female (speaker positive disconnect is .250″, speaker negative is smaller .125″) (Buy on Amazon)



Door Panel Removal

There are 8 screws to remove the panel:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade - 8 screws

To access the screws, the clips must be removed using a small plastic scraper:

Now that the clips are gone, remove the screws. Pay special attention to the one behind the reflector: there is a black hole in the plastic trim that will swallow the screw FOREVER. We blocked that hole with tissue, because we’re smart (and we lost our first screw in the passenger door…).

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0408
Fill the hole with tissue or something

Unclip the panel as follows (be careful, there are some wires and cables attached underneath; keep reading…):

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0409
Pull this side away
Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0411
Then this side
Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0413
Then pull the whole panel UP so it slides out of the door lock rod

There are electrical harnesses to unclip (3 on driver side, 2 on passenger side) and 1 cable to remove. Each ones is clipped, so scan with your fingers and you will find how to un-clip it!Ford-Transit-Speakers-Upgrade-0414


Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0415

Let’s remove that factory speaker:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0418
Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0419 Adios Amigos

A-Pillar Interior Trim Removal

The tweeter will be installed in the A-Pillar trim, so we have to remove that. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISTURB THE AIR BAG!

First, remove the cup holder. Just pull up (don’t be shy!):

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0422

Then, pull in the direction of the arrows:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-423

We’re not there yet, the A-Pillar is retained by a small plastic cord and 2 metal clips:

Align the plastic thing with the slot in the A-Pillar, then pull down, Turn 90 degrees, then pull down.
We were able to unclip them, but we’re not exactly sure how… by using a combination of force, pulling in every directions, swearing, etc.

NOTE: The passenger door A-Pillar is retain by the handle. Just remove it (there are two screws under the clips) and then pull the A-Pillar away. It’s much easier than the driver side. You’ll figure it easily.

Okay, the A-Pillar is out of the way. Great!

Wire Routing

We have to run a wire from the crossover (door) to the tweeter (van). Here’s how.

See that rubber shield?

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-

We have to run the wires in it. First, remove the rubber lips as follows:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0429

CAUTION! For the next step, be careful not to damage the electrical wires with the sharp edge of the van’s cutout!

Then, remove the plastic plugs. There are clips above and below:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0430Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0431

The wire will go through the plastic plugs, through unused pin holes. But first, we need to enlarge the pin holes to be able to run the wire in them. Drill as follows:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-
Please enjoy this out-of-focus picture

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-

We used a drill:


Okay, now it’s time to actually route the wires!

First, route the wires from the dash to the door:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0438

Then, run the wires through the first plug:

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And through the second plug:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0440

Still with us? Good! Now, the wires have to be run through the rubber shield. It’s tight, so try to go in a straight line. It’s not that easy, but you can do it!

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0441

From the rubber shield, the wires are routed to the door’s speaker cutout. (no picture, you’ll figure)

Now, re-connect the plugs, re-install the rubber lips around the plug, then push the plugs back into the van:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0443

6.5″ Speaker & Crossover Installation

We fixed the crossover with 3M VHB 4991 tape. It’s the same tape we used to fix our solar panels and few other things too. Clean the back of the crossover with Isopropyl Alcohol and apply the tape to it:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0447

Clean the door with alcohol and stick the crossover to it:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0450 Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0451

Before connecting the wires to the crossover, crimp a quick-disconnect (Buy on Amazon) to the positive door’s speaker wire (large disconnect) and to the negative door’s speaker wire (small disconnect):

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0453

Connect the door’s speaker wires in “W” terminals and the tweeter wires previously routed in “T” terminals.

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0455

It’s now time to install the door’s speaker. We’re using Hein’s adapter (Buy on eBay) for that (Hein is also making super-useful roof fan adapter that we used as seen here, and other unique van-conversion related stuff. Make sure to check out his eBay Store)

That’s the speaker adapter

Clean the speaker cutout periphery with isopropyl alcohol, peel the protective tape from the speaker adapter, then screw the adapter in place using the screws we previously removed:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0458

Connect the wires to the speakers (reminder: that’s the wires connected to the “W”) and screw the speaker into the adapter using the screws provided with the speakers.

Then, cut away to factory speaker connector and connect the positive (+) and negative (-) to the crossover. Use the secret color code below:

Positive Negative
Driver Side White White/Brown
Passenger Side White/Violet White/Orange
Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade--2
Cut away the factory speaker connector
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Final Result!


There is a button that says “+2DB” on the crossover: if activated, it will make the tweeters louder. It’s a personal taste, but we much prefer it setted to “0DB” so that the tweeters are not too loud.


Thinsulate Installation

Before we re-install the door’s panel, we installed thinsulate to it; this will provide thermal & sound insulation. Our entire van is insulated with Thinsulate, check out our Thinsulate Installation Article! We followed Hein’s video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_igBQnMINI&t) so here’s the final result:

Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0448


  • Make sure to watch the video to ensure you make cutouts for the latch mechanism and electrical harnesses!
  • Unfortunately, the amount of Thinsulate provided in the kit is not enough to cover the passenger AND the driver’s door in two full pieces, so we had to make stitches with aluminum tape (this is what we had in hand).

Finally, re-install the door’s panel.

Tweeter Installation

We used 3M VHB 4991 tape to stick the tweeters to the A-Pillar.

  • DISCLOSURE: we’re not sure if it will last in the long run, but we’ll report on that later!
  • Update 2023: Still holding!!
Ford Transit Speakers Upgrade-0463
We had to put 3 layers of tape, to clear the tweeter’s dome…

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Before going any further we ran the wires through some neoprene tape (Buy on Amazon) we had, in order to protect the wires from rubbing against the sharp edges of the cutout:

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Crimp quick-disconnect to tweeter wires previously routed (positive = large disconnect, negative = small disconnect), connect them to the tweeters (isolate the connections with electric tape to avoid shorts!), re-install the A-Pillar and ENJOY!!


We first installed the door’s speakers and we were a bit disappointed… then we finished the installation with the tweeters and we were quite impressed with the sound! The door’s speakers + the tweeters together create a rich, deep sound compared to the factory speakers. There is more bass, more high, the sound is just clearer. Nice! Totally worth it!

We did fine-tune the radio’s equalizer to find the perfect bass/high sweet spot:

Equalize this.

THANKS for reading! 

If you just got here, you might be interested in this article:

Ford Transit DIY Aftermarket Radio Installation (Pioneer Android/CarPlay)

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About us



Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017, we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers, and moved into our self-built campervan. Every day is an opportunity for a new adventure... We’re chasing our dreams, and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!

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Thanks to all of you, we managed to negociate group discount on these. Strength in numbers!

4 thoughts on “Speakers Upgrade”

  1. Hi Guys,

    Hope Mexico is treating you well. We are jealous!

    Insulation. Okay.

    Wondering, for the side door, you took off the vapor barrier and put the thinsulite between the door skin and the vapor barrier. But for the front doors you didnt do that, it’s outside the vapor barrier.

    Why? Is it because you weren’t into pulling off the vapor barrier when you were doing the front doors (maybe didnt know you could do that then?) or for some other obvious (once you have done it) reason.



      • If the Thinsulate goes inside the door frame (so under the vapor barrier that is held on by butyl adhesive) then it will be exposed to the window sliding tracks. Grease from the tracks could get in the Thinsulate, and the Thinsulate could also touch the window glass when it’s down, which might get the glass dirty. I think it’s best to go right under the interior trim panel, as shown in the pictures.


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