Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final

Webasto Air Heater Installation

Air Top 2000STC (Gasoline)

The Webasto installation, thermal insulation & Maxxair Fan are the key elements to make our DIY camper van conversion comfortable during winter. The van will be used as a winter splitboarding basecamp, therefore heat & humidity control is critical.

The Webasto AirTop 2000 ST/STC is fueled from the main vehicle tank. Fuel consumption is low (0.03 to 0.06 gal/h), electricity consumption is low as well (1.25A to 2.45A on average, more during startup) and there is no humidity added in the van resulting from the combustion as opposed to propane heaters such as the popular Mr. Heater Big Buddy (




We recently had issue with our heater and learned the hard way that the “STC” unit is not supported in North-America. Only the “ST” model is. We strongly recommend to get the “ST” model if you are located in America…



We chose to install the unit under the passenger seat.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final

Final result: Webasto Air Heater installed under the passenger seat



TIME SPENT ON THE JOB: 20-24 hours* (!!)

* Note on the time: The Webasto installation is not rocket science; this is probably doable in 8 hours (some have claim to have done it in about 4 hours). Despite a good planning, the installation process was painful… We do not have a lot of tool and hardware in hand, so we had to make several trips to Home Depot and the Auto Parts store. In addition, we spent at least 4 hours just planning the routing: since we installed our unit under the passenger seat, we had to go across the van exhaust which is a very hot area and it made the routing more challenging. Another contributor to the long hours was the fact that there is not much space under the passenger seat (under the van), so we had to make sure the hole pattern would not fall into a frame. And since the access under the seat is so bad, the installation of the 4 screws, air intake, air exhaust and fuel line was VERY time consuming. That being said, the installation is solid and clean; we’re very satisfied with the final result!





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  • One of the following heater:
    • Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Gasoline version with installation kit & MultiControl (Buy from eBay)
    • Webasto Air Top 2000 STC Diesel version with installation kit (Buy from Amazon)
      • Caution! “STC” models are not supported in America. For USA or Canada, we suggest to buy the “ST” model:
    • Webasto Air Top 2000 ST Gasoline version with installation kit (Buy from eBay)
    • Webasto Air Top 2000 ST Diesel version with installation kit & SmartTemp (Buy from eBay)
  • 1x Aluminum sheet 0.062″ thick (to make a flat surface) (free if you get it from a friend)
  • 3x Plus Nut 1/4-20 (optional to avoid drilling new holes in the van structure) (Buy from Amazon)
  • 2x Bolt M8x1.25 30mm length (to use existing tapped hole in the van structure (Buy from Amazon)
  • 1x Ford Gasoline Auxiliary Fuel Port Kit (10$)
  • 3/8″ I.D. Fuel Line 8′-10′ length (check your installation for adequate length) (15$)
  • 5/16″ I.D. Fuel Line 1′ length (connect from Auxiliary Fuel Port to 1/4″ fuel line) (3$)
  • 1x Heat Shield Sleeve 1″ diameter (¾” diameter would probably work) 36″ length (Buy from Amazon)
  • Primer
  • Kleen-Flo RustProof
  • Thinsulate (Buy from Amazon)
  • We learned the Webasto creates a lot of noise! We strongly suggest to also get the material to reduce that noise. Look at THIS POST (Air Heater Noise Reduction) to learn more!
Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Material

Well, this is a bit intimidating



  • Drill (with drill bits and 2-3/8″ hole saw)
  • Jigsaw (if you need to fabricate a flat doubler)





*Disclaimer: we’re good, but not that much. Use these instructions at your own risks!


First things first, there are a lot’s of do’s and don’ts so make sure to read the manual that comes with the unit (see “Resources” links above).


1- Fit the Webasto Air Heater unit to the van

The seat was removed.

Van Conversion Swivel, remove front screws

Van Conversion Swivel, rear screws


The jack will be relocated somewhere else. The bolt holding the jack was trimmed flush.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, jack bolt trim flush


We located the Air Heater unit: it must be positioned so it does not interfere with seat base and with the structure under the floor. There is not much room under the van… we used existing fasteners and holes to help us make the correspondence between above/below floor location.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, under the van

Viewing from under the van. Not much room here… (this photo was taken after unit’s holes were drilled)


The surface on which the unit is installed must be perfectly flat for the gasket to work; we had to fabricate an aluminum plate to fulfill this requirement.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, aluminum plate


There are drilling templates provided in the manual, use them! Do not use the rubber gasket as a template, it is not accurate…

(see template in previous picture)


We tripled-checked the location of the unit and proceeded with drilling. Before drilling, we punched the holes center so the drill bit would not slide off center. As usual, we coated the bare surfaces with primer/paint/clearcoat for corrosion protection.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, drilling holes


We then sealed the holes/aluminum doubler with Silicone. This is important to prevent gas fumes from entering inside the van.


The unit is fastened with 4 lock-washers and nuts under the floor. The access is VERY limited, so we had to use a gear wrench:

Gear Wrench

Gear wrench on Amazon. Needs as little as 5 degrees to move fastener VS 30 degrees for standard box end wrenches


After securing the 4 nuts, we applied Silicone under the floor.


2- Route the combustion air-exhaust

We routed it toward the rear of the van near the passenger side tire.


1- We couldn’t avoid a “low-point” in the exhaust routing, so we drilled 3/16″ hole at the low-point to drain the water formed by condensation (This is per manual. When the heater is running, we actually observe water dripping through the hole). So make sure to add a drain hole wherever there is a low point!

2- About silencers: they increase flow restriction in the exhaust and having some issues with carbon buildup in our unit, we decided to remove the silencer.


The exhaust is routed so the gas are dumped OUTSIDE the van edge. This is to avoid carbon monoxide from pooling under the van AND to ensure the exhaust gas does not get sucked back into the intake! We install a silencer at the intake, this will act as a dust filter so that the combustion chamber does not block.


3- Route the combustion air-intake

See picture just above!


4- Route the fuel line and the fuel pump electrical wire

We used 3/8” rubber fuel line to protect the Webasto fuel line and an additional Heat Shield Sleeve (Buy from Amazon) near the van muffler.

The fuel pump electrical wire is routed along with the fuel line.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel line routing

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel line shield


We located the fuel pump near the fuel tank (as stated in the manual). The fuel pump was attached using a PlusNut fitted in an existing hole

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, PlusNut Fuel Pump

Fitting the PlusNut in the existing hole


PlusNut: get some, they will be handy throughout the whole conversion (this is what we used to secure the interior cabinets and stuff). The 1\4-20 .280 grip prebulbed type will fit in the existing Transit factory holes found everywhere inside the cargo area. We made a specific post about Plusnut here (selection chart, how to install & tips).

PlusNut, Pre-Bulbed

1\4-20 .280 grip prebulbed PlusNut on




Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel pump


To gain access to the auxiliary fuel port, the tank must be lowered.

We drove the van until about 10 miles to empty (the tank is surprisingly lightweight at this point). Then we put a toolbox under the tank and removed the 6 screws holding the tank. No need to detach the fuel lines (they are flexible). We lowered the tank until we were able to detach the protective fuel cap on the auxiliary fuel port.

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, lower the fuel tank

The (emply) fuel tank is fairly light weight


The connection fitting can be purchased from a Ford Dealer, it’s only about 10$. The fitting was pre-fitted with 5/16” fuel line, then 1/4”, then the Webasto fuel line



Then we installed the fitting on the tank and connected it to the fuel pump


Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, fuel pump


Then, we connected the fuel pump electrical wires to the Webasto unit (the wires that are hanging out from the Webasto unit combustion air intake). The fuel pump has no polarity! In other words, there is no positive or negative to follow when connecting the electrical wires.


5- Secure the combustion air-exhaust, combustion air-intake and the fuel line to the unit using the provided clamps

Van Conversion Webasto

Yes, it is possible to attach everything despite the tight space!


6- Route the cabin hot-air duct and install the fitting


Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, duct fitting hole


7- Install the provided protective screen to the cabin cold-air intake (as stated in the manual)


8- Connect the electrical harness to the air heater unit

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, electrical harness connection


EDIT: Before re-installing the seat, we recommend to add Thinsulate ( all around the seat base. We found that it helps reducing the fan noise (don’t expect it to completely go away) and it helps with thermal insulation. If you do, MAKE SURE NOT COVER THE INTAKE OF THE WEBASTO!


9- Connect the Rotary Rheostat (or any Webasto controller) to the harness*

*Different controllers requires different harness! Ensure you have the appropriate one or it will not work…

Webasto MultiController vs Rheostat

Webasto Rotary Rheostat and MultiControl (7 days timer)


10- Connect the harness to the power supply (red wire is positive, brown is negative)


11- Before testing the setup, the van fuel tank must be filled or the air heater fuel pump will only pump air…


12- Turn it on!

The unit requires 3-4 starts for the fuel to get pumped all the way to the unit, so we got 3 faulty starts before it actually worked. Also, when ambient air temperature is above 77F, the unit starts then shutoff immediately for self-protection…


If using the MultiControl 7 Days Timer, the device must be programmed first following these instructions.


That’s it! In your face, winter.


Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final

Van Conversion Webasto Air Heater, Final



STC vs ST model

The following is the result of our own research (with some help). It is not official information, but good luck finding official information…

Availability and technical support:

  • ST: Worldwide
  • STC: Not in North-America…

What’s different? Found here:

“This product is the further development of the Webasto Air Top 2000 ST and has the same dimensions and technical characteristics. It also runs under the same legal operating licence as the Webasto Air Top 2000 ST. It uses the standard fuel pump DP42 as used in the Webasto Air Top Evo 40/55 heaters. A change of the applications when using the new heater is not required except for using ta different metering pump ad harness. The Webasto Air Top 2000 STC will ensure full W-Bus compatibility and full operation with the NEW SmartControl and MultiControl without using the Unibox. Can be used in conjunctions with the Webasto ThermoCall TC4, this Can also be purchased on our online shop.”

STC: Features and Benefits

The STC can be controlled with the new MultiControl.




  • On second thought, we would still install the heater our self BUT we would buy the ST over the STC to get technical support…


  • February 1st 2017 update: Our heater had carbon buildup, which caused the malfunction. Carbon buildup after only 200 hours of use is not normal. We had our heater checked by Mellor Online and, after cleaning the carbon, it is supposed to be 100% functional. So there must be something wrong with our installation. Now let’s see what are the possible causes for carbon buildup:
    1. Incomplete combustion caused by Fuel/Oxygen mix ratio too rich (not enough oxygen).
    2. Combustion intake dust ingestion.
    3. Voltage issue.
    4. Dirty fuel.
    5. Fuel pump installed at incorrect angle.
    6. Short run cycles (It is recommended to run the heater for at least 15 minutes before shutting down).

    What’s our plan for each points above?

    1. Re-route exhaust so it dumps the gas outside the van limits, further away. We think that the intake was sucking the exhaust gas back in (therefore there was a lack of oxygen).
    2. Add an intake silencer (acting as dust filter).
    3. Voltage was checked by Mellor Online and is suppose to be fine. Nothing to do here.
    4. Add the Webasto fuel filter just before the pump.
    5. Our pump is installed per manual. Nothing to do here.
    6. We did that already.

    Hopefully this solves the issue.

    We will report back with long term results.


  • October 2017 Update: Carbon buildup issues came back. This time we installed a new burner insert and adjusted the heater for high-altitude. Full write-up here:

Webasto Air Top 2000 – How To Install a New Burner Following Carbon Buildup


  • The first thing we noticed during our first night is the NOISE the heater produces! How bad is the noise? Enough so that during our first few nights, we did not sleep so well. We also felt bad for our neighbors installed in a tent just beside the van…

Here are the noise sources we identified:

  1. Fuel pump “ticking” (or “clicking”)
    • Heard mostly outside, but also inside the van
    • irregular frequency, so this is quite disturbing
  2. Exhaust pipe
    • Heard mostly outside the van
  3. Intake pipe
    • Heard mostly outside the van
  4. Fan
    • Heard inside the van
    • Regular noise, does not bother us

Fortunately, there are ways to reduce the noise to a more acceptable level. We cover the modifications in this post here:

Webasto Air Heater Noise Reduction


  • If using the Webasto / Espar at high altitudes (approx. 5000 feet and more), there are some modifications to perform in order to prevent malfunction or lost of performance. See our post here:

Webasto / Espar: High Altitudes Usage





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Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine, a couple dreaming of being on the move and we’re seeking for the ride of our life. We bought a Ford Transit van, converted it to a campervan, sold our house, quit our jobs and hit the road full-time to make our dream a reality. We are sharing this in hope of inspiring and helping others to follow their dreams too!



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  1. Pingback: About to install Webasto gas heater under passenger seat; need some help! - Ford Transit USA Forum

  2. Pingback: webasto Airtop 2000 - Ford Transit USA Forum

  3. Comment by slem

    slem Reply August 31, 2016 at 1:07 am

    Thank you for the great install pictures.

    • Comment by admin

      admin Reply August 31, 2016 at 7:15 am

      You’re welcome! 🙂

  4. Comment by Hack Saw

    Hack Saw Reply October 2, 2016 at 7:36 pm

    Not relevant to the heater, but:
    1) 3.73 or 4.11 rear? and;
    2) do you wish you had the other gearset?
    3 got limited slip differential?
    3) could you have gotten a dual-slider? and;
    4) any benefit you see?
    5) happy with the heater? Noise under seat vs. boxed?
    6) you guys from the NE? Couldn’t find if you stated.
    7) to be continued…
    Hack Saw

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 2, 2016 at 7:46 pm

      1) 4.11 (no other option with the Extended Length)
      2) Can’t compare, so I cannot answer that. We’re getting 16 MPEG on average.
      3) Yes. Did not try in snow yet.
      3) not sure about that.
      4) no, we would loose usable space inside (for cabinets and overhead storage).
      5) Yes! There is some noise inside from the fan, but it’s regular so we get use to it. There is also noise from the fuel pump (pulsations) which is annoying. Outside, it is quite noisy so we just installed a silencer and it helped.
      6) Close enough! We’re just north of Montreal in Quebec. But we spend most of our vacation in NE (New-England, right?) for BEER & BIKE 🙂

  5. Comment by Andrew

    Andrew Reply October 8, 2016 at 11:14 pm

    Hi, thanks for great write-up. Will be installing mine next week. Just curious about the large cabin-hot-air outlet duct: why did you make it S-shaped and have the outlet on LHS rear of seat, rather than just going straight back to RHS of seat (hence a much shorter run)? Thanks again,

    • Comment by Hack Saw

      Hack Saw Reply October 9, 2016 at 12:03 pm

      I was curious too but I’m guessing here: sound?

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 10, 2016 at 9:46 am

      We wanted the outlet to be near the middle of the van, for better air distribution. We saw installations with much longer run, so no worry here.
      Good luck with your install!

  6. Comment by Andrew

    Andrew Reply October 9, 2016 at 11:47 am

    One more quick question: did you install the fuel filter before the pump? Did not see it in any picture. And, finally, is there anything you would do differently if you were doing it again? Thank you

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 10, 2016 at 9:52 am

      The Webasto installation manual states that the fuel filter is not necessary if using “clean” fuel; so we did not install the fuel filter.
      We now have spent 5-6 night at around 32F outside temperature and the Webasto keeps us nice and warm, we’re happy with the installation!

  7. Comment by Martin

    Martin Reply October 24, 2016 at 6:04 pm

    That heater looks like a great solution. The fact that it uses on board fuel is a big plus. My question is how are these heaters as it relates to trouble free operation, what parts are likely to fail and how expensive are replacement part? Are they DIY serviceable?

    Thanks, this is an inspiration!

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 24, 2016 at 7:38 pm

      Hey Martin,

      These heaters are pretty common in transport trucks i believe, so i would expect replacement parts to be available from local dealership (there are 2 or 3 in my city) or online (,, etc). I’ve seen a few DIY on youtube; it seems to be serviceable, but i have not look much into it since our unit is new and it should run trouble-free for a while. Hopefully!

      I’m afraid i cannot really answer your questions for now, in a few years we will be able to tell!


  8. Comment by Andrew

    Andrew Reply October 25, 2016 at 12:23 am

    Well, I got it installed! 20 hours, would have been at least double without these instructions to follow, thanks so much. I used 10ft of the 5/16 fuel-line to protect the skinny Webasto fuel-line. 3/4 heat shield worked just fine (as you suspected). Used 1/8 aluminum as the backing plate and a piece 7″x4″ was big enough to completely cover the indentation (rib) in the van floor, making sealing it easier. Used dicor lap sealant around the perimeter. Jack was relocated a couple of inches towards driver’s seat using 2 more riv-nuts and i can still remove it through the large center hole in the seat swivel plate. Supplied harness does not work with Multi-control, just as you warned, thanks again.

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 25, 2016 at 6:40 am

      Good to hear everything went well!
      I’m surprise you also got the wrong harness 🙁 I though I was just unlucky…

      What are the next steps in your conversion?

      • Comment by Andrew

        Andrew Reply October 25, 2016 at 9:41 am

        Thanks. Mine is for 4-season camping also (Road/MT Biking, Kitesurfing, Backcountry-Skiing). I’ve completed: Maxxair, Thinsulate, 3″ insulated floor sandwich, 305w MPPT solar, 90% of electrics (200Ah Lithium, 2/0 cabling), 8020 framing (incl. slide-out 2-bike 8020 tray under bed), non-pressurized plumbing system (incl. internal gray-water tank, solenoid discharge valve), 7g electric hot water with centrifugal pump, digital thermostat and tank-level sensor (12v/700w, used as solar dump-load), ARB on slide-out under platform bed, 3rd (removable, Transit) seat canter-levered over rear of sliding door step (this took forever to engineer), swivel seat, and the Webasto. Currently working on a one-piece stainless shower pan and enclosure (behind drivers seat), replacing temporary wood panels with finish wood panels and a dining table between 2nd and 3rd seats. This sure has been a lot of work, but very satisfying.

  9. Pingback: Thinsulate Installation | FarOutRide

  10. Comment by Andy Eigan

    Andy Eigan Reply October 29, 2016 at 7:45 am

    “New 2016 Harness and Fuel Pump” for Webasto Air Top 2016. Question: I got a Webasto Air Top 2000 ST (second hand) fitted into my campervan a couple of years ago. It worked ok in the beginning, but the postioning of the heater hot air blow pipe made the floor vinyl hot and smell of burning. So I moved heater flexible pipe exit away from that area. But the heater still had an odour similar to something that had burnt out (or was about to burn out). It was not an overwhelming odour but you would know the heater was turned on. So I have bought a replacement for this old Webasto Air Top 2000 ST, one which was advertised on ebay recently for just over £400 (heater only). This heater is the “2016 STC” that has apparently replaced the “ST”. I have only bought the heater unit alone and was hoping to switch it with my existing system(harness,fuel pump,basic controller ect) that cost me quite a lot for parts & to get fitted originally. Will it work ok ?

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 29, 2016 at 9:58 am

      Hi Andy,

      I’m afraid this question is beyond my knowledge 🙁

      What I do know is, the Webasto products line is difficult to understand! There are many variations of the products and we could not find clear information about them. This is one of the reason we bought a complete installation KIT; to ensure everything would fit together!

      I suggest you to write to competent distributors/technicians such as Mellor Online or ButlerTechnik to find out. And send them pictures of your hardware with part numbers.

      Good luck!

      P.S. Could the smell comes from the exhaust fumes? I heard some people had to relocate their exhaust so the fumes do not exit directly under the van. And I would definitely install a CO detector (it it is not already installed), you never know!

  11. Comment by Ryan

    Ryan Reply November 9, 2016 at 12:58 pm

    What did you do to reduce the noise? I’m thinking some plywood lining around, under the seat and some insulation as well. Thoughts?

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply November 9, 2016 at 1:14 pm

      Oh, I see that we’ve been procrastinating with the Noise Reduction Post… here is a spoiler!

      – Fuel pump (outside but mostly inside the van): we inserted a closed-cell foam between the P-clamp holding the pump and between the van structure. We followed these recommendations as well: (click here).
      – Exhaust (outside the van): we installed this silencer: (click here)
      – Intake (outside the van): there is also a silencer available, but we missed it when we did our order… (click here)
      – Fan (inside the van): we did nothing so far, because the fan makes a constant noise and we don’t really care about that.

      Does it make a difference? Yes, but not THAT much. We think it is worth doing the modifications above as it helped to reduce the noise, but don’t expect to completely suppress the noise!

      Maybe someone out there has better solution?

  12. Comment by Ramsel

    Ramsel Reply December 29, 2016 at 11:16 pm

    Thanks you two for the blog post. I just installed mine and I don’t know how long it would have taken me to figure out without your advice. Some tips I discovered along the way and some comments:

    – I mounted the heater in the same location and routed the lines the same way as they did. The fuel line routing seemed perfect but the exhaust leaks directly into the van when I open the sliding door. There is a light smell even with the door closed, and I’m not sure if this is normal or maybe some exhaust is seeping through the seems of the slider. I’m going to either extend the exhaust pipe or route it to the left side of the van.

    – The position of the heater unit (if under the passenger seat) needs to be very precise. There’s only a small area you can access easily from underneath, and the position shown is it. I made the mistake of mounting it slightly too close to the passenger door, and when I went to lower it in one side hit the frame of the seat. I had to re-drill.

    – The jack I was able to mount left of the heater. I used one of the existing bolts directly, and was able to wedge the jack holder in between the seat frame and directly up against another one of the bolts. I just used a nut and washer on the second bolt to indirectly hold down the other side. It just happened to fit perfectly. See a photo here:

    – On starting the heater for the first time, I had to restart over 10 times to get hot air to blow. It blew only cold at first. I did here the fuel pump click so that was a good sign. Had me pretty worried, but working well now.

    Hope these tips further help future installs!

    And thanks again!

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply December 30, 2016 at 7:39 pm

      Thanks for the tips!
      We will eventually put the jack back under the passenger seat; we’ve been procrastinating… thanks for sharing your install.

      We don’t get any exhaust smell when all doors are closed. Feel free to share where you re-routed yours. Do you have a silencer? Exhaust length is restricted to only 2m with a silencer 🙁

      Enjoy the heat!

      • Comment by Hack Saw

        Hack Saw Reply December 30, 2016 at 7:44 pm

        Curious as to why your restricted to 2m with the use of the silencer? Can you not add another length of exhaust to the exhaust-port of the silencer hence an overall further distance from the (potential) door situation?

        • Comment by Antoine

          Antoine Reply December 30, 2016 at 8:12 pm

          The Webasto manual state that the exhaust length is restricted to 5 meters without silencer or 2 meters with silencer. Adding pipe length increase the pressure drop; those heater are sensitive to it. It could affect the combustion. That’s why I installed my exhaust near the sliding door. I always try to follow the manufacturer recommendations…

  13. Comment by Rober

    Rober Reply January 12, 2017 at 11:05 pm

    Hello! Just discovered your awesome site!!
    We are doing a Promaster build, wondered how to heat it, then found your page.
    We love the ideal of the gasoline burning Webasto, especially with under passenger seat placement.
    Bottom line, would you use Webasto again?
    I noticed you had an ST vs STC issue in N.America.
    Thanks again for all the time and effort you’ve put into this site, it really really helps.

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply January 13, 2017 at 7:21 am

      Hi Rober,
      we are still waiting for the Webasto diagnostic, but they are normally suppose to be reliable. We would use it again, but we would definitely buy the ST over the STC just to get technical support in North America.
      Glad you like the site 🙂

      • Comment by Robert

        Robert Reply January 14, 2017 at 2:01 am

        Thank you so much Antoine!
        Just found a semi-close (90min’s away) supplier who can get the ST model.
        Yes, your site is just wonderfully done. I have a little blog and I can see you’ve poured your heart and imagination into yours!

        • Comment by Antoine

          Antoine Reply January 15, 2017 at 9:42 am


  14. Comment by Evan

    Evan Reply January 13, 2017 at 1:01 pm

    Ordered an STC through ButlerTecnick before seeing your comments. I can’t find anywhere the difference between ST and STC. Is it just in the lack of North American technical support? Haven’t installed it yet, but am mapping everything out and wondering if it is a deal-breaker. Can you elaborate on your findings/recommendations? Incredibly helpful site BTW- you all are doing it beautifully.

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply January 13, 2017 at 4:45 pm

      The STC seems to be the “evolution” of the ST model. Same physical parts except for the fuel pump, control unit and harness. We were told the STC uses different running parameters. With the release of the STC, they also introduced the new MultiControl (the one we use). Our guess is that it is not available (or supported) yet in North America, but hopefully it will be eventually. Until the STC is supported here, we would buy the ST over the STC.
      Check these out:
      STC features and benefits
      STC vs ST

  15. Comment by Edwin

    Edwin Reply February 26, 2017 at 11:04 pm

    Great build, you need to keep the exhaust hose shorter than 6ft any added angles to the hose, 90 degree bend will reduce hose length by a foot. The silencer would also create back pressure creating carbon build up. Run unit twice a month throughout the year for at least 15min.

  16. Comment by Antoine

    Antoine Reply February 26, 2017 at 11:15 pm

    Thanks for the tips!

  17. Comment by Andrew

    Andrew Reply March 28, 2017 at 10:14 am

    Hey Antoine. Thanks for the overall build writeups and website, great stuff!

    The webasto seems like one of the more complicated installs of the whole build, and not an inexpensive component either. I was wondering just how warm it keeps the van when in use? I saw in your insulation article that you tested the insulation on a 37 degree night with the heater running and kept the van at 55 degrees. Was that by choice, with the heater running on low? Or was it maxed out? Just curious if it can keep the van at more regular temps (around 70), and if so, how hard is it working to do that?


    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply March 28, 2017 at 3:04 pm

      Hi Andrew!
      We keep the van at around 55F at night just because we think it’s fine, not because the Webasto is maxed out.
      The Webasto is able to maintain 70F inside the van when it’s -15F outside. This is the “worst” case we encountered. In that case, the Webasto was running on high constantly. If it’s around 32F outside, the Webasto runs on LOW.
      Raising the temps is a different story (from let’s say 15F to 70F); we will sometime use the van engine as a boost to shorten the time required.

      Obviously, your insulation will have a big impact on that.

      To make a long story short, we feel the Webasto Air Top 2000 is sufficient. I believe some people have installed the Webasto EVO unit (more BTU).

      Thanks for stopping by!

  18. Comment by Greg Iafeliece

    Greg Iafeliece Reply April 2, 2017 at 9:39 pm

    Well.. I was just reviewing your install before installing our STC unit that arrived. I guess I should have looked again before ordering the STC and stayed with the ST unit. Oh well..

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply April 3, 2017 at 10:00 am

      You won’t need any technical support if you install and operates it properly! You’re fine! 🙂 Do you put it under the seat?

  19. Comment by اغانى 2018

    اغانى 2018 Reply September 19, 2017 at 8:09 pm

    What’s up,I log on to your blog named “Webasto Air Heater Installation | FarOutRide” daily.Your story-telling style is awesome, keep doing what you’re doing! And you can look our website about اغانى 2018.

  20. Comment by Magda

    Magda Reply October 17, 2017 at 3:21 pm

    We also inatalled the stc model and have had multiple issues. We were told that its carbon buildup on the filter plate and that his unit does nkt function properly at elevation (they are assembled at sea level we were told). All in all itis not reliable and we are thinking of eventually replacing it with a diesel version which is supposed to be much better.

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 17, 2017 at 3:44 pm

      Yeah, I just opened the unit and there was indeed hard carbon on the combustion chamber; I installed a new chamber and adjusted the unit for high-altitude. We used the heater for 10-20 hours since then so it’s too soon to draw any conclusion. But it’s working great so far! We’ll see!

  21. Comment by AMAC

    AMAC Reply October 17, 2017 at 8:06 pm

    Antoine, how did you adjust the STC for high altitude? Did you connect the wire to ground, etc., as discussed in and does this procedure work for the 2000STC (I have the rheostat)? My supplier in the UK (and Webasto UK) did not seem to know anything about this procedure and said it would not work with UK heaters. I purchased my heater from the UK. Thank you.

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 17, 2017 at 4:09 pm

      We did exactly as described in the link, it seems to work (the light flashed) but there is no way to tell for sure…

  22. Comment by AMAC

    AMAC Reply October 19, 2017 at 6:00 pm

    Thank you. I was told by a Webasto dealer in the UK that the “wire to ground, etc.” procedure does not do anything unless the unit has the optional “RV ECU”. And the RV ECU is only available with diesel heaters, not our petrol/gas. I’m in the same predicament as you – I sure hope Webasto come out with a fix for the petrol heaters.
    BTW I extended out my (silencer-less) exhaust to 3 meters so as to minimize exhaust air being sucked into the intake. It terminates just in front of the right, rear wheel and is angled out and away from the vehicle underside. I am also going to lag the exhaust to try and minimize cooling of the exhaust gases.

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply October 20, 2017 at 1:06 pm

      Wow, is anyone is having luck with the Petrol heater??
      I don’t think webasto agree that there is an issue with their petrol heater…

      According to TechWebasto, the procedure should work with the petrol too, but who knows.

      Let’s keep in touch,

  23. Comment by John Gassel

    John Gassel Reply November 13, 2017 at 6:30 am

    Hey Antoine, I just ordered the same Webasto heater for my Transit this weekend and I’m trying to prep for the work and make sure I have the right supplies. You mentioned this regarding the fuel line:

    “The fitting was pre-fitted with 5/16” fuel line, then 1/4”, then the Webasto fuel line.”

    How did you connect the different fuel lines together? Is there some sort of fuel line reducing coupling or hose adapter that I need to buy? Thanks!

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply November 13, 2017 at 8:40 am

      They will fit one into the other, interference-fit. Then use FUEL-CLAMP to tighten them (you can buy them from Auto part shop. don’t use worm-clamp as it will let air inside the line). Refer to the picture above with the aux fuel tank port. Good luck!!

      • Comment by John Gassel

        John Gassel Reply November 13, 2017 at 8:48 am

        Okay thanks. It sounds like I’ll just need to see the parts in person. I feel there may be many trips to the auto parts store in my future like you guys. 🙂

  24. Comment by John

    John Reply November 18, 2017 at 4:42 pm

    Hey, going through the install right now and can’t find any information on the fuel pump wiring. Do you recall if the fuel pump has any polarity?

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply November 18, 2017 at 7:39 pm

      There is no polarity!

      • Comment by John

        John Reply November 19, 2017 at 7:36 am

        Sweet, I figued that was the case since there was no documentation about it at all. A mention of that would have been nice in the instructions though.

        You guys are becoming the authority on this install though. 😉 Thanks!

        • Comment by Antoine

          Antoine Reply November 19, 2017 at 8:37 am

          Thanks for your input, I just added the mention in our instructions!

          Good day!

  25. Comment by John Gassel

    John Gassel Reply November 20, 2017 at 1:19 pm

    Awesome that you guys keep all this info updated! I did eventually find the fuel pump in their schematic. I missed it at first because they provide more detail than most would care about.

    Anyways, almost finished he install last night after 2 days of work. Cold and rainy. Should have done this a month ago!

    Two last questions if you have a minute. 1) How did you mount the intake silencer? The plastic clip it came with seems pretty useless. 2) How far back did you run the exhaust line on rev2? I have 2x 1m lines and the muffler in the middle. Not sure I want to make it any longer but it’s right at the back end of the door which I’m not overly happy about.

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply November 20, 2017 at 8:03 pm

      1) Yeah, we used the plastic clip but it fell off. We wanted to fixed it somehow, but it’s been hanging from the unit for like 2 months (we have a leech so we don’t loose it). Sorry we’re not much help here 🙂

      2) We have 2 meters exhaust length, so the exhaust end dump outside the van “edge” just in front of the rear wheel. It’s at the back end of the sliding door, but when the heater runs, it’s because it’s cold outside so the door stay closed!

      3) Do you have the gasoline model? I would not suggest adding an exhaust muffler (too much air restriction), but maybe we were just unlucky (i’m referring to this: Let us know if it works in the long run!

      Good day!

      • Comment by John Gassel

        John Gassel Reply December 11, 2017 at 3:16 pm

        I ended up finding an extended clamp that worked really well for the intake mount. I have some pics and part numbers if you want I can email them to you. You’re welcome to try it and/or post info here.

        That’s where the good news ends though. Fired the heater up this weekend and got repeated F94 faults. That’s a temp sensor failure. Seems strange. I also don’t hear the fuel pump click at all. Not sure what the root cause is. Fuel pump problem causing no heat and temp failure. Or temp sensor problem not letting the fuel pump turn on. Planning to call wevasto shortly.

        One quick question I’m unsure about. Did you have to add a hose to the Ford aux to the inside the tank. I assumed there must be a channel to the top port that it draws from and it’s jus that small adapter but I can’t find much info about it.


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  27. Comment by Matt

    Matt Reply December 3, 2017 at 9:09 pm

    I have a gas promaster and looking to to add a heater. Sounds like you and many others have had piles of problems with the gas version of the webasto. Would you buy it again? Think espar is better?

    • Comment by Antoine

      Antoine Reply December 3, 2017 at 10:29 pm

      The jury’s not out yet. We replaced our combustion chamber and time will tell if the issues comes back or not. If the issues come back, I would not buy it again! I would probably install a diesel model with a small aux. diesel tank…
      I don’t know if the Espar is better than the Webasto, sorry I looked around but didn’t find any feedback.

      Good day,

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