EcoFlow Power Kit Electrical System | Start-To-Finish Installation

This is the start-to-finish installation of the EcoFlow Power Kit GEN2 electrical system in our Ford Transit van.

The Power Kit is an all-in-one, plug-and-play electrical system for campervans and RVs. While building a DIY system usually takes days, you can get a Power Kit up and running in just a few hours! If you are not familiar and/or still debating between an EcoFlow Power Kit or making your own DIY system from scratch (e.g. Victron), we documented our decision-making here: EcoFlow Power Kit (Plug and Play) vs Victron (DIY) | Decision Time!

This is still a work in progress; we will update as we go!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.

Material, Tools, Specs

Material

HEADS UP!

We found Campervan-HQ to have the best deals on the EcoFlow Power Kits, and we’d rather buy from an established dealer with warranty parts available and after-sales service (they’re based in Portland, Oregon). Use the links below and the code FAROUTRIDE10 at checkout to save 10% on your Power Kit. You won’t find a better deal anywhere else (if so, please contact us).

ITEM	DESCRIPTION	QTY	BUY
EcoFlow Power Kit – USA	50A RV GEN2 Power Kit with Console. 10% discount with code “FAROUTRIDE10”	1	Campervan-HQ
EcoFlow Power Kit – Canada	GEN1 Power Kit (GEN2 not available in Canada at the moment). 5% discount with code “FOR5EF”	1	TecVan.ca
5kWh Battery	Optional additional battery (so 10kWh total).	1	Campervan-HQ
Power Link	To monitor tank levels, temperatures, etc.	1	Campervan-HQ
48V A/C Cable	As required, to connect 48V appliances (air conditioner, etc).	1	Campervan-HQ
2-Pole Main Circuit Breaker	Main circuit breaker in the Distribution Panel.	1	30A 50A
15A Duplex Breaker	Duplex breakers let you add two circuits per slot in the distribution panel.	2	Amazon
20A Single Pole Breaker	To use with 20A outlets (e.g. induction, oven, or other high-power device).	2	Amazon

	ALTERNATOR CHARGING
BlueSea 285 Circuit Breaker 120A	To protect the ALT IN cable and acts as manual ON/OFF switch	1	Amazon
Enclosure for BlueSea 285 Breaker	No exposed terminals, and clean wall mount.	1	FarOutRide
4 AWG – 5/16″ (M8) Lug	To connect to Ford Transit CCP2.	1	Amazon
4 AWG – 1/4″ Lug	To connect to the breaker.	2	Amazon
Grounding Hardware	To create a new grounding point and connect the ALT IN negative wire, and grounding wires for the Power Hub and the Distribution Panel.	1	Bolt Nut Grease

	SHORE POWER CHARGING
Shore Power Inlet	We never go in campgrounds, but we still installed a 30A inlet just in case. If you are 100% sure to never use 30A shore, it is OK to install a 15A inlet.	1	15A Inlet 30A Inlet
Shore Power Entry Box	Allows to add shore power inlet to the Ford Transit through existing cutout in the D-Pillar; no drilling required!	1	15A Entry 30A Entry
Shore Power Adapter 30A Female to 15A Male	To plug a 30A shore power inlet to a “regular” 120V 15A Outlet at home.	1	Amazon

	SOLAR CHARGING
500W Solar Power	Products used and step-by-step installation: faroutride.com/solar

	DC LOADS
Fridge	We had this same refrigerator/freezer in FarOutVan 1.	1	Campervan-HQ
Roof Fan	We personally have the Maxxair MaxxFan Deluxe 6200K.		Campervan-HQ \| Amazon
Wall Fan	The Sirocco Elite II fan is ridiculously priced, but we loved it so much in FarOutVan 1 that we want is again. It’s mounted on a gimbal (360 multi-directional), is VERY silent (brushless motor), and features 3-level and timer options.		Amazon
Puck Lights	Same lights as FarOutVan 1, they’re great! We like the Warm White, which provides a cozy, soft atmosphere.		Amazon
Light Strip	We recessed it under our upper cabinet.		Amazon
USB Outlets	This specific outlet can power up to 100W on USB-C, and 18W on USB-A.		Amazon
Water Pump	Shurflo Revolution 4008. 3 Gallon Per Minute, 55 PSI.		Campervan-HQ \| Amazon
Gas Heater	The Espar AS3-B2L is tapped to the Transit gas tank, and draw a minimum amount of current to power its internal fan and glow plug (startup only).		Our Guide

	AC LOADS
15A Outlets	Located in electrical cabinet, kitchen countertop, water cabinet (for water heater), and at the front of the van (toilet cabinet).	4	Amazon

20A Outlets	For induction cooktop and oven, although 15A would work too. We used 20A to have an extra buffer to charge the laptops on these outlets.	2	Amazon
15L Water Heater (4 Gal)	The Isotemp Spa 15 is a dual-source water heater: Electric (AC 750W) and/or van’s coolant system.	1	Isotemp
Induction Cooktop	The Mini-Duo is one of the few units that modulate its power (constant low power), instead of pulsating (ON/OFF max power).	1	Amazon
Oven	We purchased this unit for the van, and loved it so much that we also got one for the house!	1	Amazon

	POWER LINK (SENSORS)
RJ45 Ethernet Splitter	Required to wire communication cable to Power Link.	1	Amazon
Tank Level Sensors	See our Water System Installation Guide.		Amazon
Temperature Sensors	NTC 10K/B3950 resistance-type. 3m cable.		Amazon

	OTHERS
Ferrules	To use on stranded wire that’s connecting into set-screw terminal.	VAR	Amazon
Heat Shrink Tubing (Red + Black)	To use when a ferrule or a terminal lug is added.	VAR	Amazon
Heat Shrink Tubing (Clear)	See Wire Labeling section.	VAR	Amazon

Tools

ITEM	DESCRIPTION	LINK
Wire Stripper / Cutter	To remove insulation from wires.	12-22 AWG 6-12 AWG
Utility Knife	To strip insulation from heavy gauge wires.	Amazon
10-in Cable Cutter	To cut large cables.	Amazon
Crimp Tool 8-22 AWG Single-Crimp	To crimp heat-shrink connector (single-crimp).	Amazon
Crimp Tool, Hydraulic 2/0-12 AWG	To crimp lugs and large ferrules.	Amazon
Ferrule Crimp Tool Hexagonal 5-28 AWG	To crimp ferrules on stranded wire. (Hexagonal is suited for round connectors featured on the EcoFlow Distribution Panel)	Amazon
MC4 Crimper Tool Kit	To pass solar cables through the roof (as required)	Amazon
Heat Gun	For heat shrink connectors and tubing.	Amazon
P-Touch	See Wire Labeling section.	Amazon
RJ45 Ethernet Cable Crimp Kit	Optional to shorten Ethernet cables.	Amazon

Specs

	GEN 1	GEN 2
POWER HUB
Dimensions	18.9″ x 5.5″ x 11.8″	Same dimensions
Weight	31 lb	34 lb
AC Out	3600W	5kVA
AC Voltage	120V	120V or 240V
Battery Ports	3 Battery Ports (including 48V Output)	3 Battery Ports + 48V Output
DC Out (max)	70A	100A
Solar Input	15-150V 30A\|30A\|30A	13-60V 60A\|30A\|30A
Alternator Input	60A (PV Input 1)	100A (PV Input 1)
Noise	?	Reduced from (?) to 48 dB
DISTRIBUTION PANEL
Dimensions	8.3″H x 13.9″W x 3.9″D	15.3″ x 5.3″ x 10.6″
Weight	5.7 lb	8.8 lb
DC Out	12 DC Out (1-12: 20A)	16 DC Out (1-13: 30A 14-16: 50A)
Controllable Circuits	6 (1-6)	All 16
AC Out	6 AC Out (20A each)	12 AC Out (30A each)
AC In	30A AC Breakers (proprietary)	30/50A AC Breakers (standard)
TOUCH-SCREEN	7-in “Console”	10-in “Power Insight” * Read note below table.
Power Link NEW!	Compatible with GEN 1
Voltage Sensors		4
Resistance Sensors		4
Digital Inputs		1
Relays		2
Power Dock NEW!	Compatible with GEN 1	Adds 3 battery ports to any battery port on the Power Hub. So a total of 9 batteries can be connected to a Power Hub.
BATTERIES		No changes from GEN 1 to GEN 2.

* We have reports from beta testers that the 10-in Power Insight draws a lot of power for itself, and as such, the 7-in Console may be a better choice for mobile systems (vans, RVs, etc.) to prevent phantom battery loss. Campervan-HQ now offers the 7-in Console as an option with the GEN2 Power Kits.

EcoFlow’s User Manuals

Weight

Weight breakdown of the EcoFlow Power Kit components:

ITEM	WEIGHT
2kWh Battery	37.7 lbs
5kWh Battery	89.5 lbs
Power Hub GEN 1	31 lbs
Power Hub GEN 2 (5kVA)	34.6 lbs
Distribution Panel	8.8 lbs
Power Link	0.26 lb
Console Display	1 lb
Various cables	~ 100 lbs (estimate)

Specifically in our van, we’re looking at around 325 lbs (2 x 5kWh, Power Hub Gen 2, Distribution Panel, Power Link, Console Display, cables).

Cabinet

We installed our EcoFlow Power Kit at the back of the van, on the driver’s side, in a custom electrical cabinet. We have the Extended-Length Transit, so there is enough room for two 5 kWh batteries between the wheel well and the D-Pillar. Below is an overview of how we made the cabinet:

Before, without the electrical cabinet:

After, with the electrical cabinet in place:

The removable front panel makes it really easy to install the batteries in the cabinet:

Cabinet with Batteries, Power Hub (Gen2), Distribution Panel (Gen2), and Power Link (for tank level, temperature sensors):

The front cover slides down:

The top cover is screwed into rivet nuts (in an aluminum angle) and locks the front cover into place:

Top cover’s hardware:

To allow passive ventilation, we laser-cut MOLLE doors (aluminum, black textured powder-coated) with the same pattern as our Transit Rear Door MOLLE Panels, so that we can use the same accessories:

The doors are mounted with piano hinges and open 180 degrees for easy access to the components in the cabinet:

Same, but looking back (120V outlet shown):

To prevent rattling, the doors are preloaded into a soft TPU (rubber) Door Stop that we 3D printed:

At the bottom, we stuck an off-the-shelf soft bumper. We keep things simple when we can 🙂

The cabinet’s CNC and 3D Print files are available here:

Electrical Cabinet for EcoFlow Power Kit GEN2 (10kWh) | CNC File

Mounting

But first, unboxing:

Unboxing is oddly satisfying and shapes the things to come; everything is neatly packaged and organized. No components were damaged.

First glance at the hardware:

When I first saw the components, I could tell EcoFlow was founded by ex-DJI employees. Just like my Bambulab 3D printer. They share similarities. The hardware is very refined, and the material has a very high-end feel. All the included cables are protected in sheathing and conduit. An “Apple-like” experience. So far, it inspires confidence.

Batteries

The EcoFlow Power Kit comes with all the battery mounting hardware. It’s very well designed and should work for most people:

There’s nothing wrong with the included hardware, but we discarded everything, except the straps, and made our own to fit in our custom cabinet. We used an aluminum angle from the hardware store and cut it to the desired lengths:

There are 1.5mm deep channels underneath to provide a “path” for the battery straps:

Power Hub

Just like all EcoFlow’s components, the Power Hub comes with all the mounting hardware (and even a 1:1 template!).

A 1:1 template is included, making it very easy to locate the screw holes for the center, lower, and top brackets:

We install the center mounting bracket with #12 x 1/2″ stainless screws (the included screws were too long for 1/2″ plywood):

We then attached the lower & top brackets to the Power Hub (with the included screws), and then screwed the brackets to the cabinet with #12 x 1/2″ stainless screws:

Distribution Panel

The GEN 1 Distribution Panel can be surface-mounted to a wall using the provided hardware. The GEN 2 Distribution Panel (30/50A), however, must be flushed-mounted through a 361mm wide x 241mm tall cutout:

Power Link

The EcoFlow’s Power Link (for tank level and temperature sensors) is surface-mounted to a wall, using two screws (we used #8 screws). Leave some space above for the communication cables, and some space below for the sensor wires:

Console (Display)

The console will be mounted to our Dashboard a bit later, we’re not there yet!

Cables Management

We left a 1.125in gap behind the batteries to hide the battery cables. We also designed 3D Printed Cable Management Clips to prevent vibration-related movement (chafing) and to mount the RJ45 Splitter. AND because we have a thing for cable management ☺️

3D Printed Cable Management Clips

Connections and Wiring

The EcoFlow Power Kit includes most cables, which are pre-wired (the connectors already installed so that you can skip the cut/crimp/heat shrink!).

Cables included with the Power Kit (GEN2):

DC OUT (Power Hub -> Distribution Panel). 3 AWG.
AC OUT (Power Hub -> Distribution Panel). 6 AWG.
ALT IN (Alternator Power -> Power Hub). 3 AWG.
AC IN (Shore Power Inlet -> Power Hub). 6 AWG.
PV IN (Solar Power -> Power Hub).
BATTERY (Battery(ies) -> Power Hub).
Communication Ethernet Cables (Power Hub, Distribution Panel, Console, Power Link).

Cables NOT included with the Power Kit:

DC LOADS (fan, fridge, lights, water pump, etc.).
AC LOADS (Induction, water heater, oven, 120V outlets, etc.).

To Use Ferrules Or Not

Most terminals on the EcoFlow 30/50A Distribution Panel (GEN2) are set-screw type, except for the DC + loads bus bar which utilizes lever-nut type):

The connection relies on a screw that bears directly into the wire strands. We’re not super-fans of this, because there is a risk of damaging the finely stranded wires. This could result in a higher resistance point, voltage drop, or wire damage (vibration-induced).

Some set-screw terminals feature a pressure plate to distribute the load over a larger surface. That’s not the case here; so we prefer to use ferrules to achieve load distribution. This is acceptable PER ABYC (more info here).

Note that the DC + loads bus bar utilizes lever-nut type terminals; do not use ferrules on those.

1. Strip the wire and insert a non-insulated ferrule (cleaner install and more compact than insulated ones):

2. Use a ferrule crimp tool to secure the ferrule:

3. We like to add adhesive-activated heat shrink tubing with a heat gun:

Wire Labeling

Soon, you’ll have a spaghetti of wires in your van. So:
Label. Your. Wires.
Future you will thank you!

We tried different methods and only one provided clear, permanent labeling:

1. Use a P-Touch (this one is Bluetooth; type and print from your phone) with 6mm label to create a label:

2. Stick the label to the cable:

3. Slide clear heat shrink over the label and set with a heat gun:

30/50A Distribution Panel (Gen2)

DC Out Cable
(Included)

Connect the DC OUT cable positive (red) to the terminal labeled as “DC IN +” on the front of the Distribution Panel:

Connect the DC OUT cable negative (black) to the terminal labeled as “DC IN -” on the right side of the Distribution Panel:

Connect the DC OUT cable to the right side of the Power Hub:

Shortening the Length of the DC OUT Cable

We decided to shorten the DC OUT cable to keep things tidy. We added ferrules to the positive and negative wires (3 AWG). Because our ferrule crimp tool can’t crimp 3 AWG cables, we used the Temco Hydraulic Crimper with “6 AWG+” size (using 3 AWG size wouldn’t work, because ferrules are much thinner than lugs).

AC OUT Cable
(Included)

First, you must buy the Main Circuit Breaker (2-pole). EcoFlow supports the model listed below (more models in the manual):

Install the Main Circuit Breaker on the lower-left side of the Distribution Panel (identified as “MAIN L1 L2”):

Before:

Breaker in place:

Lock the main circuit breaker using the provided hold-down bracket:

Connect “L” (black) wire to L1 of the main breaker;
Connect “N” (white) to the neutral terminal;
Connect “PE” (green) to the ground terminal:

Connect the AC OUT cable to the right side of the Power Hub:

Shortening the Length of the AC OUT Cable

It is totally acceptable to keep the full length of the AC OUT cable. However, we decided to shorten it to keep things tidy:

The three wires (6 AWG) are encapsulated in protective sheathing and a thick rubber conduit. You will have to remove the rubber conduit (see next photo) and install ferrules:

To prevent damage to the inner wires’ insulation, use a carpenter’s knife to cut the rubber conduit along its length, starting at the extremity. Then work your way up. This way, you can see the depth of your cut. Do not go all the way through; aim for 90% depth and use force to tear the remaining depth. Again, this is all to prevent damaging the inner wire’s insulation.

Alternator

Accessing Alternator Power

How to tap into alternator power varies with brand/model/variant. Ensure to follow your owner’s manual!

Ford Transit: BEMM.
Mercedes Sprinter: BEG.
Ram ProMaster: Body Builder’s Guide.

ALT IN Positive Connection
(Included, but we changed the terminal lug)

Our Ford Transit 2021 has two CCP (Customer Connection Points) connections, located on the driver-side pedestal:

CCP1 (bottom): 60A fuse. M5 stud and nut.
CCP2 (top): 175A fuse. M8 stud and nut.

The EcoFlow Power Kit GEN2 can charge up to 100A (12V alternator) if using PV1 input. We can therefore connect to the Transit CCP2. The CCP2 is fused at 175A, but we are adding a BlueSea 120A breaker to protect the EcoFlow ALT IN wire (3 AWG) and to act as a manual ON/OFF switch. The BlueSea 285 circuit breakers utilize 1/4″ studs.

Overcurrent Protection

Fuses and breakers are the weakest link in an electrical circuit. They are meant to protect the wires when the current goes higher than what they can handle. Learn more: Electrical System Guide | Overcurrent Protection

1. On the ALT IN cable, we kept the OEM lug (5/16″ or M8) on the negative wire, but installed a 1/4″ lug on the positive wire:

2. We prepared the cable connecting the breaker (1/4″ stud) to the Ford Transit CCP2 (M8 stud). We cut a short section at the extremity of the ALT IN cable (3 AWG):

3. We prewired the BlueSea 285 Breaker (120A):

4. At last, we connected the wire to the Ford Transit CCP2 (M8 threads) and installed the breaker in its enclosure (secured to the seat pedestal with VHB tape):

ALT IN Negative Connection
(Included, no change)

Firsts things firsts, BEMM Section 4.5.3:

High electrical loads should also be grounded directly to the vehicle body and not the negative battery terminal. Connecting to the negative battery terminal will bypass the BMS and affect the correct assessment of the battery state of charge. Refer to BMS section in this manual.

The Ford Transit BEMM recommends the following ground points, and these should be used if possible:

That being said, the BEMM does not mention if these ground points are suited for large current or not… some of them don’t seem suited for large current… We will therefore use this wildcard that seems to have appeared in the 2025 BEMM (Section 4.25, page 222):

If a new grounding point is required, avoid placing it in a wet area, especially for high current grounds. Ground connections should be routed back close to the location of the +12V supply. This helps to reduce the electromagnetic field particularly generated by inrush current and improve electromagnetic compatibility.

We will create a new grounding point not far from the +12V supply (the van’s battery), just behind the driver seat:

1. We drilled a hole and, using a wire brush, we removed the paint on the surface mating with the terminal lug (this is a high-current application, we want as much surface contact as possible; do NOT rely on bolt’s threads for conduction!):

2. We inserted a M8-1.25 x 16mm serrated flanged bolt (stainless), applied dielectric grease on the bare metal (to prevent corrosion), then added the ALT IN negative wire, and a M8 serrated nut (stainless). Do not use a washer between the van chassis and terminal lug:

3. Another angle:

4. Connect the ALT IN cable into the EcoFlow Power Hub:

ALT IN Cable Protection

All wires must be protected from abrasion, cuts, and chafing; this is especially true in a mobile application subject to vibration! Use grommets on sharp edges, and secure the cables in split-loom tubing. Got a 3D printer? Sweet! We designed grommets (printed in TPU) to protect against sharp edges through the C-Pillar:

3D Printed Grommets for C-Pillar

Shore Power

CHoosing between 30A or 15A Inlet

(Both the GEN1 or GEN2 Power Hubs can accept 30A AC INPUT)

30A

CHARGE POWER: 3000W.

CHARGE TIME: 20 minutes for each 1kWh.
(e.g. 100 minutes for 5kWh).

Regular house outlets are rated for up to 15A (20A sometimes). To enable 30A charging, you must visit campgrounds, State and National Parks, travel centers, etc (though not all provide 30A shore power).

15A

CHARGE POWER: 1500W.

CHARGE TIME: 40 minutes for each 1kWh.
(e.g. 200 minutes for 5kWh).

You can install a 15A inlet if you never plan on charging 30A. That’s most likely our situation, but we still installed a 30A inlet just in case… See below.

1. Route the AC IN cable (included) into the existing openings near the Transit D-Pillar:

2. Route the AC IN cable through the existing cutout under the D-Pillar. No drilling required!

3. Route the AC IN cable through the Shore Power Entry Box and the Marinco inlet’s safety enclosure:

4. Insert the gasket and connect the wires into the 30A Marinco Inlet:

4. Fasten the strain relief:

5. Fasten the Marinco Inlet into the Entry Box using the 4 included screws (it’s a TIGHT fit, not exactly easy, but doable!). Do NOT overtight the screws; hand-tight to slightly compress the gasket, not more.
The wires should exit at the BOTTOM of the box, to create a drip loop (forces water to drip at the bottom, prevents water from entering the inlet):

6. Push the entry box into the D-Pilar cutout, one edge after the other:

7. Voilà, we made it!

8. You can use a 30A (female) to 15A (male) adapter to connect to a 15A “normal” house outlet. Like this one (Buy on Amazon):

9. This one (Buy on Amazon) has much smaller footprint, I like it better:

10. Important! The EcoFlow Power Kit can charge up to 30A. Before connecting to a 15A house outlet, ensure to limit the AC input current to 15A to prevent blowing the fuse of the house outlet. This can be done via the smartphone App or the Console display.

Shortening the Length of the AC IN (Shore Power) Cable

It is totally acceptable to keep the full length of the AC IN cable. But if you decide to shorten it, be aware that removing the insulation without damaging the inner wire is quite difficult.

The three wires (3 AWG) are encapsulated in protective sheathing and a thick rubber conduit. High quality!

Solar Panels

Solar panels of any brand can be connected in series (same current, voltage is added) or parallel (same voltage, current is added). Remember that mixing solar panels (different brands/specs) should be avoided if possible (refer to: faroutride.com/electrical-system/#mixing-solar-panels). Solar panels can be connected to the PV Input 1, 2, or 3 of the Power Hub, as long as these specifications are met:

GEN 1 Power Hub

PV Input 1: 15-60V | 30A.
PV Input 2: 15-60V | 30A.
PV Input 3: 15-60V | 30A.

GEN 2 Power Hub

PV Input 1: 13-60V | 100A.
PV Input 2: 13-60V | 30A.
PV Input 3: 13-60V | 30A.

We reserved PV Input 1 for alternator charging, because it allows charging at a high rate (100A). We are left with PV 2 and PV 3 for solar:

Installing the solar panels involves the EcoFlow Power Kit, as well as the roof rack. We packaged it all together in this guide:

Adding Solar Power to a Van (Electrical & Roof install)