Threaded inserts such as cross nuts and rivet nuts are placed into unthreaded factory holes of vans to create strong, re-usable joints. They allow to use the existing holes instead of drilling new ones, which saves time and helps prevent corrosion. But it’s not all rainbows and unicorns… an improper installation may result in the insert losing its grip, then spinning or popping out of its hole. Below is a comprehensive guide on how to be successful with threaded inserts, from choosing the correct insert to the installation! Hope this helps 🙂
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.
1. Prelude
(Good to know)
1.1. Paint
Steel, which your van is made of, corrodes (rust) in presence of moisture and oxygen and the damage done to its structural properties is irreversible. A multilayer coating system, aka paint (primer, basecoat, topcoat) applied on steel offers a seal against the environment and therefore prevents rust.
Any steel left “bare” (without paint) after trimming or drilling a hole is a potential starting point for rust. For example, below is a photo of our friend’s work van. You can clearly tell the paint wasn’t restored after trimming and drilling, and the rust situation is much worst on bare edges (around the fan cutout and the screws):
1.2. Sheet metal screws
Why bother with threaded inserts when sheet metal screws are a thing? Here are a few reasons why:
- Rust. The screw removes the paint protection (see above).
- Not reusable. Not meant to be reusable as removing/reinstalling a screw several times enlarges the hole.
- Thread engagement. That’s the number of threads anchored into the material. Ideally, at least 2-3 threads should be engaged in steel to provide a good grip. In thin sheet metal (e.g. 0.032″), less than 1 thread is engaged:
And at last, long term joint integrity will be compromised by rust forming around the edge of the hole (no structural properties). Add vibration into the mix, and joint may get loose over time.
2. Benefits of Threaded Inserts
Threaded inserts offer the following benefits:
- Stronger and reusable threads.
- Help prevent corrosion.
- “Blind” installation.
2.1. Stronger & Reusable threads
Threaded inserts offer stronger joints compared to sheet metal screws, because the load is distributed over a larger surface and the expansion mechanism increases the grip into the thin material.
After the threaded insert is installed into the sheet metal, a fastener can be installed/removed multiple times without damaging the integrity of the joint.
2.2. Helps prevent corrosion
A van comes from the factory with pre-drilled, unthreaded holes all over the cargo area. Threaded inserts can be used to create joints without having to drill new holes, which would expose bare metal and potentially create corrosion.
2.3. Blind Installation
Installing bolts and nuts requires access from both sides (front and back). On the other hand, cross nuts and rivet nuts only require access to a single side (front); this is called “blind access”. And as it turns out, many pre-drilled holes in our Ford Transit have blind access so that’s quite convenient.
3. Drawbacks
Threaded inserts have the following drawbacks:
- Cost more than sheet metal screws or bolts/nuts.
- Require installation tools and time. More on that in the Tools & Installation section.
- Have to deal with the location of pre-drilled holes. They might not be exactly where you want them. That being said, it’s OK to drill a few holes (outside the no-drill zones prescribed by the manufacturer) and add some corrosion protection…
4. Threaded Insert Types
There are dozen of different threaded insert types, each one of them designed for a specific application. Let’s review those that are useful for a van conversion:
- Cross nuts.
- Rivet nuts.
- Hex rivet nuts.
- Squaresert®.
4.1. Cross Nuts
A cross nut is a threaded insert featuring a slotted body that splits into four legs during installation. The four legs grip the back of the surface as follows:
Cross nuts are available as straight body or pre-bulbed body. Pre-bulbed cross nuts require less force at installation but need a slightly larger hole than straight cross nuts:
Pros
- Very high pull-out strength (rated at 1,215 lbf in 0.030 thick steel sheet metal).
- Ideal for soft materials or thin sheet metal.
- Can work for oversized holes or odd shape cutouts (e.g., some square cutouts in the Transit). However, spinout resistance will be reduced.
Cons
- Lower spinout resistance (see our experiment below).
- More variation in installation (sensitive to proper torque, tool angle, etc.).
- Require more depth clearance in the back (due to their long body).
- Cost more than rivet-nut.
4.2. Rivet Nuts
A rivet nut is a threaded insert featuring a shank that deforms and expands during installation. The body expansion and bulge in the back create a uniform grip around the periphery of the hole. The first rivet nut (trademark as Rivnut) was invented by BFGoodrich in the 1930s to mount de-icing boots to aircraft wings (source). The rivet nut shown below features a knurled body (ribs) that helps increase spinout resistance:
Rivet nuts are also known as:
- RivNut® (Bollhoff).
Pros
- Higher spinout resistance.
- Ideal for thin sheet metal.
- Fast installation, predictable and not too finicky.
Cons
- Lower pull-out strength than cross nuts (1/4-20 are rated at 480 lbf in 0.030″ thick steel). Despite that, this is still more than enough!
- Not suited for soft materials (e.g., plastic).
4.3. Half Hex Rivet Nuts
A half hex rivet nut is similar to a rivet nut, except that its body has a hexagonal shape that increases spinout resistance. To be effective against spinout, a half hex rivet nut must be inserted in a hex hole. It is interesting to note that the Ford Transit has several hex holes from factory:
They can be found on Amazon: Half Hex Rivet Nuts.
4.4. Square Rivet Nuts
When researching threaded fasteners, we stumbled upon “Squaresert®” which are similar to hex rivet nuts, but with a square body. Our Ford Transit also features several “square holes”, so these would work:
We found about Squaresert® on hansonrivet.com.
5. An experimentation on spinout resistance
Spinout is the most common issue with crossnuts and rivet nuts. When an insert spins, it is not possible to torque or remove a fastener from the insert. Spinout resistance is the capacity of a threaded insert to resist spinning, and is generally determined by:
- The type of insert (crossnut vs rivetnut).
- The installation conditions (tool used, hole size, material thickness, etc).
The “crossnut vs rivet nut” debate is very polarized on online discussion groups… it goes all the way back to 2010 and dozen of new threads are popping out to this day, but we still don’t have a consensus! Under those circumstances, we decided to take a more experimental approach to the spinout problem.
Spinout Resistance Test
Our goals
- Determine which threaded insert has a better spinout resistance: cross nuts or rivet nuts.
- Determine if spinout resistance can be increased with the following:
- Regular washer.
- Split washer.
- Tooth-lock washer.
- CA glue.
- Red Loctite.
- J-B Weld.
Notes
- Our goal is not to quantify the “real-world” spinout torque value. In a “real-world” application, there is a non-rotating material between the bolt and the insert (the stuff you’re trying to mount). This creates friction on the insert’s head and greatly increases the spinout torque value.
- This is NOT science 😉 We don’t have enough specimens, the holes are not all perfectly identical, we may introduce variations during installation (we’re humans not robots), etc. But that’s good enough to decide which threaded inserts we will use in our van!
Tools & Material
- Automatic Center Punch.
- Astro 1450 PlusNut and rivet nut setter.
- Neiko Digital Torque Adapter.
- Wen 4208T Drill Press.
- 23/64″ drill bit.
- 21 gauge (.032″ thick) steel sheet.
- 1/4-20 crossnut.
- M6 crossnuts.
- M6 rivet nuts.
Procedure
- Drill a matrix of identical holes (9.25mm/0.364in).
- Install cross nuts and rivet nuts without and with “helpers” (adhesive, washers).
- Record spinout torque.
Results
Conclusions
- Rivet nuts have higher spinout resistance, no washer of adhesive are required. (Spinout torque is higher than the recommended tightening torque, and as a result I sheared a bolt during the test.)
- Cross nuts spinout torque is lower and is less predictable, but adding a tooth lock washer under the head completely prevented it from spinning in our test (until bolt damage). The tooth lock washer also helps the cross nut sit flush and straight with the mating surface.
- J-B weld is the most efficient adhesive and is able to completely prevent a cross nut from spinning. This is because it is capable of filling the void (as opposed to CA glue or Loctite that are too thin). All things considered using a tooth lock washer is more practical, but J-B Weld could be used to lock a spinning cross nut after the fact.
Other Observations
- We found that rivet nuts have more constant and predictable spinout torque and are less finicky to install. They always sit perfectly flush (straight) with the mating surface. In our tests a M6 (1/4-20) rivet nut spec’d for a 9mm hole worked well for a hole up to ~10mm, but didn’t work well at 11.0mm.
- Rivet nuts provides a uniform and tight grip around the hole and could probably make a waterproof joint if used in conjunction with sealant.
- Cross nuts spinout torque vary more and is less predictable.
- Because of the flange under the head, cross nuts do not sit flush with the mating surface. They often end up being angled, forming a gap between the head and the mating surface. A washer fitted between the head and the mating surface helps mitigate this.
- Overtightening fasteners should always be avoided to prevent damage to bolt/insert: recommended tightening torque.
Our thoughts on these results
We will prioritize rivet nuts over cross nuts in the new van build. That being said, we still think cross nuts paired with tooth lock washers have their place for non-standard holes (oversized hole, hex or square), or to use with softer material somewhere in our build. It’s good to have options!
If you are currently building a van and already installed cross nuts, don’t freak out! We used cross nuts exclusively for our first build, and we got only one or two spinners. They do work!
6. Understanding Specifications
Spinout and pull-out resistance drop dramatically if the insert is not installed within its intended specifications. When choosing a threaded insert, here is what to look for:
Hole Diameter
This is the diameter of the hole receiving the insert:
Grip
Grip is the thickness of the material receiving the insert:
Thread
The threads of both the insert and the bolt must be identical:
In the example above, I measured 10.01mm hole diameter and 0.81mm material thickness. According to the table below, the M6 x 1.0 cross nut is a pretty good match! The material thickness is within range. The hole is a bit out of range (0.08mm oversized), but close enough.
Metric vs Imperial Threads
Bolts, screws, threaded inserts, etc., are typically offered with metric or imperial thread:
Male threads (e.g. bolt) must always match the female threads (nut, threaded insert) in order to fit.
Just like bolts, threaded fasteners are offered with Metric or Imperial threads. For a specific hole diameter, you can generally choose between metric or imperial (“equivalent” inserts). The outside dimensions of equivalent inserts are identical, only the internal threads are different:
Below is a table of equivalent inserts (inserts with identical outside dimensions):
| Metric | Imperial |
|---|---|
| M4 | #8 |
| M5 | #10 |
| M6 | 1/4 |
| M8 | 5/16 |
| M10 | 3/8 |
Choosing Metric or Imperial is a matter of personal preference. In the Ford Transit, most threaded holes are Metric, so it makes sense to choose Metric threaded inserts for consistence. That being said, if your brain is wired in Imperial, then it’s OK to choose Imperial threaded inserts!
7. Rivet Nut & Cross Nut Finder
Bookmark this: faroutride.com/threaded-inserts/#finder
Find Rivet Nut or Cross Nut by hole diameter:
Rivet Nut
| Click to Buy | Hole Min. | Hole Max. | Grip Min. | Grip Max. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| M4 x 0.70 | 6.00 | 6.18 | 0.45 | 1.52 |
| M5 x 0.80 | 7.00 | 7.21 | 0.45 | 1.52 |
| M6 x 1.00 | 9.00 | 9.27 | 0.45 | 2.28 |
| M8 x 1.25 | 11.00 | 11.33 | 0.45 | 3.04 |
| M10 x 1.50 | 13.00 | 13.39 | 0.45 | 3.04 |
| Click to Buy | Hole Min. | Hole Max. | Grip Min. | Grip Max. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| #8-32 | 0.236 | 0.243 | 0.018 | 0.060 |
| #10-24 | 0.276 | 0.284 | 0.018 | 0.060 |
| 1/4-20 | 0.354 | 0.365 | 0.018 | 0.090 |
| 5/16-18 | 0.433 | 0.446 | 0.018 | 0.120 |
| 3/8-16 | 0.512 | 0.527 | 0.018 | 0.120 |
NOTE: Hole is slightly over the recommended max. diameter. It should work none the less, but adhesive such as CA glue (SuperGlue) or J-B Weld can be used at your convenience to prevent spinout.
NOTE: Hole is over the recommended max. diameter. Consider installing the insert with adhesive such as CA glue (SuperGlue) or J-B Weld to prevent spinout.
We couldn't find a River Nut for this hole diameter.
We couldn't find any Rivet Nut, because the hole diameter entered is out of range. Consider enlarging (drilling) the hole up to the next available size (mm).
Cross Nut
| Click to Buy | Hole Min. | Hole Max. | Grip Min. | Grip Max. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| M5 x 0.8 | 7.92 | 8.05 | 0.50 | 4.45 |
| M6 x 1.00 | 9.80 | 9.93 | 0.50 | 7.10 |
| M8 x 1.25 | 12.29 | 12.42 | 0.50 | 7.10 |
| M10 x 1.50 | 14.27 | 14.45 | 0.50 | 7.10 |
| Click to Buy | Hole Min. | Hole Max. | Grip Min. | Grip Max. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| #10-32 | 0.312 | 0.317 | 0.020 | 0.175 |
| 1/4-20 | 0.386 | 0.391 | 0.020 | 0.280 |
| 5/16-18 | 0.484 | 0.489 | 0.020 | 0.280 |
| 3/8-16 | 0.562 | 0.569 | 0.020 | 0.280 |
NOTE: Hole is slightly over the recommended max. diameter. It should work none the less, but adhesive such as J-B Weld can be used at your convenience to prevent spinout.
NOTE: Hole is over the recommended max. diameter. Consider installing the insert with adhesive such as J-B Weld to prevent spinout.
We couldn't find a Cross Nut for this hole diameter.
We couldn't find any Cross Nut, because the hole diameter entered is out of range. Consider enlarging (drilling) the hole up to the next available size (mm).
NOTE: Hole is slightly undersized. You will have to tap with a hammer to make it fit (the pre-bulbed portion is slightly larger).
General Note: We recommend using a Tooth Lock Washer at all times with cross nuts to prevent spinout.
* Ensure that material thickness receiving the insert is within Grip Min. / Grip Max values.
8. Threaded Inserts for your Van
8.1. Ford Transit
We collected and mapped the dimensions of ALL the holes in the Transit cargo area: Ford Transit Cargo Holes Dimensions.
Using the data gathered above, we were able to determine the type and the size of the threaded insert to use for EACH HOLE:
Ford Transit Cargo Threaded Inserts
148" Wheel Base | Extended-Length | High-Roof | 2021
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8.2. Mercedes Sprinter
We don't have access to a Sprinter so we couldn't take the actual measurement, but here are the most common Sprinter cross nuts according to the Internet:
8.3. Ram ProMaster
9. Tools & How To Install
9.1. Tools
Here are a few options that work for both cross nuts and rivet nuts:
McMaster-Carr
A low-cost tool to manually install crossnuts and rivet nuts, a bit more effort and time consuming compared to the other options. This is a "pull-type" tool, meaning the mandrel of the tool do NOT turn into the insert, minimizing potential damage. Note that this tool only does one type of threads; you will need to buy a separate tool for each type of threads (e.g., 1/4-20, M6x1.0, etc.).
Astro 1450
This is a "pull-type" tool, meaning the mandrel of the tool do NOT turn into the insert, minimizing potential damage. This tool comes with mandrels for several types of thread (10-32, 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, M5, M6, M8 & M10), which is quite nice. Fast and easy to operate.
Pneumatic Tool
This is a "turn-type" pneumatic tool (the mandrel turns into the insert, so there is a slight risk of damaging the threads of the insert). A low-effort and fast option, but an air compressor is required.
DIY Tool
Dirt cheap DIY tool to install cross nuts and rivet nuts manually. This is how we install ALL our cross nuts (80+) in our first van. It worked, but we would NOT recommend it because it takes SO MUCH time and effort. The bolt and K-nut also wear out super fast and need to be changed every 5 cross nuts or so. So, make yourself a favor and invest a little in a proper tool that will give good results with little effort and time! Our 2 cents!
9.2. How To Install
10. How To Transfer a Hole Pattern
Now let's suppose you have to install a wall panel (or anything really), and it has to be attached via 4 threaded inserts (more or less). The threaded inserts form a "pattern" which must be replicated precisely to the wall panel, or else the bolts won't align into the inserts:
When the panel is still blank (no holes), how can you tell where to drill the holes, so that bolts align perfectly into the threaded inserts?
By placing transfer screws into the threaded inserts and then pushing the panel against them, you can precisely replicate the hole pattern into the panel!
Transfer screws are threaded on one end, and sharp and pointy on the other end. They easily leave a mark on the panel.
Hanger bolts can act as cheap DIY transfer screws, but because they protrude so much out of the cross nut (or rivet nut) they're not very precise. That's what we used for our fist build, and we had to enlarge the holes to compensate for the low precision. For the upcoming build, we will definitely use true transfer screws:
Hanger Bolts
Transfer Screws
On Second Thought...
Installing threaded fasteners such as cross nuts or rivet nuts is more time consuming than screwing directly through the metal, sure. But unless you’re converting an old rusty van for the short term only, it will protect your investment in the long run. There is nothing like knowing you did things the right way! 🙂
We used cross nuts exclusively for our first van conversion, and it honestly worked just fine! We see our second van conversion as an opportunity to improve and make things even better, so we will definitely revisit and re-evaluate topics like this as we progress in our build. We learned a lot by making this page, and we hope you learned something too while reading it! Happy build!
Antoine,
Great and very useful coverage of rivnuts and cross nuts. Many thanks for the rivnut calculator and for documenting all the holes in the Transit.
Just wanted to share that there is a faster, easier DIY method. It is perhaps easier than the manual “squeeze” tool. It is somewhat similar to your DIY method, but uses a drill, the proper bolt (eg M6) with a slightly larger coupling Hex Nut. Here are two sample demos from YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cel7FllhxJM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4huFzeQIgw
You just need to buy separate M4, M6, M8, etc bolts, washers, and Coupling Hex nuts (or the Imperial version of each): the equivalent of buying mandrels, except much less expensive.
nice write up.
I’m using cross-nuts for a roof rack on my truck because it has to be a blind install.
Since it’s a roof rack with weight, I wanted the larger shear/pull out rating.
I have also done many tests on sheet metal of similar thickness.
You state the spin washer helps spinout, which I have also discovered in my tests, however, I found that steel epoxy (jb weld) in tandem with the spinout washer seems to be beneficial.
Question : Am I negating the function of the spin washer by enclosing it in a liquid epoxy on install , i.e. it slips and crushes but maybe not “scoring” the metal surfaces to prevent spinning ? i.e. In my tests am I being fooled to think the spin washer is functioning as it should when, in reality, perhaps it’s only the steel epoxy that is holding the cross nut. Or do you think it is better to use both.
Tip – BTW- I have found that using a torque wrench with the McMaster Carr installer works great to get consistent installs. M6 = 10nm , M8 = 12nm , etc. Start pull with standard wrench/socket to get it buckled initially, then use the torque wrench with socket for final snug up.
Hey!
I haven’t test epoxy + washer, so I can’t comment on that. But from my experience I wouldn’t bother, because the washer helps sufficiently. For my upcoming build I plan on using rivet-nut with no washer. I’ve used them to install the Lagun Table Mount and it worked great.
Wow, thank you for this information. What a gift!
hey! working on my 1.0 build and am using cross nuts like your first build. Do you have any techniques to remove a “bad” cross nut once its been installed?
Hi!
If the thread is damaged, you can try fixing it with a tap (https://amzn.to/3I04UJr).
If it’s spinning, you can try bond it with JB Weld or CA glue.
To remove it, you need to prevent it from spinning (e.g. hold it with vise grip) and drill it out (power drill + drill bit). I don’t have a photo or video sorry… You might find it on YouTube!
This is the best thought out and presented guide I could have hoped to find…incredible. Thank you so much for saving me from wasting hours of my time!
Thank you! Glad we could help 🙂
Thank you for all the help over the years!
You probably already know this, but the first photo you used in the “Understanding Specifications” section showing the digital calipers measuring hole diameter, you’re using the part of the tool that is designed to measure the outside diameter or thickness of something. If measuring the inside diameter, like what we’re doing here, it might be easier to use the other side of the calipers. My guess is that you know this, but maybe makes for a more understandable picture?
Anyway, thanks again. I’m on team Rivet Nut now!
That was staged for the photo, that’s the only way I could snap a picture of the hole AND the reading on the caliper 😉
Appreciate the advice, cheers!
Antoine 🙂
On point #10 How to transfer a hole pattern, you wrote “By placing transfer screws into the threaded inserts and then pushing the panel against them, you can precisely replicate the hole pattern into the panel!”
Instead of using transfer screws I used Play Doh. Place a small, balled piece of Play Doh on the panel over the area you think the hole is going to be. Press the panel against the holes and you have an exact location replica of the hole on the panel. Mark the hole thru the PlayDoh and remove it. Doesnt leave a mark either.
Nice, thanks for the tip! I think I saw your Instagram post about that 🙂
Hello again!
I just noticed that the measurements, sizing tables, and nut finder tool you’ve created have dimensions that are NOT universal across all rivet nut manufacturers. The Bollhoff rivet nut that you reference has drastically different measurements and recommended hole size in their manual (https://www.rivetnutusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/rivnut-catalog-16.pdf). You spec a 9mm hole for M6 and 1/4-20 rivet nuts whereas the Bollhoff actually needs a 10mm (or 25/64″) hole for M6 and 1/4-20.
The rivet nuts that I get through McMaster-Carr are also 10mm (or 25/64″) hole for M6 and 1/4-20 rivet nuts.
This is why I never order fasteners (or anything that requires precise instructions) from Amazon.
I recommend getting fasteners from a reliable source that gives proper dimensions and install instructions. (https://www.mcmaster.com/rivet-nuts/steel-twist-resistant-rivet-nuts/)
Cheers!
The M6 rivetnuts from McMaster (and possibly Bollhoff) won’t fit (they are larger), but the ones from our “Buy Links” will (without having to ream the existing hole, they fit perfectly). Our specification tables are for the rivetnuts/crossnuts we recommend. Cheers
Thanks for the awesome content once again!
As Duane mentioned, the M6 or 1/4-20 rivet nuts do not fit into the factory holes so you’ll need to ream them to spec size with a drill bit (25/64″). I would argue that this is actually beneficial because it guarantees you have the proper hole size AND it clears paint off the inside edge of the hole – both resulting in better mating conditions.
Oddly, in my latest Transit there are two holes in each ceiling rib that were slightly oversized so the M6 rivet nut did fit in perfectly without needing to ream it out… Lo and behold this was the only spinner (rivet nut) I had out of hundreds of rivet nuts throughout my last 3 van builds. This was enough evidence for me to never do that again – I recommend only installing rivet nuts in a hole that has been re-drilled with the spec drill bit size.
The final step to complete this investigation is to repeating this test on a PAINTED panel. Having a layer of paint between the blind fastener and the panel will certainly have an effect, although we can all be confident that a properly installed rivet nut will still be superior to a plusnut.
Hope this helps!
fairisfaircreative.com
Thanks!
Agreed! It’s not shown in the “experiment”, but I validated the results in the van after the fact (installed a few rivetnuts/crossnuts and measured the torque).
The M6 rivetnuts from McMaster (and possibly Bollhoff) won’t fit (they are larger), but the ones from our “Buy Links” will (without having to ream the existing hole, they fit perfectly). Our specification tables are for the rivetnuts/crossnuts we recommend. Cheers 🙂
WOW. You guys don’t do anything that is short of amazing. Thanks again for this effort.
A sheet of acrylic is also a great way of transferring a hole pattern.
1. Clamp to the wall.
2. Use tape edges to mark at least two reference points on the edges and as well as the hole locations.
3. Mark the reference points on the material.
3. Clamp opposite face to the material along one edge aligning the reference points.
4. Site the marks through the acrylic and transfer.
Avant de connaître le truc de la rondelle dentellée, j’ai trouvé un moyen de fixer un écrou étoilé une fois installé et qu’il « tourne dans le beurre », il suffit de percer et fraiser la tête de l’écrou et de visser une petite vis à métal à tête fraisée. Merci pour le topo très complet et détaillé
Very good article, thank you for posting.
You mention that you think rivet nuts could be waterproof with sealant. I am looking to install a DIY roof rack and I have seen many people installing rivet nuts into the pre-existing holes on the roof to anchor the racks feet, unistrut or 80/20 (depending on the roof rack design). I have found two companies that manufacturer waterproof rivet nuts (below) but have been unable to source them as it appears that they are only sold business to business.
https://www.tubtara.com/en/standard-tubtara-blind-rivet-nuts/stainless-steel-304-dpx
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDhRH0yT2UU
Do you know of any similar products available to the general public? I am sure that I could just use a sealant or a ring that is compressed between the rivet nut and the skin of the van but if there is a product that is designed for the job I would rather use that.
I am not aware of such product, sorry.
The pre-existing holes in the roof are threaded already, what is the reason for adding rivet nuts? Maybe you meant on a different van than the Transit?
Happy to see you new install is moving.
I used the Cross Nuts in my build, and was generally happy with them.
But those spinners, sheesh. I used locktight (after they started spinning, not on install), in the later months, and that seemed to work. But there were some spinners that were hopeless, don’t know why. Those I ended up drilling and screwing a small screw into the edge of the nut. What a pain.
Oh, and crosscuts DO wreck the paint on the back side and contact the chassis, the van body; turns out that’s good: that means they are excellent grounding points for the negatives on your electric install if you use the chassis for negative (ground) like FORD does. I found that quite convenient in my install, and it saved me a lot of black wire.
Cheers, Don
Hi
Useful article thanks.
Grahame
Thank you!
Cool article. Wish I had known about rivnuts when I was doing my build. Love your graphic design as well.
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated 🙂
Nice work guys! I appreciate how through you were in your study of these fasteners. This is very good information for the community. You guys Rock!
Thanks!! 🙂
Great stuff! Thanks so much!
Nice update! I recently converted a 2019 Sprinter crew van into a camper van. I used rivnuts exclusively and didn’t have a single spinout. I’ll also note that I found the most common “factory” holes in the Sprinter were just shy of the 29/64″ hole needed for the 1/4-20 rivnuts I was using almost exclusively (I did use a few #8 & 5/16″ rivnuts). I enlarged each hole to the proper 29/64″ using a standard twist drill and a DIY shop vac adapter and coated each hole with a bit of rustolium paint before adding the rivnut. My wife & I are now enjoying the fruits of our labors 🙂
Congrats, happy vanning! Enjoy, antoine
I think you guys would really benefit from a Pneumatic rivet nut gun. The Astro one is $200. You may already have a compressor-and if not, it is a wise investment for a van build (spraying adhesive for upholstered panels, air saw cutting, rivets/riv nuts, blowing out debris, etc). You could get a small (inexpensive) pancake one even.
I have set many riv nuts in past builds with the manual tool, and am absolutely blown away by the consistency and ease provided by the pneumatic gun. I could never go back to the manual tool unless I was somewhere without power (some sort of job site off grid, without access to a compressor).
I have the opportunity to borrow one, I’ll give it a try and report back!!
Harbor freight one was $50 when we bought it and it worked great—we put in a ton for our adventure wagon build.
Excellent analysis! Thank you!
Thanks 🙂