Below is how we installed the tongue and groove ceiling in our Transit campervan conversion.
It’s still a work in progress at this time; we will update as we progress!
Table Of Content
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Installation
First things first, here is the numbering we use for the cross-member frames:
Time
TBD
Cost
TBD
Weight
TBD
Material
ITEM | DESCRIPTION | QTY | BUY |
---|---|---|---|
12mm (1/2″) Baltic Birch | For cross-member frames. We prefer Baltic Birch (or equivalent) for its superior stability and screw grip. | 1 | Buy locally |
M6 x 25mm Flanged Button Head Screw (Stainless Steel) | Two per cross-member frame. | 1 | Amazon |
M8 x 25mm Flanged Button Head Screw (Stainless Steel) | Two per cross-member frame. | 1 | Amazon |
M6 and M8 Rivet Nuts | To attach the cross-member frames to existing holes in the van. | 1 | M6 | M8 |
Polyurethane Wood Finish | To seal the cross-member frames. | 1 | Amazon |
1/8″ Minicel (Low-E would work too) | Thermal break between the metal and the cross-member frames. | VAR | FoamForYou |
5/16″ Knotty Pine Tongue and Groove Planks (3-1/2″ wide x 96″ long) | The ceiling area of our extended Transit is roughly 66 square feet. | 7 | Buy locally (e.g. Rona) |
#6 x 3/4″ Flat Head Wood Screws (Brass) | We use brass simply because it blends well with the pine. | 1 | Amazon |
Resources
1. Cross-Member Frames
We first CNC’d the cross-member frames out of 12mm thick Baltic Birch, per these dimensions:
Cross-members 1, 2, 4, & 5:
Cross-member 3 is wider (towards the front) to allow the 96-inch planks to reach the ceiling foremost point (otherwise, they would come a bit short near the cabin):
We used our Shapeoko to CNC the cross-member frames, because why not, but the frames are actually very easy to make by hand (they’re basically just rectangles). We’d recommend, however, not drilling them initially. Just install transfer screws in the M6 and M8 rivet nuts, then press the cross-member frame against the metal to punch the location of all holes into the cross-member frame. Then you know exactly where to drill!
The cross-members will be subject to condensation and moisture, so sealing them to prevent molds is essential. We also trimmed 1/8″ Minicel for thermal break (Low-E could work too) that we bonded with 3M 90 to the FACE UP of the frame (between the metal and wood):
We then installed M6 and M8 rivet nuts in each cross-member frame as follows:
Always start threading fasteners into rivet nuts by hand. If you feel any resistance, back off, clean the threads of the rivet nut with a tap, then start over. This should prevent any spinning rivet nut!
We then installed all cross-member frames (remember, frame #3 is wider!). It’s easier to start with the M6 screws, then partially install the M8 screws and let the wood relax to prevent cracking it. Come back later to gradually thread them more and add more bending.
Just a close-up to show the bending, the M8 screw, and the Minicel between the metal and the wood:
Keep going for all frames!
And you’re done 🙂
2. Tongue and Groove Planks
Coming soon… ish!
On Second Thought…
This is an exact duplicate of FarOutVan #1 ceiling… so it’s fair to say we’re happy with this method and would do the same if we started over!