Welcome to our Propane System Design Guide! We personally decided to go with propane in our van because propane packs WAY more energy than a battery: for example, our BBQ tank gives us two months of cooking and hot showers before we have to refill it, while a battery would have to be recharged after only a few hours and would require costly upgrades just to make it work… For full time vanlife like we’re doing, it’s a no brainer. In the following guide, we will build our knowledge so we can design and build a safe propane system. Keep reading!
Table Of Content
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.
1- Campervan Propane System In A Nutshell
The Atwood range, hot shower and Propex heater are appliances that run on propane in our van:
1.1- Propane System Diagram
1.2- Items List
| Component | Description | Quantity | Buy Link |
| MAIN | |||
| Propane Tank | See “Propane Tank” section | 1 | Amazon |
| Hose: Acme x 1/4″ Male NPT (1 feet) | Propane tank to regulator | 1 | Amazon |
| Regulator: Two Stage, 11 W.C. | It’s an horizontal regulator, so it should be horizontal! | 1 | Amazon |
| Elbow: 3/8″ Flare Male x 3/8″ MPT | We used an elbow so the regulator fits into the vented locker. | 1 | Amazon |
| Hose: 3/8″ Flare Female (both sides) | Regulator to Bulkhead Union | 1 | Amazon |
| Bulkhead Union Fitting: 3/8″ Flare Male (both sides) | This is to go through the vented locker while keeping a tight seal. | 1 | Amazon |
| Swivel: 3/8″ Female Flare (both sides) | This is to connect the bulkhead fitting to a cross (or a tee). | 1 | Amazon |
| Cross: 3/8″ Male Flare (all sides) | Use this if you have 3 appliances to connect. | As Required | Amazon |
| Tee: 3/8″ Male Flare (all sides) | Use this if you have 2 appliances to connect. | Amazon | |
| None | Use none if you only have 1 appliance to connect. (and delete the Swivel 3/8″ Female Flare as well). | N/A | |
| Solenoid Shut Off Valve 12V | |||
| Solenoid, 12V | To open/close the propane remotely | 1 | Amazon |
| Push-Button Switch | To energize the solenoid | 1 | Amazon |
| Pigtail | To wire the push-button switch | 1 | Amazon |
| 90 Degrees Fitting | So the regulator / solenoid assembly fit in the locker | 1 | Amazon |
| MISC: wire, terminal rings, closed end terminals, quick disconnects, silicone… | |||
| Low Pressure Gauge | |||
| Low Pressure Gauge 15″ WC | Our system nominal pressure is 11″ WC, so we chose a gauge that goes up to 15″ WC. | 1 | Amazon |
| Tee, 1/4″ x 1/4″ x 1/4″ NPT Female | To add a new port for the gauge… | 1 | Amazon |
| 3/8″ Flare Female to 1/4″ MPT | To connect to the 3/8″ flared cross and bulkhead fitting | 2 | Amazon |
| 1 lb Bottle Adapter (High-Pressure) -Optional- | |||
| Tee: 1/4″ FPT x 1/4″ FPT x 1/4″ MPT | This is to split the line coming from the tank into two lines: one going to the regulator (low pressure), one going to the 1 lb bottle adapter (high-pressure). | 1 | Amazon |
| Adapter: 1/4 MPT x 1″-20 Male | 1 | Amazon | |
| Extension Hose: 1″-20 Female to 1″-20 Male | 1 | Amazon | |
| Eccotemp Hot shower (Buy on Amazon) | |||
| Gas Valve: 1/2 NPT to 3/8 Flare Male | This valve connects directly to the Eccotemp. | 1 | Amazon |
| Flexible Copper Tubing: 3/8″ O.D. | Length As Required | Amazon | |
| Flare Nut: 3/8″ O.D. | 1 side connected to the gas valve, 1 side to the cross. | 2 | Amazon |
| Propex HS2000 Heater (dealer locator) | |||
| Flexible Copper Tubing: 1/4″ O.D. | The Propex requires 1/4″ O.D. per manual! | Length As Required | Amazon |
| Flare Nut: 1/4″ O.D. | 1 | Amazon | |
| Reducer: 3/8″ Female Flare to 1/4″ Male Flare | This is to connect the 1/4″ copper tubing the to cross. | 1 | Amazon |
| Note that the Propex HS2000 includes a compression nut to connect the 1/4″ line to it. | |||
| Atwood Range (Buy on Amazon) | |||
| Flexible Copper Tubing: 3/8″ O.D. | Length As Required | Amazon | |
| Flare Nut: 3/8″ O.D. | 4 | Amazon | |
| Gas Valve: 3/8″ Flare Male (both sides) | 1 | Amazon | |
2- The cost of going all electric (no propane)
2.1- Propane Pros & Cons
Working on it. Coming soon!
2.2- All electric VS propane cost comparison
Working on it. Coming soon!
3.1- What size?
Choosing the right propane tank size totally depends on what appliances you run and what autonomy you want (days/months with no refill). As a rough guideline and to help you make a decision, here is our usage living full-time in the van:
- We don’t know the exact consumption of each appliance, but we know that using our Atwood Range every day (oven & stove) and using our Eccotemp shower every other day or so, our 20 pound propane tank last roughly 2 months.
- We don’t use our Propex heater much (we prefer to use our Webasto Air Top 2000), but the consumption is 1 pound of propane every 3 hours (remember it cycles though, it’s not running full-time). Our autonomy definitely shrink a lot if we use the Propex.
3.2- Tank Types
3.2.1- Disposable bottle
The 1 pound disposable bottles are OK for occasional camping trips, but expensive and not environmentally friendly in the long run…
Here’s a tip: Any appliance that normally requires small camping propane bottle (camp stove, Mr Heater Buddy, etc.) can be used with a larger tank (5, 11, 20 pound), thanks to the following adapter. One side connects directly to the propane tank, the other side connects directly to the appliance. No regulator needed. It’s much more economical!
3.2.2- Steel Propane Tank
Also known as “BBQ Tank”… no explanation needed! OK, here’s a picture just in case…
They’re easy to find in 5, 11 or 20 pound (or more). Here are some common specifications:
* Note that tanks are not filled to their max capacity; this is to leave room for vapor expansion. For example, a 20 pound tank will generally be filled to approx 18 pound.
** Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
3.2.3- Aluminum Propane Tank
“BBQ Tanks” are also available in aluminum with the following characteristics:
- Lighter than steel (approximately 3 pounds lighter for 2.6 gallon capacity, 5 pounds lighter for 4.6 gallon capacity)
- Does not rust
- Does not sparks if ruptured
- Does not have to be painted
- More expensive
They’re easy to find in 10 or 20 pound. Here are some common specifications:
* Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
3.2.4- Composite (Fiberglass) Propane Tank
Here’s a fancy option to impress your neighbors:
- Lighter than steel and aluminum
- See-through (no guesswork to know when to refill)
- Does not rust
- DOT approved for US and Canada
- Must be re-certified every 5 years (from the date of manufacture, not from the purchase date)
- Because it’s not common, some people reported that it makes it harder to re-fill or re-certify.
They’re easy to find in 11, 17 or 22 pound. Here are some common specifications:
* Vertical tanks must not be installed horizontally. If the orientation is not correct liquid propane will be collected instead of vapor (LP gas).
3.2.5- Underbody Propane Tank
- Underbody tanks are either built to ASME or DOT standard. Tanks built to ASME specification don’t required to be re-certified, as opposed to DOT that must be re-certified after 10 years initially then every 5 years. Therefore, if we were to install an underbody tank, we would choose a tank built to ASME standard…
- On a side note: portable tanks (such as BBQ tanks) are all built to DOT standard, because the ASME tanks are designed to be stationary and cannot be transported when full.
- Make sure to choose a size that will fit into an underbody cavity. Sorry we can’t help with that because we haven’t installed one ourselves, but here is a legit installation write-up on a Ford Transit: www.fordtransitusaforum.com/170338-post42.html
* ASME tanks don’t require to be re-certified (permanent).
| Description | Capacity (gal) | Diameter (in) | Length (in) | Empty Weight (lb) | Buy Link |
| 7.9 gallon ASME | 7.9 | 10 | 32 | 52 | Campervan-HQ |
| 11.2 gallon ASME | 11.28 | 12 | 32 | 72 | Campervan-HQ |
| 16.3 gallon ASME | 16.36 | 14 | 40 | 81 | Campervan-HQ |
| Description | Diameter (in) | Length (in) | Buy Link |
| 7.9 gallon ASME | 10 | 32 | Campervan-HQ |
| 11.2 gallon ASME | 12 | 32 | Campervan-HQ |
| 16.3 gallon ASME | 14 | 40 | Campervan-HQ |
4- Vented Tank Locker
The pressure inside a tank increases with higher temperature and/or elevation. Too much pressure can also be the result of overfilling the tank. If the pressure becomes too high for the tank’s capacity, excessive pressure will be released through the pressure relief valve. Note that even if the tank’s main valve is completely shut, the pressure relief valve can still release pressure.
Because of the greenhouse effect and because of the change in elevation (when driving), a tank located inside a van is subject to large pressure variation. That’s why we built a vented propane locker to store our propane tank in our van. If the tank was to release pressure, it would be evacuated outside the van!
What about the laws? When transporting a propane tank inside a vehicle, Canadian laws mention that it must be vented (cracked windows or partially opened trunk). We couldn’t find such mention in the USA laws, but there are rumors California laws mention it too (please tell us if you know where to find such a mention). Law or not, for us it just made sense to build a vented propane locker!
A quick word about the locker access door:
- Propane is heavier than air and will “pool” (sink) at the bottom of the locker.
- It is REALLY HARD to make an access door that’s 100% sealed.
Because of A+B, the propane locker should be top loading. It’s an extra safety measure to minimize the risk. Indeed, if the access door leaks, air will leak instead of propane (unless there is a major propane leak from the tank, of course)! We see more and more side-loading propane lockers on YouTube and social networks and that makes us a bit nervous. Even if it is more convenient, a side-loading propane locker is not ABYC compliant. Vans don’t actually need to comply with ABYC, but we see them as having THE highest safety standards and therefore we like to stick to them.
5- Regulator
A tank delivers the propane at high pressure (from 100 up to 315 psi depending on temperature and elevation). However most appliances require low pressure (a.k.a “LP”): 11 Water Column (or 11 W.C.) pressure is the norm in RV systems (11 W.C. = 0.4 PSI). The role of the regulator is to deliver a stable 11 W.C. pressure to the appliances.
5.1- Single Stage Regulator
A single stage regulator reduces the pressure to 11 W.C. in one step. They’re more compact than two stage regulator.
5.2- Two Stage Regulator
A two stage regulator reduces the pressure in two steps. Compared to one stage regulators, they are better at delivering constant 11 W.C. pressure with temperature changes and as the tank pressure declines. A single stage regulator is probably fine in most case, except our Propex HS2000 heater requires a two stage regulator so this is what we went with. Two stage regulators are not significantly more expensive than one stage, so it’s not a bad idea to choose a two stage regulator…
5.3- High Pressure (No Regulator)
Appliances that use small 1 pound bottles have their own built-in regulator. Camping stove, Mr Buddy heater, Mr Buddy BOSS shower, among others work with high pressure. They can be hooked to a full-size propane tank (5#, 11#, 20#, etc.) with an adapter:
6.1- Tubing Material
It is not recommended to use flexible (rubber) hoses as they are not approved for interior permanent installation (they are approved for marine applications, but that’s a different story). Don’t use them outside too, as critters like to chew on them!
Use flexible copper tubing with flared fittings. It’s resistant to vibration, sharp edges and don’t deteriorate with time (as opposed to rubber hose).
6.2- Tubing Size
It’s important to select the correct tubing diameter to prevent pressure drop. The correct diameter depends on:
- Max Pressure Drop Acceptable (1/2 W.C. drop is the norm)
- System Pressure (hint: it’s 11 W.C. for most RV appliances such as the Atwood Range, Propex Heater, Eccotemp Hot Shower, etc)
- Length of tubing (varies according to your installation)
- Capacity (BTU/hours)
Capacity (BTU/hrs) in function of Tubing Length and Outside Diameter for Flexible Copper Tubing at a pressure of 11 W.C:
| Copper Tubing O.D. (in) | Length of tubing between the regulator and the appliance (feet) | ||
| 10 | 20 | 30 | |
| 3/8 | 49,000 BTU/hrs | 34,000 BTU/hrs | 27,000 BTU/hrs |
| 1/2 | 110,000 BTU/hrs | 76,000 BTU/hrs | 61,000 BTU/hrs |
- The Atwood Range is max 32,000 BTU/hrs (all 3 burners and over working simultaneously), so we’re allowed 20 feet of 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
- The Eccotemp shower is rated 37,000 BTU/hrs, so we’re allowed about 15 feet of 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing.
- Bottom word: we will use 3/8″ O.D. copper tubing all over! It should be alright for most van installation…
6.3- Tubing Bending
Bending the tubing by hand is “OK” (but not ideal) for light bends, but it will most likely create “kinks” for anything more than 45 degrees (kinks are bad because it restricts the flow of gas). It can be prevented, you guessed it, by using the proper tool for the job:
7- Leak-Free Connections
7.1- Flared connections
Flared connection is the preferred type and it’s standard in North-America. Flared fittings have a 45 degrees chamfer (male or female) that seal the deal. They do not requires thread sealant or tape.
To make a flared connection with copper tubing:
2- Insert the Flare Nut into the tubing:
Note: Select the appropriate flare nut according to the tubing O.D.; for example use 3/8" O.D. flare nut with 3/8" O.D. copper tubing.
3- Form the flange using a Flaring Tool:
Note: First make sure the cut it deburred; any burrs that become compressed will leak.
4- Voilà!
It should look like this!
7.2- Pipe (NPT) connetions
Some appliances or regulators comes with NPT connection. NPT fittings don’t have a 45 degrees chamfer (see “Not Flared” picture). They require thread sealant (a.k.a. “DOPE”, Buy on Amazon) or yellow tape (Buy on Amazon). Do NOT use white teflon tape! It’s made for water system, so it will leak gas as it’s not thick enough.
7.3- Compression fittings with olive
These are NOT common in North-America and should be avoided! They’re mostly designed for liquid or compressed air (not gas). Note that the Propex HS2000 comes with this type of connection; that’s the only place we have one in our system…
8.1- Manual valve
For safety sake, it is recommended to install a valve (easily accessible) every time a propane line split to connect to an appliance.
8.2- Solenoid valve
A solenoid shut off valve can be added to propane system, near the tank, to easily shut the propane OFF when not using it. The solenoid valve is OFF at all times (“normally closed”), but turns ON (open) when it’s energized with 12V. As soon as the 12V is removed, the valve shuts OFF. When energized (ON), a solenoid draw a current of about 1 amp (depending on brand/model). It’s the main inconvenience of the solenoid valve: you need constant electrical power to get propane. But it’s actually meant to be like that; in case of an accident the electrical power would probably go OFF. It’s a safety feature.
Most solenoid valve are meant to be installed on the low pressure side of the propane system; that is after the regulator. We like the Century Fuel’s AFC-151R solenoid shut off valve because it can take up to 312 PSI, so it can be installed on the high pressure side (before the regulator) as well and its 1/4 MPT port fits directly into the inlet of our propane regulator:
READ THIS: Solenoids needs constant power to remain ON (open) and therefore they get really hot to the touch. They relie on propane flow to cool down, so leaving it ON without using propane will make them even hotter. We get a lot of emails about that… So yeah, it is normal for the solenoid to get very hot!
9- Pressure Gauge
It’s not mandatory by any means, but a pressure gauge installed in the low pressure side (after the regulator) of the system can be a useful thing: you can quickly tell if your regulator is delivering the correct pressure. Indeed, we had a regulator that failed one day (Camco brand) and we spent hours and hours troubleshooting our Propex heater thinking it was faulty… we installed that gauge since then:
Note: Always take a reading when at least one appliance is running (dynamic pressure)! Static pressure (no appliance running) will always reads higher than 11 WC…
10.1- Checking for leaks
Propane manufacturers add a distinctive skunk or rotten egg smell to propane so you are able to detect right away if there is a major leak. That being said, after installing your propane system, you MUST validate that there are no leaks. To do so, pressurize your system (turn all the valves / solenoid ON) and apply soapy water to each fitting; in other words, on every connections in your system. If there is a leak, you will see bubbles forming.
10.2- Gas Detector
Because we turn ON propane only temporarily for short period of time (using our solenoid), we personally don’t have a gas detector. However here’s an option if it makes you feel better:
- This is to detect un-burned gas/propane; in other words, to detect leaks in your system.
- Mount it near the floor (because gas/propane is heavier than air, it will collect near the floor).
10.3- Carbon monoxide alarm
We initially had a carbon monoxide alarm without digital reading, so nothing was telling us that it actually worked… We upgraded for this one for peace of mind:
- This is to detect carbon monoxide (CO), resulting from propane combustion.
- Mount it near the ceiling or floor (because carbon monoxide is almost the same density as air, it will disperse evenly throughout the air in a room.)
10.4- Smoke Detector
The first Alert P1010 smoke detector is tiny and blend perfectly with the decor in our van:
- Mount it near the ceiling.
11- Tank Level Monitoring
11.1- Wireless sensor for smartphone
Our propane tank being located into the locker, it’s not exactly convenient to check the propane level. Fortunately we stumble upon the Mopeka TankCheck Sensor (Buy on Amazon): this neat device allows to monitor the level of propane from our smartphone. Nice!
11.2- Tank monitoring for Simarine Pico
We personally use the Simarine Pico to monitor the battery bank (%, solar input, etc), tank level (fresh, grey, Nature’s Head) & temperatures (in, out, fridge, battery, etc). It is possible to add propane tank level with the appropriate sensors.
Sensor for vertical tank
Vertical tanks don't have provision to add a sensor, but this sensor attaches magnetically to the bottom of a steel tank and makes it possible to read the level of the tank. Note that you must purchase the sensor AND the pre-processor:
Sensor for underbody tank
The ASME Manchester tanks that we recommend have provision for a level sensor. The sensor output is resistance (not voltage), which can be read by a Simarine module:
12.1- Vented Propane Locker Build
We mentioned earlier that propane might escape from the propane tank from the safety relief valve. This propane has to go somewhere: outside the van sounds about right. To achieve that, we built a sealed box that is vented through the floor with the lid on top (propane is heavier than air). We did not come up with this, this is what marine regulation asks for (some info here).
A quick word about the locker access door:
- Propane is heavier than air and will “pool” (sink) at the bottom of the locker.
- It is REALLY HARD to make an access door that’s 100% sealed.
Because of A+B, the propane locker should be top loading. It’s an extra safety measure to minimize the risk. Indeed, if the access door leaks, air will leak instead of propane (unless there is a major propane leak from the tank, of course)! We see more and more side-loading propane lockers on YouTube and social networks and that makes us a bit nervous. Even if it is more convenient, a side-loading propane locker is not ABYC compliant. Vans don’t actually need to comply with ABYC, but we see them as having THE highest safety standards and therefore we like to stick to them.
First of all, here are the dimensions for a few common propane tanks:
Propane Tank Dimensions
| DESCRIPTION | SIZE | DIAMETER | HEIGHT |
| WORTHINGTON TANK | |||
| Steel, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.25in | 17.75in |
| Aluminum, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.25in | 20.6in |
| MANCHESTER TANK | |||
| Steel, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.16in | 17.56in |
| Aluminum, Vertical | 20 lbs | 12.28in | 20.7in |
And here are the interior dimensions of our propane locker:
We won’t go into the box fabrication details, but let’s just say that the cuts should be perfectly straight to have a good seal! All the edges of the box are glued together; this should seal the deal, but just to make sure, we also applied silicone on all edges inside the box:
We first checked that the propane locker would fit. To clear the aluminum nose stair, we raised the locker with 1/8″ thick MLV leftover we had handy:
We now have to make a hole in the floor. We want that hole to be sealed; if we ever have a water spill we don’t want water to ingress in between the layers of our floor.
We drilled it using a 1″-5/8 diameter hole saw (Buy on Amazon):
As usual, we must now sand the bare metal edges and apply primer + paint + clearcoat; this is to prevent rust (we went to an auto parts shop and they prepared paint that matches the color of our van). No picture sorry, so here is a dancing banana instead:
We then inserted a 1″ (inside diameter) PVC pipe in the hole:
And we applied Silicone II (Buy on Amazon) around the pipe inside and outside the van to ensure that no water can ingress in between the floor layers (do not use Silicone I on metal because it’s acidic and might promote rust, while Silicone II on the other hand is neutral and safe for metal)!
Marine regulations ask for a minimum of ¾” (inside diameter) pipe to ensure a proper venting, so we will use that. The ¾” PVC pipe fit very tightly into the locker; we had to use a hammer to put it in place so it’s not moving from there.
Inside the locker, the ¾” PVC pipe protrude from above the surface (about ¼”) and Silicone was applied to ensure a proper sealing:
Here is the oddly satisfying part: the ¾” PVC Pipe (fixed to the locker) fit nicely inside the 1″ PVC pipe (fixed to the floor), so the propane locker can be removed / re-installed as needed!
We added a ¾” PVC elbow to prevent crap from entering the locker. It is simply press-fitted into the ¾” PVC pipe:
We’re not done with that box yet. We now have to add the bulkhead union fitting. As extra safety, the fitting should be installed near the TOP of the locker! Propane is heavier than air and will “sink” at the bottom…
Oups… we installed the fitting towards the center and it’s in the way when we remove the tank! We relocated the bulkhead fitting towards the outside shortly after (not shown on the picture).
A rubber washer was installed outside & inside to ensure a good seal:
A self-adhesive neoprene seal (Buy on Amazon) was added on the cover to ensure sealing:
And finally, we added latches (Buy on Amazon) so the cover can be easily taken off:
Be aware that screwing parallel through the plywood’s layers is not ideal (the layers could separate under tension); but with the adjustable latches, we can fine-tune the tension to the minimum required. We also pre-drilled the screw holes to minimize the tension in the hole.
This is the assembly that’s inside the propane locker:
12.2- Solenoid Valve Installation
There are some propane and electrical work to do. It’s quite simple, let’s do it!
Propane.
The solenoid is installed directly into the regulator outlet; we installed a 90° fitting so our assembly fits into the propane locker. (Don’t forget to use yellow tape on the threads!)
Electrical.
We went for a push-button that illuminate when ON; this way, we can’t forget to turn the propane OFF when we’re not using it:
We located the push-button switch at a visible place and where it’s easy to turn it ON:
This is how to wire the switch in a way that the LED illuminate only when it’s ON:
We wish we could find a nice bulkhead fitting to go through the 1/2″ plywood, but we couldn’t so we just routed the wire and added silicone to seal it…
We used quick-disconnects (Buy on Amazon) for when we need to refill the tank:
When the propane is OPEN, it draws 1.2A (solenoid and switch’s LED combined). For cooking or showering, the electrical power consumption is pretty negligible (around 1-2 Ah per day we’re guessing). When using the Propex heater, it’s a different story: if one would run the Propex all day, it would draw 29Ah daily (1.2A x 24h). That’s not negligible anymore, especially in winter when power is more scarce. In our case, we don’t use the Propex much as it is our backup plan (we prefer to use the gasoline Webasto).
13- On Second Thought...
- Overall: The design we came up with works as intended, awesome!
- Tank size: Our 20lb tank last 2 months on average (without using the Propex), that’s plenty!
- Regulator: We went through 2 Camco regulators and after some research, others are having the same issue. This thing doesn’t last more than a year… So we switched to the Marshall regulator (amzn.to/2U2btBK) and it’s all good now 🙂
- That’s it for now.
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about us
Nice To Meet You.
Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 
In 2017 we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers and moved into our self built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!
Hi Isabelle and Antoine,
Thanks for the detailed and beautifully presented write up. We have just bought a Vanagon and the propane system (whilst much simpler than yours) needs some love. You have collected a bunch of useful information here that I could not find elsewhere. Thanks for sharing. Much appreciated.
Neil
Currently going through my design process and stuck on electrical vs gas. I hate the idea of having a huge propane tank in my van, for safety, but understand it has it’s pros. At the top it says you’re still working on that section. Would love to hear your two cents.
Thank you for that beautiful web site! When the section about propane vs all electric section will be up. I want to build in december so i have to decide what kind of power system I want ! 🙂 Have a nice day !
Using the same compressible rubber gasket encased in a plastic nut – the same ones that are used in the plastic RV roof flanges That you can run cables through – are really good solution to running your solenoid wire out from the box!
National Fire Protection Association has it covered on most safety related items on a RV Especially Propane tanks
https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=1192
Thank you for the useful propane system guide.
One minor detail: at https://faroutride.com/propane-system/ item 10.2- GAS DETECTOR it reads: “Mount it near the floor (because gas/propane is lighter than air, it will collect near the floor)”, but it should say “heavier than air” (that is the reason why gas/propane acumulates near the floor).
Best regards,
A/P Daniel F. Larrosa
Montevideo – Uruguay
Indeed…
Fixed. Thanks for the heads up! 🙂
Did you consider a solenoid switch with some sort of auto shut-off after a delay? I am sure I’d forget to turn the propane switch off at some point and aside from being less safe it would put extra load on the battery. I think it might be a good idea but can’t find any products that seem to do just this. A mechanical knob switch like some people have for bathroom fans might work but I like the rocker switch and light, and am also thinking there might be a reason this is not done.
Hi
I am building out a 2019 Ford Transit just like your unit. I have used your electrical diagram extensively as well as the propane diagram. I paid for both and have bought everything through the Amazon links. Thanks so much. You are a great resource. Did you use a 120 volt fuse block to distribute your power from the inverter to your receptacles/loads? If so can you give me a link? I have a 2200 watt inverter that powers a 1800 watt induction cooktop and a couple receptacles for the laptop and misc. small appliances? Thanks so much Tim
We only installed one 120V outlet, so we didn’t use a distribution panel; we kept things simple:
We bought an heavy-duty extension cord (such as https://amzn.to/2T86Bgf) and plugged it into the inverter outlet. Then we cut the other end of the extension cord and connected it to a 120V outlet (https://amzn.to/2XpFgoe). We didn’t add a fuse/breaker, as we rely on the one built-in inside the inverter. That’s it! If you do this, just make sure to choose an extension cable and an outlet that are rated for higher current than your inverter max current (10A vs 15A vs 20A, etc).
Have a good day!
Hey! Thanks again!..Wondering how you lined up the PVC pipe from the locker to the PVC pipe thru the floor? Dont want to wing it when cutting thru the floor haha
Ive followed your guide pretty much to the tee, other then some elbows.. ive bought the recommended solonoid, I bought the recommended 2 stage regulator, and I bought the recommended pressure gauge. I then cross branch off to an oven, a Girard water heater and a suburban furnace. I completed all of my connections and was in the stage of leak testing the system and noticed my pressure gauge was reading 15+” so I’m wondering how to test if my regulator is supplying too much propane, or if my gauge is mis reading. What do you suggest my next move is?
Is your ready static? It is normal to read 15+ when you’re not using any appliance. So make sure to run at least run something (like the furnace) and THEN take your reading.
Let me know,
antoine
I tried running my stove because it has an additional little regulator in it and I left like that would combat against too much pressure. The pressure gauge went from 1/4inch from the pin (past 15″) and when I opened up a burner and lit it, there was only a second of dropped pressure (still over 15″) but then went right back up to well over 15″. I tried this with one, then two, then all three burners and the same thing happened. I don’t want to test it on the furnace because it says on it 10WC and on my water heater it says 14WC MAX. Is there any potential that these appliances could be damaged but having this amount of pressure? Any suggestions? Is it the regulator? I bought the one you suggest in your blog post but other then it stating it’s “ideally suited for high demand RV, outdoor appliances, cabins, seasonal homes, gas fire places, water heaters, ranges or other moderate to low demand domestic home installations.” I don’t see it stating the WCs anywhere. What do you think?
This is the same model we personally use and we get around 11 WC. It is factory set to 11 W.C. but there could be some tolerance.
According to https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Two-Stage-End-Vent-Propane-Regulator-p/06-0449.htm:
“Output pressure is 11″ WC, adjustable from approx 9-13”
Could be the regulator, could be the pressure gauge… The only way to tell is to have them tested at a propane store, I’m thinking. Or get new ones from Amazon and have these one refunded…
Good luck!
have you heard of using a new gas flex connection kit for connect to propane tanks? I wondered if this was just as quality of an option as doing copper tubing.
Not heard of, sorry!
Antoine,
Thanks for your diagrams of which I have purchased three. I purchased a Propex HS 2211 and am studying your diagram as I prepare to install it. The HS 2211 (like the HS 2000) specifies a 5/16″ pipe but allows you to use 1/4″ “with an adaptor”. I am having troubling finding a 3/8″ to 5/16″ reducer so I will use a 1/4″ pipe as you did. Can you tell me what adaptor you had to use to connect the 1/4″ pipe into the Propex heater?
If you buy the Propex from a North-American supplier, the install kit should come with the adapter.
Thank you. I found the adapter.
Hi Antoine,
As always, I love your detailed post! I have a question…
I’m using a Camp Chef camping stove rated at max 40,000 BTU/hr. But it normally runs off of 1lb cylinders. I see you have an adapter hose that goes straight to the propane box, but that wouldn’t work in my setup because the propane is going to be stored too far away (I have a bus conversion, not a van conversion). Am I able to run high pressure propane through copper tubing to add a connection closer to my stove that I can connect to? And if so, does the formula for calculating what size tubing change if I’m using high pressure? If I can’t run high pressure through copper tubing, is there a safe way to get the propane to my stove, or do I need to rework my entire plan to get the propane locker closer to the stove? Also, why is a rubber tube acceptable when using an adapter, but not for everything else?
Thanks!
A tank normally contain about 145 PSI, but can go as high as 315 PSI if left in the sun (pressure increases with heat). On the other hand, copper tubing has working pressure at around 600/900 PSI, so you can use it for high pressure application. See copper tubing specifications here: https://www.lp-gasequipment.com/docs/Copper_Tubing_Ratings.pdf
I wouldn’t worry about pressure drop, as the built-in regulator in your stove will deliver the correct pressure.
Cheers
Hi Guys,
I am a little curious why you do not include or have a propane alarm. It’s pretty standard on RV insulations, and I don’t think it uses too much power, less than 100 mA or something like that. Would have warned you of your propane incident, where the knob was bumped.
Or is it in some other category and I just missed it!
You have power to that side one the van, you could just use the live lead for the propane solenoid. Actually, you could even control it with that switch, as the propane is unlikely to alarm when the tank is shut off.
The other thing, did you mention how you did your copper tubing bends? I am filling mine with salt…
Cheers,
Don
We don’t have an alarm, since we turn off the tank with the solenoid when we don’t need propane.
We bent the copper by hand… not ideal, but it works for mellow bends. I think next time we would get this tool: https://amzn.to/35zUFph
Addendum to previous post: If you are using the cool Ulincos switch that Antoine suggested, you need a larger amp bulb, like an old incandescent brake light or rear light bulb, which draw about 2 amps at a full 12V I think. The small amp bulbs won’t allow enuf current to activate the blue light in the Ulincos switch. (but if you wish to save your battery…)
The voltage drop over the brake light (in series with the solenoid) is about 2.5 V, so the real amps in this case is less than 0.5 A. And the voltage across the solenoid is about 9 or 10 volts, which is why it doesnt heat up.
Hey Don, do you have any advice for how to get one of these bulbs mounted and connected to the circuit? Are there some out there with spade connectors? Or do you have a stand-alone socket for one of these bulbs that can then be wired in? Thanks!
I found a single bulb holder for a normal old fashion 12V rear brake light.
Alas, I have not really been happy with any solution for covering bulb. It’s getting hard to find something what with LED everything taking over. Right now, the bulb sets in the little hole at the bottom of the back door frame, not really in the way of anything.
For all who worry about the solenoid getting warm or hot: put a 12 V incandescent light in series (not parallel!) with the solenoid, a little dash light is best. Incandescent lights have almost no resistance when cool, so when you flip on the solenoid, you have full voltage to pull the solenoid switch open. Then, when the light gets hot, the light becomes a resistor and the voltage to the solenoid is dropped; that’s okay, it doesn’t need full voltage to remain open. And your solenoid will stay cool as a cucumber.
In terms of power use, I think the light/solenoid uses less power than running the solenoid by itself. (Based on first principles; I haven’t actually checked.)
I put my light outside the locker at the back of the van so when I want to play with the propane, I can see if the switch is on or off.
Enjoy!
Thanks so much for this resource. But, I think it’s worth pointing out that the ABYC rules suggest the splits and pressure gauge should all be in the locker, not in the living space. One should have a single uninterrupted line from the locker to each appliance. http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Safe%20Boat%20propane%20Installation.htm. They also suggest the pressure gauge, for performing a leak test, should go upstream of the regulator.
Oops — just realized my comment should have been directed towards Hayden, not Richard!
To respond to Richard….
I found a really nice bulkhead fitting on Amazon that allows you to pass a hose through it: Trident Marine 1438-8439 L.P. Gas Straight Thru Fitting, 1/2″
Also, a question: I am routing my Propex heater duct through the kitchen cabinet, right alongside of my 10 gal plastic fresh water tank. Form your experience, does the duct get hot enough to warm up that cabinet enough to prevent my water from freezing? If not, what are you guys using to keep water from freezing?
Thanks again for all you’ve shared with everyone!
The duct get quite hot; so it should help.
In our case, we live full time in the van so we never let the temperature go below freezing!
Hi A,
I haven’t checked through the comments carefully, but I am pretty sure you used a 1 1/4″ pipe (ID) in the floor not a 1″. You haf to hammer a 3/4″ pipe into a 1″ and the 1″ pipe sometimes split. In any case, it does not go in easily. Furthermore, a 1″ pipe would fall right out of a 1 5/8″ hole, but you said you had to force it a little. A 1 1/4″ pipe has an OD of 1.66″, and that would sort of fit. You should measure it if it’s not too wet.
-d
PS, liked your new van drawings!