Induction cooking is getting quite popular among the Vanlife community. An induction cooktop is more energy efficient than a traditional electric cooktop and it opens the door for "all-electric" van conversion, as propane is a source of concerns for some. That being said, induction cooking still requires a lot of energy and therefore has a significant impact on the cost of the electrical system and on autonomy. After reading this article you should understand the pros and cons of induction cooking VS propane, and make the right choice according to your needs. Keep reading!
Table Of Content
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.
1- Induction Cooktop In A Nutshell
1.1- How induction cooking works
With induction cooking, heat is generated by the cookware; there is no heat coming from the surface of the induction cooktop itself. It means that a cooktop surface is cold to the touch, so it’s perfectly safe to touch it or to drop a cloth on it (that being said, the surface will get hot when cooking because of heat transfer from the cookware to the surface of the induction cooktop).
Induction cooking uses induction heat transfer to heat cookware, while gas or “normal” electrical element uses conduction heat transfer. The induction plate generates a magnetic field, which creates an eddy current in the ferrous cookware; the cookware provides resistance to that eddy current and as a result heat is generated.
It is very important to note that not all cookware is compatible with induction cooking: the cookware must be made out of ferrous material. Not sure if your cookware is compatible? Just try to stick a magnet to the bottom: if there is a strong pull, you’re in business! A soft pull might work, but not great. No pull will definitely not generate any heat.
Compatible Cookware
- Cast Iron
- Enameled Cast Iron
- Stainless Steel (not all types)
Cookware with uneven (not flat) bottom surface might not work properly.
Non-Compatible Cookware
- Aluminum
- All Copper
- Glass
But these materials will work if there is a magnetic layer at the bottom!
One of the main selling point for vanlifers is that induction cooking is more energy efficient than traditional electrical cooktop. Indeed, heat is transferred directly to cookware, and as a result food heats up and water boils about 50% faster than electrical or gas. This is great news, as energy is not unlimited in a van! That being said, induction cooking still requires a great deal of energy… so you’ll most likely have to upgrade your electrical system components and battery bank to make it work, and it comes at a financial and autonomy cost. Power and electrical requirements is covered in SECTION 2 below; keep reading to find out what you’ll need!
1.2- What model to buy for Vanlife
To prevent overworking the inverter (and possibly preventing tripping the fuse in some situations), we want an induction cooktop with variable power. That means if we set the cooktop to medium (50%), we want the induction cooktop to run continuously at 50% of its power capacity (so 900 watts for a 1800 watts cooktop). A cooktop that runs full power (1800w) for 50% of the time is not really what we’re looking for here.
We also want its max power not so high so that it works with a 2000W inverter. (that being said we recommend a 3000W inverter, but that’s the topic of SECTION 2 below!)
Duxtop 1800W Induction Cooktop (Single)
| POWER | WATTS |
| 0.5 | 100 |
| 1 | 180 |
| 1.5 | 260 |
| 2 | 340 |
| 2.5 | 420 |
| 3 | 500 |
| 3.5 | 580 |
| 4 | 660 |
| Â 4.5 | Â 740 |
| Â 5 | Â 820 |
| POWER | WATTS |
| Â 5.5 | Â 900 |
| Â 6 | Â 1000 |
| Â 6.5 | Â 1100 |
| Â 7 | Â 1200 |
| Â 7.5 | Â 1300 |
| Â 8 | Â 1400 |
| Â 8.5 | Â 1500 |
| Â 9 | Â 1600 |
| Â 9.5 | Â 1700 |
| Â 10 | Â 1800 |
- 1800 watts (variable)
- Dimensions: 11.4" x 14" x 2.5"
- 4.5 stars rating (over 2000 reviews on Amazon)
Duxtop 1800W Induction Cooktop (Double)
- 1800 watts (variable) TOTAL (shared between the 2 burners)
- Dimensions: 23.9" x 14.2" x 2.5"
- 4.5 stars rating (over 2000 reviews on Amazon)
Magma Induction Cookware designed for RV & Boat
- 10 piece set, stainless steel, triple clad
- Nests and stores in less than 1/2 ft³
- Oven safe up to 500F (except removable handles)
2- Power Requirements
2.1- Inverter Size
A van electrical system is typically 12V DC, so an inverter is required to convert the power to 120V AC. You should choose a power inverter capable of delivering 2000W continuously, at the very least. Even so, a 2000W inverter might occasionally trip when using the induction cooktop at max power because:
- An inverter sold as “2000W” might actually be able to handle up to 2000W surge for a very short duration, but not continuously. So make sure to read the specification sheet of the inverter!
- Using other 120V devices simultaneously adds up the power requirement! For example, using an induction cooktop (1800W), a blender (350W) and a laptop (45W) at the same time would require over 2195W of power. Make sure to keep a buffer, because it will be irritating to trip the inverter constantly.
So even if a 2000W power inverter sounds like more than enough, it’s not really, and we’d recommend going for a 3000W inverter.
2000W Inverter
- OK, but not ideal
- Might sometimes trip at the highest settings (~1800W)
- It leaves no buffer to run other 120V devices at the same time.
3000W Inverter
- Recommended
- Robust solution to make sure it works as it should!
2.2- Battery Bank Capacity
Sizing the battery bank adequately has a direct impact on autonomy, that’s pretty obvious for most people. But did you know that the maximum current that a battery bank can deliver depends on its size (and type)?
Autonomy
We met several full-time Vanlifers with profesionally-built vans that gave up on using their induction cooktop and are using a gas camping stove instead, because their battery bank wasn’t sized properly. Induction cooking is trendy and pro-builders want to seduce their customers with it, but don’t make the same mistake of undersizing your battery as a cost-saving measure… especially if you plan on living full time in the van.Â
Maximum Current
A power inverter draw a huge amount of current, and the battery bank must be able to deliver it. For example, a single 100Ah Lithium battery cannot deliver more than 100A. It means a 100Ah battery bank (one battery) can support a 1000W inverter and no more. A 200Ah battery bank (2 batteries) can support a 2000W inverter and no more, and so on. But for a robust system, a 2000W inverter should be paired with at least 3 x 100Ah Lithium batteries, and a 3000W inverter should be paired with at least 4 x 100Ah Lithium batteries. That’s to ensure the inverter AND other 12V devices can be powered simultaneously (which is very most likely the case).
2.3- Wiring Diagram & Items List
At this point we understand that sizing the power inverter AND the battery bank is critical to ensure the electrical system works as it should. But there’s actually more: solar, alternator charger, shore charger, fuses, breakers, wires must all be sized properly as well… And because everyone has different needs, no one has exactly the same system. So how do we do it? That’s a problem we solved with our unique tools: a van electrical calculator and a customizable wiring diagram. It doesn’t get any easier than this!
3- Induction VS Propane
3.1- Cost Comparison
We see many people trying to avoid propane these day and go for an “all-electric” build, so it would be interesting to compare the cost of each. For this exercice, we will assume that a “Standard” electrical system (per faroutride.com/wiring-diagram) is sufficient when propane is used:
Electrical / Propane Hybrid Cost
Standard Electrical System
1000W inverter, 2 lithium batteries
$4,870
Propane System
$400
Total: $5,270
All-Electric Cost
High-Power Electrical System
3000W inverter, 4 lithium batteries
$8,575
Propane System
$0
Total: $8,575
The prices above exclude the appliances cost (stovetop, etc). Yes, it’s possible to build a similar system for cheaper. But cutting down on cost usually means going for cheaper and unbranded components, which means gambling on quality and safety. Our goal here is to build a reliable, safe and performant electrical system; so we invest in quality components.
Cutting down on cost
Shortly after publishing this article, we got a few reactions and questions about our cost comparison which seems on the high-side: Would it be OK to go for a 2000W inverter, 200Ah Lithium battery bank, and only use the induction cooktop at lower settings?
Yes, it could work. But in our opinion, any design that requires the user to “be careful” in order to prevent failure is a poor design. You’re building a van for yourself right now, but remember that eventually all the vans end up on the used market… You have to build your van with the next owner in mind as well (for safety and re-sale value)!
As an analogy, you could design and build a floor in your van that’s not waterproof (on the edges or whatever) and “be careful” not to spill any water. Reality check: water spills WILL happen eventually. It’s not an “IF”, it’s a “WHEN”. So you’re better take the extra efforts to build a waterproof floor…
That’s a philosophy that we applied through our entire build and we’re proud of it. We feel good about it, and we can’t recommend it enough; it is worth the extra time, money and effort! 🙂
3.2- Autonomy
As we mentioned in the previous section, we met several vanlifers that were let down by the autonomy of their induction cooktop. Professional builders (and amateurs) often cut back on batteries to reduce the cost, only to find out later that their autonomy isn’t great. Reality check: sun is not always shining, so size your system to get enough autonomy without solar!Â
We personally went with a propane system (faroutride.com/propane-system) in our van. That’s because we live full time in our van and autonomy is critical for us. We use the van for skiing during winter (faroutride.com/winter-vanlife) and solar input is neglectable during that time. Propane is an extremely dense source of energy: we only need to refill our 20lbs tank every two months when using our Atwood Range (faroutride.com/wedgewood-vision-range-review) and our hot shower (faroutride.com/exterior-shower) regularly. One refill cost between $12-$20 USD.Â
Electrical
- A few days depending on solar, driving habits, battery bank and appliances.
Propane
- A few weeks / months depending on the tank size and appliances.
No sun, no shore power, no driving any time soon to recharge the batteries... we stay here as long as the snow is good 🙂 Autonomy is the key for a good adventure!
3.3- Safety
For most people, propane = danger. In our opinion, there is a (manageable) risk in both propane and electrical. Indeed, keep in mind that a 3000W inverter can draw a tremendous amount of current (around 350 amps, that’s huge) and that’s a potential risk for an electrical fire if a connection gets loose over time (due to vibration). So whether you work with propane or electrical: be humble, educate yourself, use quality components, quality tools, appropriate techniques and ask for professional help as required.
Electrical
- Only use quality components (connector, wire, fuse, etc).
- Work with the right tools.
- Check for loose connections regularly.
Propane
- Test your system for leaks after installation.
- Use a solenoid valve to remotely shut off your tank when not used.
- Install a gas and carbon monoxide alarm.
4- Conclusion
An induction cooktop can be a great addition to a van, as long as the electrical is planned and sized accordingly. Designing and building an electrical system is not a simple task, so we really hope that the tools we have at your disposition are helping!
- That's it folks, hope that helps! -
STAY IN TOUCH!
Join 30,000+ followers via Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, Pinterest, e-mail or Patreon:
about us
Nice To Meet You.
Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 
 In 2017 we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers and moved into our self built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!
DISCLOSURE:
This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant, we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.
Buying through our product links is the best way to say thanks if we were of any help for your conversion! Thanks for supporting us and for keeping this website alive 🙂
Alternatively, you can visit our Say Thanks! page.
Okay we just purchased an older Chinook van and not sure about the batteries etc. we would like to use a double burner induction cooktop and we probably will always be on 30 amp power. Not knowing about electricity or batteries, might we be okay as long as we are plugged in at a park? Thanks
Hi,
I was looking for information on surge current and induction. I know that the surge of a microwave is higher than a motor of the same running amperage but I haven’t seen any info on an induction cooktop.
Thanks,
I know others have left similar comments, but after 2 weeks of obsessing on the web about what inverter to install, I could use some validation or direction.
We have 2 6v 221ah AGM batteries, run in series (12v total, still 221ah). We want to install an inverter, to run a induction cooktop at the least, and maybe an electric kettle. I have been looking at the Giandel 2200W inverter but have been scared away by potential surge power requirements pushing the required inverter watts to 4000W. Given the current 221ah setup, do you feel we could use a single induction stove (with nothing else plugged in) on a 2200W inverter? The kettle (1100W)? Would appreciate any comments. Thanks!
AGM batteries are able to deliver high current rate, so that shouldn’t be an issue. But depending on your electrical demand (stove, kettle, and all the other loads), the limiting factor might be the autonomy. You could use our calculator to get an idea: https://faroutride.com/van-build/tools/van-electrical-calculator/
Good luck,
antoine
Regarding the comment “A 200Ah battery bank (2 batteries) can support a 2000W inverter and no more” – would a 2200W inverter really be too much for a 200Ah battery bank? Or is 2200W close enough and you’re really are saying 200Ah won’t support a 3000W inverter? I’d also be curious to see how that math works.
I was planning on ordering the Giandel 2200W inverter and only getting 2 x 100Ah lithium batteries to start, but am now wondering if I need a third battery to support that inverter. Thanks!
You can install a 2200W inverter with two batteries, it’ll be OK as long as you don’t use it at full capacity (e.g. 2000W or less). If you use it a full capacity (more than 2000W), there’s a chance the batteries BMS shuts down temporarily.
antoine
We use our single induction burner with our 2000W inverter. It works great and we love it.
Yes, I can’t run another high draw appliance at the same time, but I’m ok with that. Pretty much the only time I run our induction on high is when we boil water. I made chili and cornbread. I baked the cornbread in the toaster oven and then unplugged and then while it cooled I made the chili on the cooktop.
I like having no naked flames inside the van and none of the copious amounts of water vapor that propane gives off. I never have to refill a propane tank or worry that it isn’t venting correctly.
Did you include the cost of propane and the cost of going to get the propane?
Nice, glad it’s working well for you 🙂
Didn’t include the cost I think. But we fill our tank (~$12-$13 US) once every two months, it isn’t much.
I own the pictured duxtop induction burner and have used it on the road for probably 1.5 months total. I absolutely love it! It runs off a cotek sp 2000 watt inverter and a 180ah Calb lithium battery bank. I have had absolutely no problems with this setup. Use falls well within the stated specs for both my battery and my inverter. I believe you overstate the cost and potential pitfalls of going down this route. Propane has advantages for sure, but the all electric route isn’t so hard to pull off.
I would think other considerations are that you have only one burner and there’s no oven. Sounds like going backpacking.
Also, it’s not really eco-friendly as it would be hard to solar charge a big enuf battery to power that thing. So you need to use your carbon powered engine to charge the battery.
Propane sounds better and better! (And BTU/CO2-wise, a little better than gasoline, although when you figure in the losses using an IC engine to power a generator to charge a battery, bet that gasoline looses big time.)
-d
Great article, thanks! Wrt using a solenoid for the propane system, is this primarily a convenience item or a safety item? I’m thinking I wouldn’t want a solenoid, because it mixes electrical into a box of flammable liquid/gas; it draws a bit of power; and I don’t mind lifting the lid of the propane box to turn the handle. Should I revise my thinking? Thanks.
We only turn the propane ON when using it, otherwise it’s closed at all time for safety reasons. If we had to manually close the valve in the box, we wouldn’t do it; it would be too annoying to do it each time.
In fact, we didn’t have the solenoid at first and the propane was always ON. One day, we went grocery shopping and we accidentally turned the stove ON. Fortunately we came back a second after because we forgot something in the van and we realized the stove was ON (we could smell it). Shortly after we added the solenoid…
I see, thanks. I had in mind just leaving the propane on when we are parked. But that’s not how I use my BBQ at home; I switch the propane off as soon as I’m done cooking. So maybe I need to rethink!
Thanks for posting this article Antoine and Isabelle, clears up many questions I had myself about induction cooking! I was already leaning to propane and this just clarifies that decision!