Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation


Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation

Our DIY camper van conversion will be used as a winter splitboarding basecamp, so climate control is primordial. The thinsulate thermal insulation, the insulated window covers, the Webasto AirTop 2000 STC air heater and the Maxxair Fan are other key elements to make our campervan conversion comfortable during winter.

Choosing which type of insulation to use was one of the toughest decision; there is no perfect solution, therefore we went with the solution that was the best compromise for us.

The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) installation was performed progressively during the length of the conversion process, as we were installing the wall and ceiling. Why? Because if we covered the walls and ceiling too soon, we would loose the location of the existing holes for Cross Nut installation.


What’s the point of the Low-E Insulation (EZ-Cool)?

We chose Thinsulate (check it on Amazon) as our “main” thermal and noise insulation. To be effective, Thinsulate requires to be fully expanded: that’s almost 2 inches thick for SM600L Thinsulate. There are locations where we just don’t have that space to install Thinsulate (we rather keep that space as living area), so we installed Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool).

Is it redundant to install Thinsulate AND Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool)? NO! Metal is an excellent thermal conductor, therefore leaving some metal exposed is really bad for thermal loss. We experienced it during our conversion: while we were in the Chic-Chocs at -15F, the Thinsulate surfaces were warm to the touch as opposed to the bare metal surfaces that were freezing cold. We lost a lot of heat there. That was enough to convince us.

Why did we install Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) over the Thinsulate at some locations and some other not? The Low-E insulation (EZ-Cool) acts as a vapor barrier. We did not want to sandwich the Thinsulate between the van metal and the Low-E (EZ-Cool), to let it “breath”. We believe moisture will eventually get to Thinsulate (vapor barrier or not) so we covered about 75% of the Thinsulate surface. This is a compromise: this way we get some radiant shield properties of the Low-E (EZ-Cool) and we let breath our Thinsulate. You might be interested in this article:




Really, it’s hard to tell because the Low-E (EZ-Cool) was installed as the conversion progressed. It’s fairly easy and fast to install, so let’s say 4 to 8 hours total.



200$ USD, more or less


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If you choose to only install the Low-E (EZ-Cool) on the remaining exposed metal (following the Thinsulate installation), 40 linear feet should be about right. If you choose to cover the remaining exposed metal AND to install on top of the Thinsulate, you should probably get 60 linear feet (we are also using Low-E (EZ-Cool) to make insulated window covers, so we went for 60 linear feet and we had to buy more later).


EZ Cool
A nice roll of Low-E (EZ-Cool)



  • Scissors



  • There’s nothing to see here.




It’s not very complicated, so we will keep this short and sweet.


Similar to Thinsulate, we used 3M 90 Spray Adhesive on metal surfaces. For installation over the Thinsulate, we used the aluminum tape included with the Low-E (EZ-Cool).


We really let go on the Low-E EZ-COOL pictures… here is what we have :




On second thought, we should have take more pictures of the Low-E (EZ-Cool) installation!!




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Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017 we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers and moved into our self built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!




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38 thoughts on “Low-E Insulation (formerly EZ-Cool) Installation”

  1. You mentioned in your window covering post that the EZ cool has some signal blocking issues. Do you think that is just over the windows or do you think it’s also hurting your signal because it’s on the walls of the van as well?


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