Bedroom Storage

Bed Storage Van Conversion Final

Bedroom Storage

Here is how we built the bedroom storage for our Ford Transit DIY camper van conversion!

A long time ago, we brainstormed about our Living Requirements. From that moment it was obvious that, to prevent a mess, we would need a lot of storage compartments so each thing has it’s own designated place. We then built the bed storage and lived happily ever after.



TIME SPENT ON THE JOB: ~30 hours (This is approximate. We lost track of time…)


TOTAL COST : 150$ USD approx.



DISCLOSURE: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc), we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not.












This is not a “How-To”;  this is a “How-We-Did”. It is the answer of our own requirements and using our own (limited) skills.


First of all, we designed the bed storage using our 3D CAD model:
Some fine-tuning is still required, but we get the picture. See our interactive 3D model here.

Here we go!

First of all, we added a layer of Low-E EZ-Cool on top of the Thinsulate (check our Thinsulate Installation Post or Buy on Ebay). This is to ensure there is no thermal bridge between the storage wood & the van metal. We did not glue the EZ-Cool to the van, since the storage back panel will hold it in place uniformly.

Adding some EZ-Cool.


Bed Storage Van Conversion (13)
Some cutouts were added in the EZ-Cool to let the Thinsulate breathe.


Then, the 1/4″ thick baltic birch plywood back panels were fitted and secured using Cross Nut that we previously installed in existing holes in the van.

Bed Storage Van Conversion (14)

Bed Storage Van Conversion (15)


Not familiar with Cross Nut? That’s O.K.! Make yourself comfortable and read our Cross Nut post:


Next, we trimmed and fitted the dividers. They are made from 1/2″ thick baltic birch.

(3/8″ thick would have been strong enough, but then screws don’t grip well in 3/8″ thick plywood)

Bed Storage Van Conversion (5)

Bed Storage Van Conversion (8)

Bed Storage Van Conversion (12)


Before installing the dividers “permanently”, we added the pocket holes that will be used to attached the face frame:

Bed Storage Van Conversion (16)


To make the pocket holes, we used the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Mini as it makes the job easy and provide strong joints without fancy tools!
Buy it on Amazon
Choose the correct screw length. Click on image to enlarge.


The forward divider contains the Bogart battery Monitor and the Webasto MultiControl:



So before assembling all the dividers, we fitted and added some protection for the monitor and the controller:

Bed Storage Van Conversion (17) Bed Storage Van Conversion (18)


We installed the dividers in place and fabricated the shelves from 3/8″ thick baltic birch plywood. Then, the shelves were installed with the corner braces. Tadam!

Now, we’ve been advocating to glue everything to eliminate the squeaks. For this project, we chose not to use glue. Why? Because, who knows, we might want to remove the storage one day. As a whole, we doubt it will be possible to remove it since it is quite large. So, we assembled all the dividers and shelves using corner braces. The assembled unit is very strong, but we wonder if the screws will hold in time with the vibration? Will it squeaks? Time will tell!


Next step, the face frame.

It is built from 1″x 2″ select pine (no knots). We used pocket holes & Titebond III wood glue to hold everything together.

Because we’re fancy people with fancy taste, we plugged the pocket holes with Kreg’s Plugs:

Bed Storage Van Conversion (19)
Glue, insert, sand.  But Buy on Amazon first.


Cabinet Frame with dimensions
The finished face frame (along with some dimensions), ready to be stained.


We will probably install doors at some point, but we have other priorities for now.


Bed Storage Van Conversion Final







As mentioned in the post, we did not use glue. Time will tell if we get squeaks and if some screws come loose. We will keep you updated!





  • Have a beer
  • Fabricate and install the Sink & Stove Cabinet (wait for it!)





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Hello! We’re Isabelle and Antoine 🙂 In 2017 we sold our house (and everything in it), quit our engineering careers and moved into our self built campervan. We’ve been on the road since then and every day is an opportunity for a new adventure; we’re chasing our dreams and hopefully it inspires others to do the same!




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8 thoughts on “Bedroom Storage”

  1. Thanks so much for such a helpful post. We’re thinking of doing something similar in our 1967 Airstream renovation along both sides of a bottom queen sized bed, on top of which will be narrow bunks for our kids. I’m curious how deep your built the shelves and if you have been happy with the depth? Also, have you put on doors and/or do things fall out without doors?

    • They’re about 14″ deep at the bottom, 11″ deep on top (van is curved!). We don’t have doors and things are not falling off (but that will depend on what you store there. Packed clothes don’t move)!

  2. Hey Atoine,
    Perhaps this is in an upcoming blog post :). But I was curious how you affixed your ceiling and wood panel walls to the van? I noticed in several of your pictures you have what appears to be very thin wood furring. Would you mind sharing what material, and how it’s fixed to the van walls? I’m starting to frame out my walls and ceilings for future attachments still figuring out the best way. I have plus nuts installed all over the walls so far!
    Thanks for our thoughts!

    • Hi Andrew, we’re working on the blog post but here is the draft if that can help you:

      The wood paneling is not attached directly to the van; it’s attached to frames that we first installed. We put frames every 2 feet or so, depending on what was possible. As usual, we did not use metal screws; we used Plusnut to attach the frames to the van walls. Not familiar with Plusnut? That’s fine, we made an article about them here!

      *pic and link to plusnut


      The frames are made from Baltic Birch Plywood; it is a high-quality plywood. For the same thickness as regular plywood, there are more layers and the material characteristics are more uniform.

      It was super important for us to maximize the living area, therefore we did not want to “overdesign” the frames. It made the fabrication of the frames & the installation of the paneling much more time consuming, but we’re very glad we did it.

      The frames are generally 4” wide.  We used ½” thickness plywood for the ceiling, 3/8” thickness plywood for almost-flat surfaces of the walls and ¼” thickness* plywood where we wanted the paneling to conform to the van curvatures.

      *Time for a disclaimer! ¼” Baltic birch plywood is THIN! Will it withstand the test of time? We think so, but if you choose the do the same, do it at your own risks! ¼” “regular” plywood is probably not strong enough (it will probably crack at screw locations). If you’re using the van as a cargo or if you plan on attaching heavy stuff to the wall, ¼” is probably not strong enough.




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